Started smelling coolant today. Popped the hood, and flecks of dried coolant on the head, and intake. with little puddles just behind the radiator. I also have bubbling on the front top of the radiator... Mine is a 2000 with 130K seems I beat the 70 - 100K .
Couple questions.
1. Metal vs. Plastic people's thoughts/experiences I just bought an all metal one for my wife's Volvo. The Volvo I intend to keep for mannnnnny years. It just rolled over to 200K ! Expecting to get 500K out of it. It is just 50 bucks more but....

2. How long do I have? Today is Sunday, and it will take at least a week to get the parts in. I know this is not a High Pressure system like the Volvo is... Am I in danger of the thing blowing and losing all my coolant and being stranded while I wait for parts? I lost about 1/4 of my tank driving 10 miles... Filling up before I leave for work/home is no problem.

 

Either one, any brand, you get what you pay for generally speaking.

The system can't pressurize, so it will spew coolant the entire drive. Not good. Is the T-stat stuck closed or can the coolant circulate? Obviously though, you need a radiator asap. No bets on your headgasket.

 

The radiator is holding together so far... I have driven it every day. I check the levels before I leave. The Thermostat is operating properly. There is no way this is a high pressure system like the volvo is... I have the new radiator ordered... praying she'll hold together until it comes!

 

Ok! The old radiator lasted for 2 weeks. The line fracture on the front side of the radioator reservoir got a little worse, but did not fail. This with 90 degree temps and driving 80... sometimes...

I did not run the AC for these two weeks.

I ordered the OEM replacement from Radiator BArn. I did not get the all metal one... I hope I won't regret that...

It bolted right in no worries...

Just an FYI, When you drain the radiator it seems to be exactly the amount of coolent that you get when you buy a jug... Buy the 50/50 and you will be all set... Unless you want to buy 100% and have a full jug of 50/50 left over afterward. Also... I filled the radiator all the way, then I sealed the radiator with the cap expecting the suction to pull any more it needed from the radiator... I drove down to the parts store, and on my way there, my temp guage bumped into the red!!! I brought it home and bravely pulled the filler cap off. It looked like it could use some more coolent. I poured the rest of the jug into the top of the radiator... No more over heating.

Don't forget to buy a quart of trany fluid... you lose about 5/6 of a quart in switching out the radiator!

 

1-800-radiator
had mine in stock

 

Hey gang,
I replaced my "cracked rad" & t- stat & rad cap, flushed system (cuz I'd put stop leak in it like a DUMB ***!" Yet after refilling system, the water doesn't seem to be circulating in the radiator. I was watching water level waiting for it to drop, so I could top it off & BLEED THE AIR (which I can't find by the way. Anybody know where bleeder screw is on 2000 eclipse 2.4l, m/t?) But level never dropped, fans didn't kick on, instead water started bubbling out rad. Why? What's this mean? Pl help. I'd be so greatful. Thnx jonny
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