1996 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS 2.0L idles runs for about 15 minutes then quits....Help!! - Mitsubishi Forum

phils06gt · #1 04-15-2012, 10:35 AM

I recently purchased a 96 Eclipse for my daughter as her first car. I knew it had a problem when I first bought it. At first I thought it was the fuel pump, especially when I removed the pump and it looked like it had a layer of mud on it (so did the tank) from sitting. So, I replaced the tank and the pump (and strainer along with new fuel filter). It started much easier now, but, after about 10 -15 minutes of running, it sort of sputters out and dies. After it does this, it refuses to start back up until you wait around an hour or so. After you wait, it will start back up, but has a slight miss, which eventually works itself out, but the engine, although it seems to idle properly, it will vibrate (weird). So when all of the happens, I pull codes and get a 12, 11, and 55. The check engine light will stay on.

After looking up code 11, it looks like a crankshaft or camshaft position sensor. What is the more likely of the two, or could it be the Engine Control Computer?

Please advise.

Thanks.

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bigmike2112 · #2 04-15-2012, 01:07 PM

Sounds like a bad brain to me, if I were you i would ignore the check engine codes for now. Get it into a trusty shop, have them check it out and tell you whats wrong before you empty your wallet on it, if the ECM is bad, you can find a refurbished one online for reasonable a price. I wouldnt go to the dealer...

phils06gt · #3 04-15-2012, 09:37 PM

Code 11 states translates into a failing crankshaft position sensor....So how can I tell if it is the ECM or the CPS? The CPS is much cheaper to replace....

bigmike2112 · #4 04-15-2012, 11:14 PM

You can give it a shot if you like, i had an ECM go bad on a 98 sebring I had, needless to say I dropped about $1500 in it just to find out the problem was the ECM. It was showing false Check Engine codes, and it was doing the exact same thing your car does, shuts down, wont start back up for 30 mins to an hour. Thats why I say pay the 50-100 bucks to get a in depth diagnostic test done. Choice is yours.

phils06gt · #5 04-17-2012, 01:09 PM

Ok, not much to speak of other than I went to buy a new crank sensor in the off chance that it may fix the engine cutting off problem. Well, I went to replace it yesterday to find that the original connector plug does not fit into the new sensor. I brought it back to Autozone, they looked it up and even brought out another one, same thing. WTF? So, I had them look up the one for the year of the engine and found that it calls for the same part number for the Crankshaft Position Sensor. So, off to Orielly Auto Parts I go. They look up the sensor, same thing, wrong connector. However, the guy I was talking to decided to look it up on Borg Warner's site (BWD), and what to my wondering eyes should appear? The new sensor required a new plug that replaces the old one on the car's harness. So, they order the BWD sensor, $63.99 and the connector kit, $25.00). I picked them up today and will be installing them tonight. Should be fun. I will make a report later on how it does.

Thanks,

Phil

phils06gt · #6 04-18-2012, 10:27 AM

Ok, I got the new sensor wired in and tested her out last night. It started right up (had the battery unplugged all night prior to this) and seemed to run fine. The only thing is that the check engine light is still on and code check using the key method revealed Code 11 again. The car no longer cuts out, but now, with the CEL and code 11, I am leaning toward Cam Position Sensor as well. I will try that next. I disconnected the battery again this morning and will start her up again this evening to do a dry and wet compression test.

At least she no longer cuts out!! :-)