Blower Motor/Resistor Module
#21
06-18-2011, 05:03 PM
problem solved
Thanx jrmdir, that thread u referred me to did the trick, it was the relay. I noticed it earlier & though it was for the engine cooling fan & did not check it. After traveling 1.5 hrs to a salvage yard for the switch, purchasing the resistor & after about 3hrs of tearing apart 3/4 of the dashboard, it was one of the 1st things I looked at but didnt check, the relay. I wish I would have posted the question earlier. Thanx again for your assistance. This forum is great.
#22
06-18-2011, 05:21 PM
Great!
Sorry about all your extra work but all's well that end's well - and you didn't pay a shop that might have gone thru the same goose chase at your expense. Plus-you've got a new lease on resistor pack life and are now an expert in Montero Sport dash disassembly
Hope the reassmbly goes well and that you have many trouble free miles ahead.
Ron
Sorry about all your extra work but all's well that end's well - and you didn't pay a shop that might have gone thru the same goose chase at your expense. Plus-you've got a new lease on resistor pack life and are now an expert in Montero Sport dash disassembly
Hope the reassmbly goes well and that you have many trouble free miles ahead.
Ron
#23
06-19-2011, 10:03 AM
Dash reasembled
Thanx again, I have the dash back together & I am goin to pickup the relay from NAPA its $8.49. They didnt have a listing for it so I used the Headlamp relay to cross reference it. Thats they relay I used to diagnoss the problem with your help. Thanx again, Happy Fathers Day to all the Dads. I will post some pics of my Montero Sport with my custom street mods.
#24
08-18-2011, 08:53 AM
Blower motor resisor or not?
Thank you for taking the time in reading this thread and is much appreciated. I have a 98 Montero Sport. My a/c works on levels 1-3 however does not on 4. After reading these post I myself came to the conclusion that it was the resistor so I went to Advance to order and the guy at the counter said that it would not be the resistor if #4 is not working b/c #4 has direct power and the resistor is what controls 1-3. Stated that the issue would be the direct power line and must have a loose conection somewhere. Is that correct, I didn't order it b/c of this fellow.
#25
10-05-2011, 05:38 PM
Thank to this forum I repaired my Heater blower it was turning on high when the car was on and not going to a lower speed. From my new part I read it with an ohm meter and would like to rely the info found for future diagnoses. If you hold the transistor looking at the leads I numbered them 1,2,3 left to right top to bottom with wiring harness hole on top.
Ohm meter orientation
+ - Reading
1 2 OL
2 1 84.7k
1 3 2.285k
3 1 2.285k
2 3 600k
3 2 OL
Now I know meter readings very from meter to meter but this should be a good test to indicate weather the transistor is working or not.
Ohm meter orientation
+ - Reading
1 2 OL
2 1 84.7k
1 3 2.285k
3 1 2.285k
2 3 600k
3 2 OL
Now I know meter readings very from meter to meter but this should be a good test to indicate weather the transistor is working or not.
#26
07-31-2014, 08:26 AM
resistor trouble shooting
IMy daughter has a 2003 outlander that the blower was broken so I replaced the bower. The blower runs fine on switch position 4 but not on position 1,2,or 3. There is no a?c on position 4 and pushing the a/c button has the recirc light on in the controller on but no A/C. If I put the switch to 1.2, or 3 the A/c light comes on but no blower. I suspect that the resistor is foobar but to get to it I will have to remove the glove compartment and don,t find the proper procedure on how to get it out to check the ohm readings on the terminals. Also should the problem be in either the harness or the controller switch does any one know how to get these for testing and where to get repacement parts. This Outlander was made in Japan. I finally fiured out how to get to the resistor by removing the glove box. one simply squeeze the rear of each side of the box to disengage the box and after it rotates downward simply lit off of the pivot bar. The resistor is exposed and easily removed eith #1 phillips. The resistor was blown as pins 2 3 and 4 were ope whe checked with oh meter
Last edited by fumblefingers; 08-04-2014 at 09:37 AM.
#27
05-11-2015, 11:58 PM
Heater fan not going at all.
Hi and thanks for the info. I guess this is an old thread, but I've got a similar problem, I've just got no heater fan at all.
The previous owner said it worked in position 4 only, nothing there now.
I've checked all the fuses, relays, but there's no power to the 5 way switch at all.
If someone could send me a wiring diagram it would help.
Thanks!
bo
The previous owner said it worked in position 4 only, nothing there now.
I've checked all the fuses, relays, but there's no power to the 5 way switch at all.
If someone could send me a wiring diagram it would help.
Thanks!
bo
Does it still work on high (4)? If so then it does seem that the resistor pack is the problem. But that doesn't explain why the new one failed so soon. Either it was defective or there may be a problem with the fan speed switch.
If you have an ohm meter you can pull the resitor pack and check to see if one or more of the resistors is actually blown. If it tests good, the problem is the switch. If it's bad you may want to try another one but if that one also blows it's definitely a switch problem. Send me a PM with an e-mail address and I can send you the wiring diagram.
Ron
If you have an ohm meter you can pull the resitor pack and check to see if one or more of the resistors is actually blown. If it tests good, the problem is the switch. If it's bad you may want to try another one but if that one also blows it's definitely a switch problem. Send me a PM with an e-mail address and I can send you the wiring diagram.
Ron
#28
06-02-2015, 11:52 AM
Thanks Will:
Good info. The higher the setting, the greater the current flow. If the switch contacts or wiper arm are pitted and not making good contact, then since more current = more heat, at some point something loses contact and stays that way until it cools down. For this to happen sooner on 3 than on 4(and not at all on 1 and 2) would seem to make sense.
Here's a place you can call to check pricing on a switch (or maybe the whole panel if cheap enough) Used Mitsubishi parts, Used Saturn parts, Used Subaru Parts, Used Toyota parts and Dodge Import used parts
Let me know if you want a copy of the wiring diagram. It would be fairly easy to confirm that it's the switch using a test light or continuity tester.
Ron
Good info. The higher the setting, the greater the current flow. If the switch contacts or wiper arm are pitted and not making good contact, then since more current = more heat, at some point something loses contact and stays that way until it cools down. For this to happen sooner on 3 than on 4(and not at all on 1 and 2) would seem to make sense.
Here's a place you can call to check pricing on a switch (or maybe the whole panel if cheap enough) Used Mitsubishi parts, Used Saturn parts, Used Subaru Parts, Used Toyota parts and Dodge Import used parts
Let me know if you want a copy of the wiring diagram. It would be fairly easy to confirm that it's the switch using a test light or continuity tester.
Ron
so what was wrong with his ac in the first place?
#29
09-11-2016, 06:53 PM
Good Day Sir, I had problem with my Motor Blower Control Module/Resistor which I oftenly change, for one month use it get busted, What is the reason why this module get busted all the time? My car is Outlander 2009 Model 3.0. Thanks Sir ...
#30
09-12-2016, 04:14 PM
What AC you have? Manual control with 4 settings? Or, automatic, where you set the temperature you want and it controls itself?