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  #1  
Old 01-17-2007, 07:21 PM
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Salinas,Ca
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Default clutch pedal+ master cylinder

ok so i just replaced my clutch master cylinder because my clutch has a problem as to where the pedal wont come back up.
ok so the problem is still happening and now i noticed that when i press down the clutch pedal with or without it connected up to the master cylinder it doesnt come back up... is it supposed to be doing this? also how can i adjust the clutch
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1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse Gst Spyder
K&N Cold Air
Evo 3 big16G
3' Catback Exhaust
AEM big brake kit
Adjustable Coil overs
Yellow Submarine
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  #2  
Old 01-17-2007, 07:43 PM
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Default RE: clutch pedal+ master cylinder

first, we have no idea what you're driving.

secondly, it sounds like you havent properly bled the system.
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  #3  
Old 01-17-2007, 08:18 PM
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Location: Austin, TX
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Default RE: clutch pedal+ master cylinder

Spyder GST.

Ok all you need to do is top up the clutch fluid reservoir and remove the cap... and have someone pump the clutch pedal and someone watch for bubbles from the reservoir... once the bubbles stop.. (no bubbles after 10 pumps of the clutch) then it should be ok.

Now if that does not work then you have a hydraulic problem... and i would look for a leak of some kind.

You can adjust the pedal only from the mechnism itself. There should be a bolt near the clutch pedal that limits how far it can go down..
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  #4  
Old 01-17-2007, 08:52 PM
 
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Default RE: clutch pedal+ master cylinder

ok so yeah ive replaced my slave cylinder about 2 months ago, and with this new cylinder the clutch doesnt engage at all.
when we bled the clutch we never saw any bubbles coming up, though the fluid level did go down. So if i did have a leak, how would i go about looking for it?
also i bleed the lines from the slave cylinder right?
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1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse Gst Spyder
K&N Cold Air
Evo 3 big16G
3' Catback Exhaust
AEM big brake kit
Adjustable Coil overs
Yellow Submarine
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  #5  
Old 01-17-2007, 09:09 PM
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Default RE: clutch pedal+ master cylinder

Yeah i believe so. The only way to look for a leak would be to follow the hydraulic lines all the way to the master cylinder.
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  #6  
Old 01-17-2007, 09:28 PM
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Default RE: clutch pedal+ master cylinder

if you installed a new master and cant get fluid into it, theres a good chance you have the pushrod completely misadjusted.
it needs to be FULLY released when the pedal is at it normal (up) position. And misadjustment will push the pushrod in, and both block of the feed from the reservoir, and prevent complete release of the pressure (assuming you can actually develope pressure).
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  #7  
Old 01-17-2007, 09:52 PM
 
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Default RE: clutch pedal+ master cylinder

ok so what im seeing now is that i cant deveople pressure in the lines could it be the resevour inbetween the master and slave cylinder.
also if i wanted to bleed everything out of the lines would that be a problem or was that what iwas supposed to do?
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1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse Gst Spyder
K&N Cold Air
Evo 3 big16G
3' Catback Exhaust
AEM big brake kit
Adjustable Coil overs
Yellow Submarine
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  #8  
Old 01-18-2007, 09:52 AM
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Default RE: clutch pedal+ master cylinder

Quote:
ORIGINAL: Simss

ok so what im seeing now is that i cant deveople pressure in the lines could it be the resevour inbetween the master and slave cylinder.
also if i wanted to bleed everything out of the lines would that be a problem or was that what iwas supposed to do?
Here's some RRE info..
Quote:
Clutch Adjustment
Every time the clutch or flywheel gets replaced the clutch needs to be adjusted. Many people assume incorrectly that since it is a hydraulic system that it does not need adjustment or that it does not need adjustment. Wrong. You want a little free play off the floor before the clutch begins to grab. You also will need a little free play at the top of the pedal travel.
Also...
Yeah bud, you're supposed to bleed the lines anytime you replace any of the components. As for the where the issue lies...it can be anywhere to be honest with you. It could be a bad cylinder(s) or their internals, it could be bad lines, it could be the pushrods like what Manybrews stated, it could even be a bracket that holds part of the line in place, lol. See my what I'm saying? Do you still have rubber lines or have they been changed to steel braided lines?
Follow the lines from the master around to the slave cylinder and look for leaks. Really look for them too, use a flashlight to help you and take your time now or it may take forever to find the issue. Have someone pump the clutch (with the resevoir filled) and check for bulging too (if you still have rubber lines).
I'm going with a bad master and possible slave. Did you find the cheapest slave and master cylinder?

Quote:
Click the image to open in full size.
Hydraulics. The pressure in the hydraulic system causes wear every time you press on the clutch pedal. The worn off pieces of rubber show up as black junk in the hydraulic fluid. If you are having difficulty with your clutch adjustment, check it out. If you pull the slave cylinder boot back and fluid comes out, the slave cylinder is dead. If your slave cylinder is dead, the master cylinder has also taken the same amount of abuse. You really should replace them both at the same time.
Here's where I got this info from... http://www.roadraceengineering.com/c...ywheeltech.htm

Here's more info for you...
- http://www.miata.net/garage/mastercyl.html
- http://ca.dsm.org/FAQ/2g-clutch-fcu.html

Quote:
Original: Strm Trpr

[/align] [/align] [/align] [/align]
How to properly bleed your hydraulic clutch [/align] [hr] This method of clutch bleeding will work on pretty much any car.
Forget about what the manuals tell you!

First off you'll need the following:

1) Goggles or other form of eye protection to prevent brake fluid from splashing into your eyes.
2) Get a clutch pedal buddy, a person that can push the clutch pedal in and hold it to the floor, and then lift the pedal off of the floor on command.
3) Jack stands and a jack so you can properly support the front of your vehicle while you bleed the system.
4) Brake fluid, and a pan of some sort to catch brake fluid as you bleed the system.
---I like to use a length of hose that fits snuggly onto the bleeder screw hose barb of the slave cylinder and then position the other end of the hose in a mason jar filled about 2 inches deep with brake fluid.
---This will prevent air from entering the slave cylinder when you are bleeding the Master Cylinder.
5) You'll need some rags handy just in case you spill some brake fluid. Remember, brake fluid is very corrosive, it will damage skin, eyes, paint etc...
6) Last but not least, a 10mm Flare Nut Wrench, this is a must, without it, you will round off your bleeder screw hex if the bleeder screw is on tight.

Procedure:
1) Properly support the front of the vehicle on jack stands.
2) Install Clutch Pedal Buddy in driver's seat. (DO NOT PUMP THE PEDAL AT ALL THROUGHOUT THIS ENTIRE PROCESS).
3) Remove Master Cylinder Reservoir Lid.
4) Top off reservoir with brake fluid.
5) Next, you'll be opening and closing the Slave Cylinder Bleeder Screw.

CAUTION: Protect your eyes from squirting brake fluid.

6) (Helper) Press clutch pedal in fully to the floor and hold.
7) (You) Open the bleed screw to allow fluid to flow.
8) (You) Close bleed screw.
9) (Helper) Release clutch pedal. You may have to pick the pedal up off of the floor, do this slowly and smoothly all the way up.
10) Repeat steps 6-9 two times, and then top off the reservoir.
11) Repeat steps 6-9 three more times, and then top off the reservoir.
12) You're not done yet, but you just bled the master cylinder and the hydraulic line, next you have to bleed the slave cylinder. (This is what the manuals don't tell you).
13) There will be no further action needed with the clutch pedal, so remover your Clutch Pedal Buddy from the driver's seat.
14) Make sure the reservoir is topped off.
15) Now, you're about to properly bleed the slave cylinder.
16) Place a pan or equal under the slave cylinder bleed screw, and completely remove the bleed screw from the slave cylinder body.
13) Your helper should have the bleed screw and a wrench ready to tighten the bleed screw into the slave cylinder.
Please remember to protect your eyes and those of your buddy's.
14) With the bleed screw removed, firmly press and hold the slave cylinder push rod into the body of the slave cylinder. Yes you read it right, push the rod into the slave cylinder and hold it.
15) Be careful, as soon as you push that rod back into the slave cylinder, it will and without remorse squirt brake fluid onto anything within reach.
16) Have your buddy reinstall the bleed screw and tighten it with the flare nut wrench all the while you're still holding the push rod in.
17) Once the bleed screw is tight, release the rod and as it comes out, guide it into the proper position on the clutch arm.
18) Work your clutch pedal a couple of times, and notice that your reservoir is filled right up to the Max Fill Line.
19) Install reservoir lid, lower the car, and give a test drive....[/align]
Hope something up there helps.
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John
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  #9  
Old 01-18-2007, 02:59 PM
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Salinas,Ca
Posts: 182
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Default RE: clutch pedal+ master cylinder

cool yeah man that helps, looks like we were bleeding it wrong. so ill go try this out this morning
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1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse Gst Spyder
K&N Cold Air
Evo 3 big16G
3' Catback Exhaust
AEM big brake kit
Adjustable Coil overs
Yellow Submarine
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Old 01-18-2007, 02:59 PM
 
 
 
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back, bleeder, clutch, cylinder, eclipse, floor, gst, lift, master, mirage, mitsubishi, pedal, photo, problem, screw, slave


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