this is just going a little more indepth with upgrading for almost no money. Some are repeats, some are new.

i found this on some site, forgot where though.


Step 1: Hack Aircan and Intake Area
The stock aircan has a rather restrictive opening, as well as a restrictive path for the air to take. It's best to remove the aircan so that the filter is exposed. The better way to do it would be to buy a new filter system, but this is for the cheap folks.



Step 2: Clean Throttle Body
Using a throttle body or carb cleaner, clean the throttle plate and the inside of the throttle body. IMPORTANT: make sure to stuff a rag into the holes at the bottom of the TB, or the cleaner will get in there and kill the mechanisms down there. Then, use the can and a rag to clean it all out. When you're done with that, you can start the car with the intake pipe unplugged, and spray a can right into the throttle body. You can also spray the can into any line that sees vacuum at idle.


Step 3: Verify that WOT is 100%
With the car turned off, have someone sit in the car and floor the gas pedal, and then check to see if you can rotate the throttle plate any more by hand. If you can, it could be due to the cable being out of adjustment (adjust on the back of the intake manifold, 2 bolts) or something like a floor mat keeping the pedal from going all the way down. Fix this.


Step 4: Check IC outlet Pipe for Corrosion
The intercooler outlet pipe on the older cars has a tendency to corrode and leak out boost. Take the plastic fender liner off the car (take off passenger side wheel), take the intercooler out, and if it has ANY signs of corrosion, coat the entire upper pipe with JB weld. This is also a good time to:


Step 5: Open up the Fender Liner
You can use a sanding wheel (Dremel, die grinder, etc) to open up the vents in the fender liner behind the intercooler. Some people just cut it out and replace it with a screen/wire mesh, that works too. ALSO, make sure that you have the duct in front of the intercooler in place and that it seals up. While the intercooler is still out:


Step 6: Clean the Intercooler
Use a cleaner such as simple green, greased lightning, or gasoline to clean out the inside of the intercooler. It gets filled up with oil over time, which can reduce it's efficiency. Make sure to get it nice and clean, until the water and cleaner comes out clear. Let it dry out completely.


Step 7: Remove the BCS Restrictor
If you do not have a manual boost controller, you can safely up the boost about 1-2 psi by removing the restrictor in the boost control solenoid.
(An Example)


Step 8: Check Base Timing
Buy or borrow a timing light. Hook it up as per the instructions. Ground the black timing connector on the firewall behind the battery, and if you have a logger UNPLUG IT. Check to see that the base timing (crank pulley) is set at 5 degrees of advance. If not, loosen and rotate the crank angle sensor until it is.
(An Example)
(Another Example)


Step 9: Valve Cover Vent Breather
Replace the hose from the valve cover breather (left side of the valve cover) to the intake pipe with a simple breather filter and cap the intake pipe nipple. You can also use a catch can if you like. This keeps oil out of the intake pipes and the intercooler. If you want to do this even better, check out:
(An Example)


Step 10: Unplug Clutch Switch
Under the dash on the clutch pedal assembly, there is a switch that will only allow the car to be turned on if the clutch is pushed in. Just unplug this so that you can start the car without touching the clutch, it's better for the thrust bearing. The plug is on the front side of the clutch pedal assembly, so that it is only pressed when the clutch is all the way in.


Step 11: Pressure Test the Intake
This is one of the MOST CRUCIAL things you can do to make sure your car is runing properly! Does your car ever sputter, misfire, fuel cut, bog, idle badly, or smoke (black)under boost? It could be a boost leak! You need to build a pressure tester that will clamp onto the turbo and lt you use a bike pump or an air compressor to send pressure into the IC pipes and the manifold. ANY and ALL leaks should be fixed! The only thing I know of that should leak is the manual boost controller.
(An Example)

 

another dsm forum, and yes its all just general maintainence that should be done to any car before modding it

 

I took out the whole plastic piece that was between my stock intercooler and my tire, my turbo spools up so much faster and it has elimited so much of my turbo lag, tomorrow I'm going to take off my intercooler and clean it. any suggestions for the best way to clean it?

 

most jus take it out, and put some gas in it an shake it around. i dont really think its necessary and i never did though, but yea i have no idea why mitsu put the plastic pieces in front of the ic, almost as retarded as subaru putting a front mount right on top of a hot engine.

 

lol talk about cheap *** mods lol

 

Gas?
would water be Ok? could i take out the intercooler put some water in it and shake it around and spray the outside with water. I know it'll need to be fully dry before reinstalling.

 

um.. just curious how do you guys know this work, well the cleaning the IC with gas if you havent tryed it ,wouldn't the gasoline leave resdue on int.surface of IC

 

I would use gas. Your intercooler is going to be cloged with little bits of oil and grese and what knot. A basic rule of chemistry is "likes disolve into likes". Oil/grese are by products of oil... so is gas. Its basically just works as a degreaser. Plus gas will evaporate faster then water. If your worried about the drying time after run some brake cleaner through it(very fast dry time and displaces water).

 

[quote]ORIGINAL: PooT_Nation

Step 11: Pressure Test the Intake
This is one of the MOST CRUCIAL things you can do to make sure your car is runing properly! Does your car ever sputter, misfire, fuel cut, bog, idle badly, or smoke (black)under boost? It could be a boost leak! You need to build a pressure tester that will clamp onto the turbo and lt you use a bike pump or an air compressor to send pressure into the IC pipes and the manifold. ANY and ALL leaks should be fixed! The only thing I know of that should leak is the manual boost controller.
(An Example)

I don't know if it's true or not but don't the BTVs leak on most of the 2nd gen 4g63s? I was thinking of picking up a stock 1st gen one at a junkyard as a temporary fix but then I realized that the 14b on the 1st gens only produces something like 11psi while the 2nd gens t25 pumps out 14.8. Just wondering if they're the same thing and could handle the boost difference or if it would even hook up. I don't know much about the 1st gens other than they're generally supposed to have stronger engines overall. Wasn't sure if that applied to more than just the stupid crankwalk on the 2nd gens.

 

wow, I quoted that whole thing, thats cool i guess...