Car Dying on Idle
#1
Car Dying on Idle
Ok, so here's another question for everyone. I have noticed lately that my car seems to want to die out (occasionally) if I hold in the clutch, not so much when it idles in neutral though. I have adjusted the idle through DSMLink to 1000rpm and it idles fine there, it's just when I push in the clutch after driving or reving the engine, and the idle drops down past 1000rpm almost to 500rpm sometimes and then raises back up to the 1000rpm mark. But as you can tell sometimes when it drops below the 1000rpm mark it goes so low to where it kills the engine. I have not checked the alternator, however I highly doubt that is my problem, and as for the battery, well its strong when I go to crank over the engine after it dies so I'm just not sure. Now it doesn't do this ALL the time but enough to where it's annoying, so I really want to fix this. I could obvioulsy raise my idle, but I'd rather not do that, Id like to pin point the problem.
So...any suggestions?
So...any suggestions?
#2
RE: Car Dying on Idle
Ok, I just got back from lunch and realized something, the car idled at 1500rpm when I pushed the clutch down. So something is seriously not right, it only idled at 1500rpm for a short while because when I pulled baclk into work it idled back at 1000rpm. If anyone has any suggestions please let me know, cause this is really bothering me. The car is idling at 1000rpm, 1500rpm, and dropping below 500rpm when the clutch is pressed sometimes. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Thanks.
#8
RE: Car Dying on Idle
Here's something I just came across, I might go through these in the next couple days to mark them off the possible problems list . . .
Question
I have a 95 eclipse 2.0 n-t, GS manual, when we bought the car, it had been parked for almost two years with a broken timing belt, and a busted head gasket, replaced head, new timing belt, new plugs, and wires, and ignition coil.(about three weeks ago)then was having problems with the car dying when you pressed the brakes or stop at a red light( unless you would press the gas )It would do this a few times and then it would run fine and sometimes the engine light would come on, and then sometimes it wouldn't. We changed the fuel filter, and now it's not wanting to stay running, when it's cold, it will crank right up, and run for about 1 or 2 minutes, then die and won't crank right up(it's not firing every time, then all of a sudden it will fire, crank, but then after a few seconds it will die and then you have to crank about 10-20 times and it will crank, and then die. now the engine light comes on. we were told to check the camshaft position sensor, or the pickup coil, but the repair manual doesn't show where it is located on this car, and we can't seem to find it. or could it be the fuel pump going bad? Any suggestions would be greatly appriciated. Thanks
Answer
KC,
The camshaft position sensor (which is also the crankshaft position sensor) is located on the passanger side of the valve cover. Here's a picture you can use as a reference:
http://90gsx.com/eclipse/timing/cam.jpg
Your manual may be referring to it as the crankshaft angle sensor. It's the same sensor.
Other items you'll want to inspect are your Idle Speed Control (ISC) motor, your Fast Idle Air Valve (FIAV), your Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor, your Throttle Position Sensor (TPS), your Mass Air Sensor (MAS), your alternator, and your fuel pump. I would suspect it's one or more of your sensor causing the problem. The ISC, FIAV, TPS, MAS, and ECT are all effected by engine temperature change. As the engine temp increases, those values and sensor adjust to keep your idle stable. If one or more of those are faulty, you'll get that stalling problem you described as your engine warms up. Check those out and hopefully you'll find the cause to your problem.
Good luck!
Question
I have a 95 eclipse 2.0 n-t, GS manual, when we bought the car, it had been parked for almost two years with a broken timing belt, and a busted head gasket, replaced head, new timing belt, new plugs, and wires, and ignition coil.(about three weeks ago)then was having problems with the car dying when you pressed the brakes or stop at a red light( unless you would press the gas )It would do this a few times and then it would run fine and sometimes the engine light would come on, and then sometimes it wouldn't. We changed the fuel filter, and now it's not wanting to stay running, when it's cold, it will crank right up, and run for about 1 or 2 minutes, then die and won't crank right up(it's not firing every time, then all of a sudden it will fire, crank, but then after a few seconds it will die and then you have to crank about 10-20 times and it will crank, and then die. now the engine light comes on. we were told to check the camshaft position sensor, or the pickup coil, but the repair manual doesn't show where it is located on this car, and we can't seem to find it. or could it be the fuel pump going bad? Any suggestions would be greatly appriciated. Thanks
Answer
KC,
The camshaft position sensor (which is also the crankshaft position sensor) is located on the passanger side of the valve cover. Here's a picture you can use as a reference:
http://90gsx.com/eclipse/timing/cam.jpg
Your manual may be referring to it as the crankshaft angle sensor. It's the same sensor.
Other items you'll want to inspect are your Idle Speed Control (ISC) motor, your Fast Idle Air Valve (FIAV), your Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor, your Throttle Position Sensor (TPS), your Mass Air Sensor (MAS), your alternator, and your fuel pump. I would suspect it's one or more of your sensor causing the problem. The ISC, FIAV, TPS, MAS, and ECT are all effected by engine temperature change. As the engine temp increases, those values and sensor adjust to keep your idle stable. If one or more of those are faulty, you'll get that stalling problem you described as your engine warms up. Check those out and hopefully you'll find the cause to your problem.
Good luck!
#10
RE: Car Dying on Idle
No I have not turned the BISS yet, I will most likely turn the idle back down to 800rpm from the computer and then adjust the BISS after that. That was actually going to be my next step believe it or not, I just havent gotten to it. I will try that tonight after work and let you know the outcome.
But one other thing, if I have it set at 1000rpm through the computer and it idles there, what would cause it to idle at 1500rpm periodically when I hold in the clutch or go into neutral?
But one other thing, if I have it set at 1000rpm through the computer and it idles there, what would cause it to idle at 1500rpm periodically when I hold in the clutch or go into neutral?
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