Thank you all for the help and info.

I got it for 2900 and it's the full size montero Los model with only 166k miles on it.

I think I got it for a steal but I foresee more problems as it looks like a lot has been monkeyed with.

I will check fuel pump later and get back to you guys. If I do end up getting one does it have to be OEM or can an aftermarket one work? eBay looks like they are around 20-40.

If it doesn't turn on when key is turned I will replace it. Does the tank need drained?

What other freeze frame data do you need? The same but only with the engine going?

Again thank you.

Jp

 

Heh I guess we'll see.

Oh that is an expensive adapter... though when you said expensive I expected an extra 0 on that price.

 

As long as it's made for your make/model/year I can't see any reason an aftermarket one wouldn't work... If it's a huge pain to get to you might want to look at a genuine one.. Not sure.

I wouldn't jump right into replacing the pump if it doesn't turn on... It could be a bad wire, a bad relay, probably not a bad fuse if it's intermittent... Rule out all electrical issues before you change parts.

I think ideally live data not freeze frame would help here.. short term and long term fuel trims over a bit of time (few seconds to a minute) at different engine speeds I think that would be helpful.

I'm not sure if getting the test adapter for more than the cost of a fuel pump would be wise or not... Then again if there's a clog somewhere you may end up having no choice but to do a fuel pressure test... I'll let Hunter comment on that.

 

If you have 12 volts at the pump, but pump is not working - its is probably a bad pump. You do not need to drain fuel - the pump and sending unit are removed from the top of the tank right through the access panel. If you are going to get an aftermarket pump, get it from RockAuto.com rather than from E-bay. There is also a built in fuel filter in the tank. I wonder if low fuel flow can be related to it being plugged up with gunk? Test first

If you don't have voltage, or have intermittent voltage at the pump - double and triple check wiring, fuses and relays. BTW, a fuse may look good but be burnt out or have an intermittent connection.

 

If the fuel pump is that easy to get to you could take it out and hook it up (very briefly) to a battery and see if it runs too.

Definitely eliminate any electrical problems and confirm the pump isn't running and the filter is clean before you order parts.

I wouldn't think a fuse could be sort of bad but I guess I'm wrong. I know they can look good but test bad but I've never seen an intermittent fuse.

 

Ok will try and get it with the voltmeter tomorrow and let you guys know the results.
will also check wires/plugs, and fuses around it or that have to do with the fuel pump.

thanks again

JP

 

Went out today to see if i could get to the fuel pump but had trouble removing the passengers seat.

I also was going to look for the relay fuse for the gas pump but couldn't find the fuse to it! i looked through all the fuse boxes.

I really do think its a fuel related issue.
It started today but sluggishly and i was able to drive it around a lot. it did fine on the freeways but idled rough in town and it died at one of the stop lights, but i was able to get it going again.

When first starting it it tries to start but has a hard time and sometimes will start. It starts more often when i give it some gas during starting it.

I will try and get to the fuel pump tomorrow i was racing against time today and couldn't finish trying to get to it.

And also check the relay fuse, and the relay itself.

 

Let's see what your fuel pump test will look like. Idling rough but driving OK on freeway is interesting. Does it ever hesitate when you drive and give it full gas (floor it)? I do have another suspect in mind, but it should have thrown a separate code for that. Lets first see what you get from your tests before piling on all other possible things. keep at it.

 

No hesitation at all . one of the most powerful v6's i have ever driven. It feels more like a v8.

I am still having trouble getting the passengers seats undone. I have looked up the pictures and charts etc but i still cannot find the anchor points. I undid some of the bolts from the bottom front of the seats but nothing.

Also the radiator is acting odd. It was very empty when i bought it and the overflow was way above the full mark. So i put some coolant in and drove it around a bit and looked in and the over flow was way above the mark again but the radiator was way low??? so i filled it again and drained some of the over flow again.

does this indicate something major happening? i have never had a radiator do that.
and there are no holes or leaks in any of the hoses or the radiator its self. so its not draining out. I am thinking of just flushing it all, and seeing what happens after flushed.

 

Well, if you have no hesitation on hard acceleration your fuel pump must be working fine. That's what i though was odd that you said it runs well on the highway. That is when demand for fuel is higher. I'm starting to suspect a vacuum leak. Just in case - check your air hosing hose (between MAF and throttle body). Make sure it is connected well and that there is no holes in it. Check all your vacuum hoses. There is not much you can do without live data feed to test and see what is happening exactly.

As far as the radiator - It is not good that coolant is disappearing somewhere. Your best hope is the bad radiator cap. On Montero they are interesting design, where they vent excess pressure and fluid out to overflow tank, but when the engine cools off, the fluid should siphon back into the cooling system. When radiator cap does not work the second part never takes place and you end up with less fluid every time you drive. Put a new cap on it, bleed the system and see if this symptom goes away. You will need OEM Mitsubishi cap - I've tried 2 different aftermarket ones and none of them work (even though the numbers supposedly match)