New here. Actually have a 2007 Outlander and 2011 Outlander Sport. Just picked up a used 2006 Eclipse GS. Have been fixing it up. Plugs, oil, transmission fluid, ps fluid swap, valve cover gasket, filters, brakes, etc. and some cosmetic repairs.

Am checking out the motor mounts now. The roll mounts are fine. Transmission mount looks good too.

The passenger side motor mount though is that funny one with a metal top. It almost appears like the motor weight would hang internally from this thing.

How would I tell (without taking it apart) if it is shot?

Right now, it appears there is a square rubber cap that goes over the end of the bracket that connects to the engine. This rubber cap is right under the motor mount. The rubber cap (with the bracket inside of it of course) is resting right on the car frame. There is a gap above it between it and the motor mount.

Is there supposed to be gap under the bracket rubber cap like the engine is suspended from the motor mount?

Thanks in advance for any help. I have been wrenching on cars for a long, long time and hopefully can return the favor around here!

 

rock the engine back and forth and watch for cracks in the rubber.

 

Thanks Akzle. The engine is solid from a front-back standpoint. The roll mounts are in really good shape. The passenger side mount is all metal on the outside. Can't see any rubber from the outside. The rubber and other parts are internal. At least from what I can see.

 

FYI, in case someone wants to google a similar part... the replacement for this in the Anchor brand is part number 9281. Looks like a little water tower!

 

OK. No answers here. Also cant seem to find anything on the "interwebs" anywhere.

So, I ordered a new mount. I will remove the old one and compare. Will report back here so that maybe the next person who wonders about the front right mount finds an answer.

 

Got the new mount. Is the Anchor version from Rock Auto.

Removed the old one (easy job to do). Did not visually see anything wrong with it. Nothing seemed torn or loose.

Installed the new mount and sure enough the engine sits just a little higher on the passenger side. There is roughly an 1/8" to 3/16" gap between the rubber boot that goes over the engine bracket arm (where connects to the mount) and the car frame.

I suppose the old mount was not broken, but was worn and had sagged over time.

What is interesting is that cabin vibrations at idle actually are more significant now... but feel different. The rubber in the new mount and it's general construction did not seem any different than the original. In fact, it looked and felt just like the original.

I am hoping that the new mount (along with the other mounts) need to settle into their own "happy place" as I drive the car for a few days. Right now the car is at home in the garage. Will try to remember to report back on this as well.

 

Got home tonight (car is in garage, not service) and loosened up the motor mount bolts a little. Same for the roll mount thru-bolts (PITA). Started the car and engaged reverse and drive. Gave it a little throttle while holding the brake. Both ways, a couple of times.

Shut the car off and torqued all the bolts. I could tell the bolt positions were slightly different. Just a little. Cranked the car back up and the vibrations are way better. The rest should smooth out I think after driving a little (will report back).

Also, car was idling around 500-600 rpm in D or R. That is about 100 rpm low on average. Cleaned the throttle body. Now, idle is about 600 to 700 RPM. This has also helped too.

 

Bad news. I finally got the car out of the garage and took it for a spin. The vibration came back with a vengeance. With the AC one at idle it was so bad I could not stand it.

Got home and popped the hood. The front of the engine was shaking like mad. Could not believe it. Almost looked like something was wrong with the engine.

Took the Anchor mount out and put the old one back in. This time, I shimmed the bottom of it using washers where the mount sits on the frame (3 locations including the rear bolt). Cranked the car back up... smooth as silk. The engine was not shaking at all. And the car felt great in all cases (idle, AC on/off, etc.).

Original mount does need to be replaced but has a little life left on it thanks to shimming (there is a small gap now under the rubber sleeve at the engine bracket).

Since I installed the Anchor mount, I know that I probably am going to eat the cost of it. That sucks. Will complain tomorrow at least.

Word to the wise though... don't use Anchor for a replacement of the passenger side mount unless you want your dental work to be rattled loose. Maybe I will cut this thing in half sometime to see what the hell is going on. I suspect it is nowhere near OEM design like they claim... and if so, I will go again at getting my money back if the complaint doesn't do it.

Take care all. Hope this thread helps someone out.

 

the mounts should be replaced in sets not one at a time

 

I agree mx. That is the right thing to do to avoid other mounts from failing and taking out new mounts... resulting a never-ending saga. Especially for the roll mounts.

But, in my opinion, it really does not explain the results. The shimmed old mount puts the engine in the exact same position as the new mount. The only difference then is the rigidity of the mount (the materials and construction of the mount itself).

The old mount works great. The new mount seems to attract/induce vibration (perhaps a harmonic frequency problem due to material/construction).

Will post more here if I ever find out more about this situation!