Green96LS wrote:

Anyways, I dont know what to look for a damaged valve other than its bent so Ill probably take the head to a an actual mechanic.

I'm sorry, I know it's late but that is probably the most priceless line I've encountered in a long while. I'd pay to have that on a tee shirt or something. It's brilliant. It might be just me, but that one line seems to encompass everything about the DIY mentality, what this forum is about, and the whole magnificent awful Human Condition since we jumped out of the trees and started walking out of Africa. Please, somebody, buy this man a beer....

 

Hey Rob,

I've got everything back together, started right up. Few things on the tbelt tension. First, my tool didn't work because the little screws I used as pins bent, they were just too long/soft (you know, I'm old!). So I did it by hand. The Haynes manual said torque it CCW, and my online manual said CW (interestingly, they both seem effective). CW just seemed to make more sense so that's what I did. As you mention the cam induced tension above, shouldn't be a problem by testing. First a 1/4 turn of crank CCW then back CW to TDC, check timing marks. If ok, turn crank a few turns to spread the slack (or tension) around, then check if the pin on the auto-tensioner is loose. Mine wasn't entirely loose, but almost, so I pulled the pin. Then a few more CW crank turns and five minute wait, see if the plunger on the auto-tensioner is at 0.2" (mine looks about .25, hope that's not too tight...). Most torque wrenches that are good at 5-50 in-lbs are $$$, but I did find one online for $30. I just didn't want to wait for shipping and my tool was a dismal failure (like I said, I'm old), so I did it by hand like you (hey, if you can do it...).

About your valves, you're talking about the right side cam? Mine popped off it's balance point (CW) when I was taking the sprocket off and scared my crap, but didn't hear any noise. Really think you bent a valve?

Good luck with your project, let us know if your valves are bent. I think Mothman owes you a beer...

 

LOL!!. Thank You.

Anyways, I was looking at the head removal project and came up with a better way of determining if I damaged the valve. So I took the spark plugs out and stuck a rod in the hole. I determined that 2 cylinders are so far down that it would had been impossible for the valve to hit the piston. Here's the big but, the one in the front is only 3cm from the tip of the spark. Anybody knows how far the valves go down into the chamber?

Regards,
Rob T

 

Hi Mvious,
Thanks for the instructions. Im glad that yours is running.
I actually dont know if I bent a valve, its just the noise it made when it turned on its tension that worried me. I expect the valve to make noise when it seats but I dont know how to distinguish between the valve seating or the valve hitting the piston. I'd rather do extra job to be sure rathen find out later.
Ill sure to post, regardless of the outcome.

Regards,
Rob T

 

Green, regarding your bent valve question, you could attach a compressed air attachment (available at most auto parts stores) to your spark plug hole when both valves are in the closed position; a bent valve will leak air.

Just a thought. And, yes, it's better to be safe than sorry. Wait a bit on the beer, OK?

 

Finally got this thing going. Thanks for the suggestions, I was able to confirm that there were no piston to valve contact. I went over the whole timing belt installation, with a proper torque wrench( from harbor freight) and a homemade one.

Put it all back slowly over weeks of putting a little bit at a time and finally it started right up.

The plastic radiator fan had cracks on the base of the blades, I tried using plastic glue but it didnt stick. So i got a 97 montero sports fan and it seem to work. The shape is different and so is the offset from the hub. It bolts right on and the engine has stayed on the middle of the temp guage, even idling with ac on.

so to summarize, I replaced the following parts:
timing belt
tb idler,
tb tensioner,
water pump,
tb cover gaskets ( theres about 12 or so)
valve cover gaskets
induction system gaskets
spark plug wires
spark plugs.
crank bolt and washer
radiator fan,
alternator belt
ps belt
ac belt
pcv valve
oil change
coolant change

Would I do it again? absolutely.
Good luck to all and thanks for all who helped.

 

I really love my Sport Montero 03 awd xls, but that pulley bolt have become a nightmare, the bolt broke again for the 4th time, new bolt torque at 135 lb (4 week apart)
I notice this always happens after a hard acceleration (above 4K), is there something I should check.
I thinking on sending the crankshaft to the machine shop and drill out the old thread and re tread it slightly bigger and machine a custom bolt.
Many people are having problem trying to loosed this bolt, but I'm having trouble keeping it in place.
Any comments??

 

Put socket on the center bolt of the pulley, attach the large ratchet and put it against an immovable object, such as the frame, and crank the engine. Bolt will loosen, no sweat.

 

try and lock the flywheel up with something and then a big breaker bar and extension may do it.

 

Its sounds like your harmonic ballancer is not ballanced. It is getting hard vibration during high RPMs and is snapping the bolt.