i was wondering where you would hook up the sending unit for an mechinical oil pressure gauge. where is there a pressure port on the engine where you would hook up the sending unit for the gauge? thanks

 

Pulled this from another site...

Oil Pressure gauge installation
You will need the gauge (make sure it can read a minimum of 100psi - you would be amazed by how much pressure our engines put out at cold startup!) and its associated tubing, another tubing kit (yes, you will need this one since I choose a longer path for the tubing), a 1/8inch coupling to join the ends of the tubings, a 1/8inch female NPT pipe tee, a 1/8inch union (its a short male-male piece of pipe), a 1/8 inch - 27 NPT tap and die (to clean and shape couplings that do not fit right - you can also use a 1/8inch -28 BPT tap and die, in a pinch), some red Loctite, some high quality gasket making silicone and lots of paper towels. BTW, the best time to do this is when you are doing an oil change and have drained out all the old oil but have not yet filled the car up.

Needless to say, this gauge is a little more involved to install, so allow lots of time - we do not want any leaks. First, jack up the car and remove the front left wheel. Remove the inside cover and you will now be staring at the crank and the OEM electric pressure gauge.

This gauge can be removed with a wrench and set aside. Take your tee and assemble you male-male union to one side of the run (use Loctite here) but do not tighten all the way just firmly tighten for now - read on and you will see. Add the oil tubing coupling to the other side of the run also with Loctite. Clean and dry the old hole of the sending unit, apply some silicone to the end of the male-male union and thread your assembly (the tee, male-male union, and oil tubing coupling) into the hole. Now, as the assembly begins to tighten, the goal is to end up with the branch of the tee facing directly down so that we can install the OEM sending unit in it. Generally, one of the sides of the male-male union will give enough so that you can achieve this - if you are concerned about leakage, skip the silicone and use Loctite - but prepared for a bear if you want to remove this later.

As indicated, add the OEM sending unit to the tee's branch and connect its electrical connection. Check that the assembly will be clear from any moving or hot parts. Attach the oil tubing to its coupling (using care not to twist, kink, or damage it). (NOTE: I choose the following route since I did not like routing a line near my drive shaft - you may choose to do so, just make sure to tie everything with lots of tie wraps, allow slack for engine movement and make sure the line cannot touch any hot or moving thing!!! )

Now route the tubing so that it loops under the assembly, going towards the front of the car. Come up the near corner of engine well, attaching to the power steering cooler lines and route your tubing towards the firewall. Somewhere around here your tubing will not be long enough, so pick a convenient spot, cut off the remainder and attach the coupling to add on the new tubing line. (Don't forget to choose a spot where you can tie wrap firmly down the coupling!) Route your tubing through the firewall allowing lots of slack inside the car.

Now we must try to bleed out as much air out the line as we can. Get a container (like an empty oil bottle), and while holding the line inside the container start the car. As soon as oil comes out the line (watch for splash!), turn off the engine. Clean the end of the line, attach the gauge coupling and gauge. Go back and check for leaks, adding tie wraps where needed (keep line away for moving and hot things!!!!) It goes without saying that you should route the line inside the car towards your final position of the gauge.

Lights can be hooked up similarly like the boost gauge description above.

You should also have a small container in which to lay the gauge when you first try it out so as to check and catch any oil leaks (no nasty, hot oil inside our cars!).

Finally, double check everything for a few days to assure that no leaks have developed - a leak here can pump your engine dry in less than you think! (You may want to carry a quart or two of oil in your trunk for a while)