hey guys just got a new 04' Eclipse .....i want to puts some subs in it...just wondering if eny one has pics of a set up and/or some ideas of brands that are nice for a poor man .... thanks guys

i love thses things
Volfenhag (http://pics.sell2all.com/hd/ZX4812DVX.jpg)

http://www.edesignaudio.com/

http://www.dnaracing.net/teamdna_rides_jason0027.JPG

Volfenhag hu? Sorry to say it bro, but those are CRAP. Yeah, if you want half of what they say, and it to last half as long go ahead and buy crap like this off ebay for really cheap, but when it starts to make funny noises and not push power like it is supposed to, don't complain. Go buy some quality stuff like clarion or jl or eclipse. here it is on ebay...volfenhag amp. Peak at 2000w, but really it will only rms at 1000w. But then you have to divide it by 2, because there are 2 channels. When these amps are tested for power output, they are tested in a perfect environment with a monotone signal. thus meaning that you will not get 1/4 of the power that they say you will.
But don't listen to me...My job title is just "avation electronic technician." This pretty much says that I troubleshoot bad electronic components on the v-22 osprey for a living. I have taken some VERY advanced classes on electronics and I know my crap. I have BOOKS of schematics and wiring diagrams dealing with diodes, capacitors, inductors, transformers, all figuring out the relative voltages, current, power, and resistance. Also with all this I had to learn a lot of the number systems... Example: decimal (0-9), binary (0-1), octal (0-7), and also hexadecimal (0-F). Do you even know what a capacitor REALLY does? Well, if you don't I will explain. All a capacitor is, is a nonconducting material (dialectric material) between 2 conducting plates. It stores electrical energy in an electrostatic field within microseconds and can expell these charges for a duration of seconds. Okay, here is something else... how many types of bridged circuits are there? UMmmm let's see.... 2. A Balanced (wheatstone) bridge, and a unbalanced bridge.
You are probably getting tired of hearing me talk about all this stuff that you probably didn't know about, so whatever.....
DON'T buy volfenhag. I am warning you.
I find this point kinda funny....
get435 said that the airspace in my box is too much for my subwoofers. This statement is true, but also he just admitted that volfengag is a good brand. Well, My roomate has 2 volfengag subs with a 1600w amp. I find it kinda funny that my 300 watt alpine amp drives my subs HARDER then his 1600w amp on his stupid looking gay red subwoofers. He has been having problems with his, and let me remind you that he JUST got his stuff like 4 months ago. I have had my alpine stuff for 1-1/2 years now, and I have NEVER had a problem yet.
Hopefully you don't think I am a dick, and ignore everything I just said. In order to get good stuff, you have to pay more. It is the way that the electronic world works. If you want to know anymore, just post.
Thanks,
Jed Booth LCpl. USMC

m3kgt_99 I have two 10 inch alpine type e subwoofers. They are 600 peak and 200rms. I am having trouble finding a amp that will just slightly underpower them so I dont blow them. What amp would you recomend? I also want them to hit at the same time. I dont know if this matters that much but I listen to hard rock/metal

99eclipseguy, I need to know what kind of enclosure that your subs are in. This will greatly affect the outcome of what amp you need.

If you catch this in time, I would consider this auction. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=79827&item=5740812468&rd=1
I know it is on ebay, and people tell you not to buy things off ebay, but I bought my WHOLE alpine system off this site and nothing has gone bad yet.

what about Rockford Fosgate ?

Now, you have to remember...what I am about to say is MY personal opinion. Anyone who disagrees is encouraged to write a post saying that they don't think the same thing.
Here it is:
Rockford amps....I would only buy them for a LAST resort. By this I mean that if I only had $300 and I needed a 1000w or more amplifier, I would probably go with a rockford. However, in my own personal opinion, their subs SUCK. I wouldn't buy a rockford subwoofer in any circumstance given.
I have realized that if you are new to car stereos, the best way to learn and get familiar with system is to buy the cheapest crap that you can throw together. Yes, it will sound like crap, but you will be able to learn without frying an amp that you just paid $1,000 for.
My first system was a lightning 12" sub that I bought at best buy for $20, a soundstorm 150w amp that costed $75 from a local stereo shop. I put the sub in a PLYWOOD box that I built myself...lol; but anyway I used a t-shirt to seal between the sub and box. So, yeah; you can imagine what crap I did. Also, I ran the power cable through the door jam and about 2 weeks later I ended up closing the door on the power wire and caused a direct short on the battery. I had to quickly grap a pair of dykes that were luckily laying in my passenger seat, and quickly clip the wire before it burned up all the way to the battery... Yeah, I have had my experiences, but you have to start somewhere.
Now, I have a decent system. It is all the sound I need for now, however when I get my car paid off, you damn-well know there are going to be 2 12" w7's back there with a jl 1000w amp for each. Also to go with this nice set-up, realistically I will probably get an eclipse head-unit, however I would really like to get the in-dash dvd player.
The main point is, when you get familiar to your system, MAKE SURE you buy what YOU want. Don't just go out to the stereo shop and get pressured into some equipment that sounds good now, but you regret it later because you could have found some better equipment for a hell of a lot cheaper. Make sure you look around and get the best deal on quality equipment.
Hey nick, I am kinda curoius to know if you are considering buying something by rockford. Because I will say that not all their stuff is bad, just a lot of it:) lol

i was just looking but... i also am looking at stuff and not knowing what it means....i mean i realy know nothing other than the basics (sub = boom boom) thats about it so all im doing now is looking so if ppl would like to email me or post or even send me a link on how it all works and what makes a sub better , i would love it .... money is a issue but not so much were im buying crap. i just bought a eclispe and want it to sound great... just dont know what im doing ! hehe
help if you can
thanks guys
Email: drbeat_nick@hotmail.com

Something that I would suggest....go to howstuffworks.com. For this instance, we are talking about car stereos--example: amplifiers, capacitors, subwoofers, sub-sonic filters. Things of that nature...but you can also use this site to help your understanding of ANYTHING else. It gives a good description of how your engine works too

i was looking at the 10' Punch P1 from rockford fosgate for $60 at best buy is that a o.k. price for them ?

Im also trying to put together a good system for my lancer, not too familiar with this stuff but have been doing some homework. What do you guys think of the JLw7 10" subwoofers? Im thinking i could get away with just one in a custom jl box and still get a bigger "boom" than any 2 you will find from walmart or circiut city. And Im planning on getting a JL 500/1 amp to power it. What do u think?

first of all i have 1 and it hits harder than any alpine i have found. oh and about the it is a dual voice coil oh but you took class in electrionics right you sould know that becuse your aplines are only a single voice coil. and it is hooked up to only 1000W with a i have a total of 4"suspension about 12' of total movement or as in electronic terms at about 150 Hrz " howmany times the speaker moves in a full cycle center bottom then top". and in the amps are where your diodes, capacitors, inductors are the speaker has voice coils that become polerized when the electric current passes through it. and they are not v-22 they are
V-48 with an alluminum cone. so stop blabering about amps when speakers work a little differant off of electromagnetics. not diodes, capacitors, inductors. and i did not get them off ebay bought from factory with a year free replacement i can kick the speaker in and they will replace it. oh and your amp is pushing about 250W becusee they test them at 18v not 12v. oh and after about 10,000 hours of use i will replace them becuse speakers go down hill from there. oh and as for the W7 that you like so much a pyrimid solo baric would beat it. and those speakers you bought most of that price was from parts markup nothing else. books are nice but nomatter what a book says unless you blow acoupples of speakers amps then
oh and its millaseconds micro means small. i went to school with electronic enginner that showed me how to build a small amp that i use for my home sterio.

oh and my amp is 1000W on a 12V system.

books are nice but nomatter what a book says unless you blow acoupples of speakers amps then
sorry didnt finish
books are nice but nomatter what a book says unless you blow a coupples of speakers amps this has taught me alot of stuff for example have you ever thrown a sub out of its basket i have voice coild and all. not a fun thing to do but it was experimentation ya there are bad products out there but i have had nothing but good from mine and ebay not a good idea for audio equipment who says it hasent been used all i have to have to do is put it in the box it came with and bam it is now brand new.

not trying to pick a fight but speakers work differant than amps. most of the stuff you talk about is about amps.
how much flex dose you speaker have dont say this dont matter because all a sub dose is move air. i use a bass reflux box as well becuse i put it in a sealed box and blew the top off the box.

well, that "flex" has a name. It is called excursion. Also, if you used 3/4" mdf instead of 1/2", maybe you wouldn't have to worry about blowing the top of the box off. Also, if you drill and put dowells in with some wood glue and screw it down, you don't really have to worry about anything.

Oh, and I can throw a speaker out of it's basket, just simply take a speaker rated at a low rms and put a high power amp on it...there's your experiment.

like i said experimentation and the speaker pushed too much air i was told by a car audio pro to put it in a bass reflex box and it sounded 3 times as good. and i would put it agenst your subs i can keep up with my cousons sterio which has 4 12" subs in sealed box with 2 1000" watt amps its all about air movment and most mid classes subs $150-$300 dont have the "excursion" that speakers like mine do that is why i bought it if i was serious i would go with a 15" solo baric or a new MTX 7000 comp sub. pushing alot of power but it is loud as i would like it and it is crisp clean bass. "screwing with amp makes a big differance as well took me 2 hours to get mine just right"

OK...I just read your post on the first page...GET A ****ING DICTIONARY. You can't spell to save your life. Another thing, the Alpine type-E is the only one with a single voice coil...type s,r and the new X all have dual voice coils; but what makes them special is the spider set-up. The spider is what connects the coil to the basket. I am tired of arguing with your stupid crap. Here is a statement that hopefully will clear some crap up:

I bought all my audio off ebay a year and a half ago. I STILL have had no problems with it yet and what I own does the job fine for what I need. I don't need a stupid year factory warranty, becuase I am not stupid and push my equipment to the limits. Besides, if I did get a warranty, I wouldn't have used it yet.

I AM NOT COMPETING. MY STEREO IS JUST FOR PERSONAL ENJOYMENT. Also, I do not have $3-4,000 to throw on a stereo, I would rather buy performance parts.

ORIGINAL: 99eclipseguy

m3kgt_99 I have two 10 inch alpine type e subwoofers. They are 600 peak and 200rms. I am having trouble finding a amp that will just slightly underpower them so I dont blow them. What amp would you recomend? I also want them to hit at the same time. I dont know if this matters that much but I listen to hard rock/metal


Get a amp that will only push 200rms. You don't look at peak. RMS is what you want to match. So you should be able to find a amp to match that.

Rockford Fosgate is good at powering up a sub not so good at sending it a clean signal. When I was using two RF 801s amps to my subs and I switched to two NINe.1 amps there was a noticiable imporvment in bass response. Another thing too is that RF amps are known to get hot. If you can find one of the older RF amps that would be good.

ORIGINAL: NickDH

i was just looking but... i also am looking at stuff and not knowing what it means....i mean i realy know nothing other than the basics (sub = boom boom) thats about it so all im doing now is looking so if ppl would like to email me or post or even send me a link on how it all works and what makes a sub better , i would love it .... money is a issue but not so much were im buying crap. i just bought a eclispe and want it to sound great... just dont know what im doing ! hehe
help if you can
thanks guys
Email: drbeat_nick@hotmail.com



Everyone is going to have there own opinion on what sounds better to them or not. First I would start with what kind of system your trying to build and what kind of budget your looking at. Then do some research on what people are saying but don't judge it fully on that. Everyone has different taste on what they thing there system should sound like. If you want a link to begin on how stereo systems work I would suggest this link first...

http://www.bcae1.com/

ORIGINAL: NickDH

i was looking at the 10' Punch P1 from rockford fosgate for $60 at best buy is that a o.k. price for them ?


If that is what your budget calls for and your happy with how it sounds then that is fine. Unless your trying to go all big time then just stick with those.;)

calm down and try telling me why you are trying to prove a point that you know nothing about have you owned them no have you heard a V-48 not likely im not caping on alpine but i dont appreciate it when you are stating facts about **** you dont know.
like me saying apline is total $hit and the are the worst subs ever.

ORIGINAL: miche77e

Im also trying to put together a good system for my lancer, not too familiar with this stuff but have been doing some homework. What do you guys think of the JLw7 10" subwoofers? Im thinking i could get away with just one in a custom jl box and still get a bigger "boom" than any 2 you will find from walmart or circiut city. And Im planning on getting a JL 500/1 amp to power it. What do u think?


JL is good just over priced. If you doing a custom box I would suggest a vented enclosure. Now keep in mind that 10"s don't go as "low" as 12's or 15's do.

And last but not least is that everyone will have an opinion on to what is good or not. Expecially when it comes to car audio. I would suggest to everyone to hear for themselves different set ups and go with what your ear tells you and what your pocket book says.

ok...Prophet, there is a 250/1 jl audio amp that I would suggest for 99eclipseguy for his type-e subs that he has now. What do you think?

ORIGINAL: m3kgt_99

ok...Prophet, there is a 250/1 jl audio amp that I would suggest for 99eclipseguy for his type-e subs that he has now. What do you think?


Well lets see....

m3kgt_99 I have two 10 inch alpine type e subwoofers. They are 600 peak and 200rms. I am having trouble finding a amp that will just slightly underpower them so I dont blow them. What amp would you recomend? I also want them to hit at the same time. I dont know if this matters that much but I listen to hard rock/metal


He wants to underpower the speakers because he is worried about blowing them. I wouldn't go with the JL then. JL is known to underate there amps. I would choose another amp.

Prophet, you say that JL are good but overpriced...is there a cheaper brand that sounds just as good then? And another thing, I mostly listen to rock music, no rap, so isnt lower actually better? 10's over 12's? And as for the box i was thinking about the HO series by JL, any opinions on them? Thanks for any help you can give. ;)

Yes get 10" subs if you listen to rock, because the larger the sub it won't be able to keep up with the rock music. Rockford, and Alpine will be much cheaper and are pretty good quality, but if you want a really good system I would get like 2 10" jk w3s or w7s, but that will cost a ton for w7s.

Unless someone has a reason not to check out ebay. I found some people who sell some B-stock subs that have like scratches and stuff just enough so they couldn't sell them in a retail store, most of them still come with factory warranties and they are dirt cheap. I'm not a big sub person but I've always liked JL, def a little pricy though.

ORIGINAL: miche77e

Prophet, you say that JL are good but overpriced...is there a cheaper brand that sounds just as good then? And another thing, I mostly listen to rock music, no rap, so isnt lower actually better? 10's over 12's? And as for the box i was thinking about the HO series by JL, any opinions on them? Thanks for any help you can give. ;)


12's will hit the lower freq. then a 10 will. If you willing to stick with the jl price I would suggest the W6's because there a little cheaper then the W7's and since it sounds like you don't really want the low end bass then get the W6's because you will end up paying a W7 price tag and not use the full potential of the sub.

If your looking for a good quality SQ sub I would suggest the Elemental Designs kv series. Alot of happy customers... outstanding customer service.... reasonably priced subs with outstanding output. Sound quality is amazing. I am a die hard fan and if you choose to go the ED route let me know and I can help you choose a great system.
http://www.edesignaudio.com/

Those look interesting, I may have to keep that in mind when I look to change my system around.

I'd wether call them Rockford ****gate. :)

Ive had some awesome success with Kenwood and most of all Audiobahn, find urself a Kenwood and BETTER YET Audiobahn dealer... There is nothing out there better than Audiobahn so if you talkin quality.. go with Audiobahn... Im plenty happy with what i got goin in my car... I have a KDC-X969 Kenwood Excelon Head-Unit, 2 800 Watt Kenwood amps, 2 12" Kenwood Typhoon subs in a vented box that are both bridged to their own amp, an EFX 1 fared cap (Yes i know i need another one) and Scosche 4 ga. power and ground wires... oh and Scosche RCA's... So, whatcha think? it hits really hard and im not really fully powering my subs because it gets to be too much bass and you cant hear the music... but i want to take it somewhere to have it tested to see how many DB's i can hit... Oh and is it tru that if you have rattles they wont test it? I have quite a bit of rattles that i need to take care of.. im thinkin ima go with Accumat.. they seem like a pretty good company.. :D

http://www.termpro.com/asp/competitorstats.asp?Competitor_ID=38487

Here's my old dBDRA profile, although I think its probalby going to expire any day now.

Dragon, I will give you that Kenwood makes great head units. Alot of the Kicker pros I compete with seem to go with either Kenwood or Panasonic units. As far as Audiobahn goes, I guess I would like to see what kind of information you have on them that they are so great.

Audiobahn has always been a weird company to me personally. They are very generous when it comes to money to put towards bigger car audio events (i.e. Oklahoma Showdown 2004 was one my brother was involved in last year), but no one really runs any of their stuff. Same goes for Kenwood subs and amps.

As far as your comment regarding running your car through the lanes at a show or something, I would definately encourage it. And no, you should be able to run your car through the lanes for SPL competition regardless of how much your car rattles. The only reason that would be counted against you is if you were to enter a SQ competition.

Just remember to make sure what they are using to measure the car with (pressure sensor, mic, etc.) The two most popular ones today are the Termlab (a pressure sensor which is the official brand of all the major car audio competition sanctions) and the AudioControl (a mic).

Also remember that not all of them read the same. There are some cheap brand mics out there that register my car at close to 160 db! lol. The average AC runs me just shy of 148 and the TL usually runs my car anywhere from 5-12 db lower depending on whether or not my car is on or off, I'm running on the dash or outlaw, etc.

Sorry if I started speaking another language on you.

No, i understood what u were saying.. thats crazy how much of a difference the different "sensors" range from on ur system... So what are you running? And about Audiobahn... i dunno i guess its one of those personal preferences.. I really love their stuff. My dad is running 4 Audiobahn Linear Compression 12" subs, 2 rack mount amps powering the 4 subs, a 100 band Audiobahn EQ and another amp powering the regular speakers... Also has the new Kenwood Excelon DVD Player Touch Screen Head unit with the Removable faceplate and 32 Fared Audiobahn Capacitor and of course an extra battery... (Optima Yellow Tops) Got an Xbox in back with a flip down screen... heres some pics of the work in progress... car is Alot further now and is almost complete.. havent got a chance to get any updated pics but youll get the Idea... Keep in mind that this is a 96 Camaro... ;)

local://upfiles/2507/E72F50E97ABB4A749922CF28EA41A687.jpg

local://upfiles/2507/DBC9424EBD404298934DFBF578000571.jpg

local://upfiles/2507/F6EE2E18187B49D88D3C7BB7D775C7E3.jpg

Very cool pics of that camaro set-up. Here's what I'm running as of now (posted some pics as well):

Source Unit: Pioneer DEH-P7500mp
Amps: Crossfire VR1000D (Subs)
Crossfire VR404 (Component Set)
Subs: Crossfire BMF W12Ds (Pair)
Component Speakers: Crossfire SQ-6.0 (Doors)
Other Speakers: Crossfire SX69 (Rear Dash)
Crossfire SX52 (Trunk Lid)
Battery: Optima Red Top
Alternator: Ohio Generator
Alarm: AutoPage RS LCD-850

As you can tell, I'm a big fan of Crossfire (http://www.crossfirecaraudio.com) (click on the link, look around and you'll find out why).

Yes, as you mentioned, different meters read different ways. However, the lower they read, the more accurate they are. Sensors are always going to be more accurate than mic meters (with the exception of the B&K which is the most accurate meter on the planet). The reason for this is that mic meters are affected more by humidity and other factors. A pressure sensor does not have those problems.

The best one out right now is the Termlab which was developed by Wayne Harris (the Godfather of Car Audio Competition and former big dog for Rockford Fosgate back in their prime.)

Yeah, the cheap, handheld meters are the ones that read me way high.

In closing, when it comes to car audio competitions, I'm going to go with Pioneer Sources, Crossfire Amps, and Digital Designs (http://www.ddaudio.com) subs.

And to all you JLW7 lovers, their 3500 series way put ya'll away anytime, anyplace.

That's just my opinion though.

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ORIGINAL: get435

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ORIGINAL: get435

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I have 2 Memphis 12's 600watt each in a 38inch long , 18inch wide box and im taking those speakerz out of that box and plan on taking the back seatz out of my eclipse and building a smaller box to put those speakers in and stickin it in place of where the back seatz were. It'll be tricky but i think i can pull it off, but to my question.......what kinda amp do u think i need to push those 2 600watt subz? at a prace range around 200$?

cool

it really depends on what kind of money you are looking to spend and what you want to hear. if you are looking for a tight budget but decent sound, go with the Alpine type R's the are only about 200 a piece, they sound pretty good and are easy to fine (best buy). if you have the money and are looking for a sub that is very loud WITH good sound quality go with JL Audio W7-12, these subs are UNbelievable sounding and they are loud, TRUST me on that! each one of the w7-12 is anywhere from 575 - 750, but for good sound you have to spend good money, if you go with JL Audio, you will have to upgrade your Alternator. if you are on the same budget as the JL but all you want to do is blow your ears off and dont care about the sound quality go with a Kicker Solo-x, these subs will deaden your ears, when you speak you won't be able to hear it! these range anywhere from 599-999. BUT if you don't have a budget and are looking for the BEST and i mean THE BEST Digital Design is your sub! these are made to be the best, and that's wha they are, but they aren't cheap, a high end 12 is about 1400 + shipping.

i can go to the sunrise flea market in florida and find a pair of 12 inch subs brand new for 100 and there boomin with at least 800 watts of power a peice you gotta find the deals before u buy things lol