Hi Larry, Well with what you have wrong here is different from mine... but if it were me I would have the block resleeved and cut, heads cut if they can be. All new gaskets of course. New pistons. any worn parts like that. Cause I have been their before and spent a lot of money only to find I made an air compressor out of the motor and made it undriveable. Yes cursing was involved too. You will save a lot of time and money just resleeving the block. Check that out first bud. Don't make the same mistake I did. Yes the soda blaster can work but I used a parts washer with a stiff brush. Should be done in a heated garage not in a back yard also. One other thing..... Get the CD or the Manual.. You will need the toque specs and make some install tools.. for some reason their should be left handed bolts where their are right handed like for the timing belt tensioner pulley.. you will see.

 

Hi larry,

As a follow up to my other post, you can investigate with a reliable shop the viability of having all the holes bored out to the minimum "C" piston range, and then buy 6 C pistons from Mitsu. This way you end up with actual factory specs still.

 

The bores are fine, original cross hatching still present. The factory used 5 Class B pistons and 1 Class A piston in my engine. I will be buying 2 Class B factory pistons to replace the damaged ones. Machine shop said waste of time and money to bore, said I should replace the two damaged pistons and rods, deglaze the bores, new rings and go. They also looked at the heads and said no need to resurface.

I have a heated garage, commercial parts washer, factory manuals, etc.

 

Outlandish1 - thanks for the assembly lube tip!.

 

My pleasure, glad to help.
Good luck with your project!

 

No need to sleeve the block. Original bores are not scored and still show factory cross hatching. I will deglaze the bores.

 

larry, This quote from the original owners makes me chuckle....the crowd silence was noticable wasnt it? Too bad,as an owner I would have loved to have believed all were much longer lived. ive got 230k & never a part failure or replacement(except timing belt,cruise control,antenna,spare lift mechanism) ,but Ive been worrying ever since i turned 200K. Thx for all the explanation on your project.It has convinced me to not attempt it myself and look for a reman shtblock or another with much less mileage. Ive seen 60-100 K monteros for sale,but the 2 i saw locally went relatively quick.

 

I feel your pain. I looked for quite some time to try to find a good used running engine from a wrecked vehicle, etc. I was not able to find anything local and the few junkyards in my area were less than cooperative. The used engines on-line were all well north of $1000-1500 plus shipping and then those engines all had mileage near comparable to mine. So, I decided to dig in to determine the problem, and this is the path it lead me to.

I am curious as to whether the similar engine variants from other Mitsubishi vehicles and/or Dodge would fit. Search "Club 3G Forum" and "Club 4G Forum" and you will find lots of folks working on near identical engines from other marks.

 

Bought some Craftsman tools at Sears to assist in the rebuild. Valve spring compressor, gasket scrapers, and ratcheting type band piston ring compressor. All Made In USA

Still need to buy engine cleaning brushes, dingle berry hone, and piston ring expander pliers.

 

Cleaning pistons and rods in the Zep Dyna Brute parts washer. Using Zep Dyna 143 cleaning solvent. The tank was a Craigslist find for $70 but I needed to replace the fusible link, all of the hoses, and find a new o-ring for the filter. Home Depot string wound water filters HDX2SF4 work perfect!. I separately also scored three 20 gallon barrels of Dyna 143 for $120.