Hey there, oil change is almost due. Will be the first one since being the new owner. Didn't find any thread regarding this task so here it is.

Previous owner, from his receipts, has always put synthetic oil.

I like to do my own oil changes and it seems fairly easy to access the drain plug and the filter.

Doesn't look like the previous owner went to Mitsu to change the oil. Went to a generic shop and used a generic filter. Haven't noticed any ill effects after driving 3000+miles.

What filter and oil brand/weight do you guys recommend/use?

Manual says 5W-30 IIRC. Coincidentally enough I will be changing another SUV's oil which uses 10w-30. So I have in my possession both weights, both fully synthetic.

 

Mobil 1 0W-40 or Pennzoil Platinum 5W-40 European Formula. Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40 is very decent too, if you can get your hands on it. Filter wise, I personally use a Hyundai 26300-35503.

 

I just installed my motor and the machine shop told me to use the 0-30 to 0-40 for the first 1000k then i can switch to my 0 or 10 - 30 Royal Purple (I use 20-50 Royal Purple in my big block RoadRunner) or Mobile1 syntec. Just remember it's really bad to switch back to regular oil at this point and i would use the filter that Mobile1 has. Also Mobile1 has a cheaper version that is not a syntec. Just watch what one you buy. Some say you can run 5k on a syntec oil but we still do ours every 3k or less. If you have a Costco in your area they sell it at a good price Mobile1 syntec.

 

I just decided to run what the owners manual says. 5w-30. I'm runnign full synthetic.

Last oil change was 10w-30 synthetic.

Don't notice any diff switching in the weight.

Oil change is easy and straight forward.

You may need to use the socket type oil filter removal tool. Just don't over tighten it so its not hard to remove.

 

Any one have had any issues with bolts that are holding dust panels that needs to be removed to do the oil change?

I am the first owner and have been doing oil changes my self all the time. Have been oiling the bolts prior to putting them back in. As they get very rusty. Learned it from Montero Sport when I had it.

Well, last year one of them decided to never come out again. It turns, but will not move up or down. now I got another bolt doing the same.

Any one experienced this and what are my options as I would like to retain the panels in place.

BTW. It has a bit over 80k now.

thank you

 

I use Castrol GTX 10w-40 in my '92 Montero and everything else I own, with Purolator oil filters. I change the filters every 3,000 miles and the oil every 6,000...especially if it's relatively clean on the dipstick.

 

Purolator Pure One Filters are good. Just avoid Fram since they tend to leak at the seals.

During break in periods your supposed to use conventional oil then switch to Synthetic. As for switching to conventional oil once in a blue moon after regular use of synthetic it should be fine since synthetic is a high detergent oil unlike conventional and there is alot less carbon build up in between gaskets. So if your in a budget crunch, going to conventional in a emergency is fine.

Now going from regular use of conventional with high mileage, there is going to be alot of old carbon build up in between old hardened gaskets, head gaskets, rubber rings, ect. So using Full Synthetic high detergent all of a sudden will do its job of cleaning carbon. So guess what, where the carbon used to be is now a hole or passage for oil to flow through and create to mystery leaks and puddles on driveway since the gaskets are old and not fill the gaps.

Alot of my friends did the switch to Synthetic after I warned them with their cars having 150k plus miles, now they have leaks all over the motor.

 

No one is having any issues with the rusted bolts that hold dust panel?

 

Cougar the bolt you are trying to remove may have gotten crossed threaded on the last oil change and now is stripped. Try using a vise grip and pull the bolt downwards while turning it counter clockwise to remove the bolt. If that don't work you may need a bolt head cutter or drill the head of the bolt and break it off.

Also if you have your oil changed at a shop they like using their torque guns and over torque the screwes and strip the threads. Take a flashlights look at the threads of the bolt where its just spinning and see if its smooth.

 

Thank you for the reply. I am doing all oil changes myself and never use power tools. I also deep those bolts in oil prior to putting them back in to slow down/prevent rust.

I know exactly what you mean regarding power tools. Had it happen on my Sport when I had it one time that I took it to the shop.

I am just a bit surprised that no one else is having the same issue. I am suspecting that the actual threat on the body is gone.

Midwest winters are not gentle. Never was able to unscrew the bolt that holds right fog light.