I sure do appreciate the help, all!

Jrmdir--what you describe is correct re: the switch position---it seems the key/cylinder mechanism will not turn the switch quite far enough, but it fires by hand. It feels like if I could turn the switch just a couple of mm more, the contacts would touch.

The mounting ears on the switch install into the steering column housing with screws, so the position is fixed and cannot be rotated.

Even though I've tried 2 new switches installed without success, it very well may be a badly manufactured lot--they are not OEM. I am going to try a different and hopefully better switch.

This just can't be that difficult--- Thanks all for the help! I'll let us know how this works. Pls keep posting with any other ideas, too!
MM

 

I was replying last night and the site timed me out, so I waited til today.

What jrmdir said, maybe check to make sure you have the correct part but as you are not the original owner, maybe the one that is in there is not the original ignition switch either. The people who input the data into the electronic catalogs, do not know what they are doing, just a number to them.

I have had issues, the latest one or a replacement starter, where the part numbers on the web and all the parts stores, was wrong. The numbers for the auto trans starter and the manual trans starter were reversed. It took me several trips getting a starter, before I compared the new one to the old one and saw the difference.

You do not have this luxury as you do not know if it is the original switch. But it sounds like the key does not rotate far enough when it is in the column but it does when it is in your hand. I could see that if the switch was not completely fastened in place, when turning the key, the whole mechanism would turn, just a little and maybe enough to prevent the key from getting to it's intended start position.

That being said, you could always a switch setup, like in NASCAR where you have a switch to turn the ignition on and a momentary switch to engage the starter.

 

UPDATE---apparent success! After 3 switches and changing the lockset, resetting any security programs, etc. and most importantly taking everything apart several times to make sure I knew how it all worked--- I concluded with ya'lls advice that it could only be 3 bad switches in a row, AND THAT was exactly the case!

The very first time the switch went bad 4 years ago, the shop charged me $320 to troubleshoot and fix. Wasn't going back there again.

THREE 'new'switches in a row ( Duralast P#LS714 from Autozone), all BAD! Picked one up at PepBoys made by BWD, P#CS591, $32.99 ---fired right up, seems OK.

Thanks everyone, I'll be back 'for' or 'to' help!

MM

 

i have a new switch and lock cylinder for sale 50.00 for the pair

 

my mitsbushi sport keeps blowing 40A fuse when I try to start it which keeps it from starting. I have installed new starter and it keeps blowing the 40A fuse located under hood in relay box behind battery. It is a 200 model. I was thinking it could be the relay starter but also could be ignition switch cause it only happens when I try to start car

 

for what year? I hve 08 lancer gts