HELP! 95 Eclipse Mystery O-rings and Motor Mount Madness

[Eclipse440]

95 Eclipse 420a - automatic transmission - 78k miles Replacing the timing set including tensioner, pulleys, belt, water pump and front cam and crank seals. All motor mounts, oil pan, gasket valve cover gasket, water outlet gaskets, Trans filter...etc..... Mysterious o-rings.... Front cam seal sets I bought (fel-pro TCS 45961) each came with a press in seal and a large blue o-ring. Question.... where do the blue o-rings go? I see a front cam seal for each cam but no place for a big blue o-ring. Is the blue o-ring for the rear cam sensor seal? Its pouring outside so I cant check now but I think the o-ring is too big for that. ******* UPDATE 05/02/12 I took the cam sensor off and the blue o-ring IS the cam sensor seal. The fel pro gasket set is labeled FRONT Camshaft seal but come with that rear seal also. Since theres only one cam sensor and you need 2 kits...u'll end up with one extra cam sensor 0-ring. MORE Mysterious o-rings.... My crankshaft front seal set (fel-pro TCS 45962) comes with a press in crankshaft seal PLUS 3 rubber rings. 2 thin o-rings and a 3rd rubber seal. From my service manual diagram I see where one of the 3 might go...assuming I remove the oil pump which I might do just to re-seal it since its 15yrs old but where do the other 2 o-rings go? (SEE PHOTO BELOW) ************************************************** ******************* **UPDATE** ALL O-RINGS IDENTIFIED after talking to FelPro. Crank seal - Oil Pump to block o-ring - Oil pump pickup - oil filter adapter to block ************************************************** ******************* MOTOR MOUNT MADNESS!!!!!!!!!!!! MAD MAD MAD I TELL YOU!!!! I ordered all 4 mounts from Rockauto. The front mount was correct...but unfortunately that was the only one! Part was Anchor 8670. The Passenger side motor mount I ordered was anchor 9198. It fits the engine aluminum bracket but the hole in the motor mounts rubber donut is 3/8" lower than original. I re-ordered a different part. This time a DEA4601 which clearly showed a photo of the bolt in the center of the donut...BUT... In the box....another 9198 and again...3/8" lower bolt hole than stock! DEA says its boxed correctly! So the photo on their site (which Rock auto uses too) doesn't match what you're getting. Drivers side (trans) mount. Beck Arnley part number 104-1902 and the bolt hole was also....drum roll....3/8" lower than stock! Not to mention the casting on that mount isnt great either. Lots of pits from where air surfaced as the casting cooled. Makes me a bit apprehensive about trapped air perhaps weakening the casting and its not machine finished to relieve stress or even help it sit a little flatter. Doesn't make sense to send it back bcus the only alternative is the Anchor part which does look nicer in the photo on Rock Auto BUT for double the price I'd be getting the same WRONG rubber insert with the hole 3/8" lower than stock. Rear trans mount is wrong too. DEA part number 4604 listed for a 420a Eclipse w/auto trans and DEA is boxing a part stickered 6662a which is actually the Manual trans mount. Their photos are messed up tho bcus the photo of the manual mount is actually the auto mount! They say the photos are right and the part is boxed correctly...but I know what I removed from the car and it's different. Im the original owner and its never been changed. The manual trans mount has a filled rubber donut with a bolt hole in the center instead of the correct auto trans version which has a dog bone rubber insert and a bolt hole in the center. The manual trans version they sent fits but Im a little concerned the filled rubber center may transmit more vibration than the original style mount. Mitsubishi made two different style mounts for a reason ...just as they had a reason for mounting the engine at the height they did and not 3/8" lower like the L/R mounts I'm getting. In addition... that wrong rear mount I received had a manufacturing defect! A nice V shaped split on top (SEE PHOTO BELOW) which will eventually travel to the edge and the mount will fail. Rock Auto had DEA drop ship me another mount. The replacement... Same wrong mount with similar damage but a much smaller V split. It should be ok tho as long as it doesn't transmit vibrations since its the wrong mount. Prothane inserts not a good choice. The bolt holes are centered but from what I've read on a few forums those who have tried them on daily drivers removed them and went back to rubber due to too much vibration. ************************************************** ********************** ***UPDATE 5/02/12 - I looked at it again and have come up with a much better solution. Raising Driver side mount fender bracket holes is all that needs done on that side.. Just grind out the top of the 2 mounting bracket holes in the inner fender so theyre 3/8 higher than normal OR Then weld a washer over each hole 3/8 higher than orig hold to keep the bolt 3/8 higher. On the passenger side I can raise 1 of the 2 holes by grinding but will likely need to cut the nut off the body bracket from inside the wheel well and re-locate it 3/8 higher. Any hints on o-ring locations for those kits and suggestions for proper mounts other than the 2x -3xmore expensive mitsubishi made mounts appreciated. Thanks in advance Dave photos below of the seals /o-rings in question... Manufacturing defect in the rear mount. Replacement was much better but still had some damage. 3/8 difference in drivers trans mount (pass side not shown) Poor casting of drivers trans mount.

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[Eclipse440]

Guess not many ppl frequenting this forum or have no answer but i solved it on my own and edited the original post in case anyone looks for this topic via search engine in the future.

Updates above included

**** ALL O-RINGS IDENTIFIED after talking to FelPro. Crank seal - Oil Pump to block o-ring - Oil pump pickup - oil filter adapter to block

***********
UPDATE 5/02/12 - I looked at it again and have come up with a much better solution. Raising Driver side mount fender bracket holes is all that needs done on that side.. Just grind out the top of the 2 mounting bracket holes in the inner fender so theyre 3/8 higher than normal OR Then weld a washer over each hole 3/8 higher than orig hold to keep the bolt 3/8 higher. On the passenger side I can raise 1 of the 2 holes by grinding but will likely need to cut the nut off the body bracket from inside the wheel well and re-locate it 3/8 higher.