ok, so i just ended up getting a 97 eclipse GS-T already moded. previous owner told me that the engine is from a 95 eagle talon TSI. Mods include percision T3/T4 turbo system, larger injectors, fuel pump, fuel pump relay, and an apexi SAFC2. when i got the car it was ideling rough/ sometimes dying when you applied the clutch and came to a stop while driving. the engine had some oil leaks and coolant leaks and needed plugs and wires. obviously running rich because the plugs looked new, but where pitch black on the tips. i decided to fix all the leaks and tune up before i even drove the car. after getting all the vaccume lines fixed and fluid leaks fixed its time to get into getting the car running right. this is where i have no experience. i am a certified gm mechanic, so actually duing repairs is no problem, but i have always been a muscle car v8 guy, and never hade a forced induction vehicle. when the vehicle idles, it is between 250 and 800 rpm and pretty jumpy. it runs extreamly rich, to the point of burning eyes driving down the road. as far as crusing down the road it runs really well. as soon as you go to make a pull, in any gear, when the boost starts building and kicking in it starts popping and falls on its face. i dont have a wideband on the car yet, i know its needed for tuning but just waiting on the funds. i can adjust the fuel trims with the safc and it definatly makes a difference on how it idles, but to get a smooth 800 or so idle, i am set to +10 for fuel. and i can tell its rich. again, i am new to DSM's and forced induction and tuning, so any help is much appreaciated. also there isnt a dyno tune shop within 8 hrs from where i am at.

 

timing. And timing advance.

 

much appreicated, from what i can tell the timing is good, vehicle is holding 17-20 inlbs of vacuume at idle and its steady. with the safc i dont think that i can adjust timing, what will i need to adjust it?

 

safc is a maf sender yeah? That interrupts/changes signal to ecu..
Google how to tune one.

Check fuel pressure at the rail and check injector function.
Do a comp test.

Id start with a battery disconnect o/night to reset all electrickery. See how that goes..

 

re reading your op,
set the saf so you have idle.
Overgap your plugs or go hotter, and however your timing is done, advance it.

 

further edit.

*Remove the safc.*

Im guessing the seller was a boy racer dweeb and trying to compensate for off-timing with more fuel. Theres a long technical explanation, google flame front to find it.

Answer: * your timing is off. Fix it.*

 

just got done checking my timing. timing is dead nuts where factory specs say it should be. should i have to adjust it from here? as far as the safc, if removed will the computer adjust for the larger turbo, injectors, and pump??? also the only other thing i noticed is that the forward o2 sensor is flatlined at 0mV other than that i am getting air flow readings and everything looks to be in order. thanks again for your input.

 

check that o2. Replace.
Within reason your ecu *should* calculate optimum conditions based on sensor input.
Ive never dealt with a safc, but from a quick google, its used to adjust mix by tricking ecu maf input.

was the motor factory turbo?
If not, those marks are irrelevant.
You want your timing advanced as far as possible, and your advance curve set relative to the spool up of the turby.
Unfortunately with electrics, this is probably a dyno shop job.

 

+ how about low fuel pressure?
Is the pump rated at/over the injectors?

 

as far as the engine being a factory turbo, he sais the engine was from a TSI, so it should be. o2 sensor is being replaced asap, i know it needs, but iv also never seen just an o2 sensor causing any issues like this. i can see however with the larger injectors and pump it could drasticaly make a difference. fuel pressure i havent really looked, simple enough though, gauge is under the hood. will check tomorow.