Leaky coolant pipe, fried knock sensor, replaced accumulator
#1
Leaky coolant pipe, fried knock sensor, replaced accumulator
Last week I picked up a 2001 Montero Limited - a mechanics special on craigslist. It had a significant coolant leak, collecting in the valley between the heads. Also, when the brakes were applied, there was this chirping noise coming from the ABS accumulator. The car had just had head gaskets, timing belt, water pump, plugs, and a lot of other work done within the last 3,000 miles. I picked it up for $2,600, figuring it was either going to be one hell of a great deal - or a really bad one.
I joined this list, and started reading. I found that the coolant leak was likely the O-ring on the water inlet tube that runs in between the heads. I ordered a new tube, O-ring, manifold gasket set, and a knock sensor (decided to install one while I had it opened up). I also ordered a brake booster accumulator.
As I waited for the parts, I began to dismantle. After removing the lower part of the manifold I found that the knock sensor was fried (see photo) - glad I decided to order that part! I then checked out the coolant pipe, and I can see the coolant dripping from it, and could feel coolant on my finger when I ran it under the pipe (see photo). No leaking from the head gaskets - so things are looking good.
Most of my wiring harness protective jackets were pretty shot – I stripped what was left, and re-wrapped the wires with Super 33 electrical tape, and then a split loom jacket rated for 200 degrees. I also replaced all of the O-rings on my injectors.
Parts finally arrive.
After reading the procedure in the service manual for replacing the accumulator, I started having second thoughts about doing it myself. The service manual calls for a brake bleed after the procedure is done, and that requires a special MUT-II scanner for the ABS. I did some research on the web and found others who have replaced the accumulator without bleeding the brakes, so I decided to give it a go. Worse case, I could always take it to the shop for the brake bleed.
With the manifold off, there was good access to the accumulator. I protected the area around the accumulator with a large plastic bag, and then a sheet – in case there was any squirting of brake fluid. I bleed down the pressure in the brake system, and then slowly loosened the accumulator. There was a small hiss, release of a little pressure and a tiny bit of fluid, then it was off. Installing the new one was as simple as spinning it on and torqueing it with a 21mm socket.
I replaced the coolant pipe, and put everything back together. Car fired up like a champ, brakes work great, and no codes!
Looks like a success!
Dekota
I joined this list, and started reading. I found that the coolant leak was likely the O-ring on the water inlet tube that runs in between the heads. I ordered a new tube, O-ring, manifold gasket set, and a knock sensor (decided to install one while I had it opened up). I also ordered a brake booster accumulator.
As I waited for the parts, I began to dismantle. After removing the lower part of the manifold I found that the knock sensor was fried (see photo) - glad I decided to order that part! I then checked out the coolant pipe, and I can see the coolant dripping from it, and could feel coolant on my finger when I ran it under the pipe (see photo). No leaking from the head gaskets - so things are looking good.
Most of my wiring harness protective jackets were pretty shot – I stripped what was left, and re-wrapped the wires with Super 33 electrical tape, and then a split loom jacket rated for 200 degrees. I also replaced all of the O-rings on my injectors.
Parts finally arrive.
After reading the procedure in the service manual for replacing the accumulator, I started having second thoughts about doing it myself. The service manual calls for a brake bleed after the procedure is done, and that requires a special MUT-II scanner for the ABS. I did some research on the web and found others who have replaced the accumulator without bleeding the brakes, so I decided to give it a go. Worse case, I could always take it to the shop for the brake bleed.
With the manifold off, there was good access to the accumulator. I protected the area around the accumulator with a large plastic bag, and then a sheet – in case there was any squirting of brake fluid. I bleed down the pressure in the brake system, and then slowly loosened the accumulator. There was a small hiss, release of a little pressure and a tiny bit of fluid, then it was off. Installing the new one was as simple as spinning it on and torqueing it with a 21mm socket.
I replaced the coolant pipe, and put everything back together. Car fired up like a champ, brakes work great, and no codes!
Looks like a success!
Dekota
#3
Good job on not giving up on the repairs. Unfortunately some of the repair procedures in the FSM are written up as if there is no way to do anything without the MUT-II tool. In reality, most of them can be done without it. Having the MUT-II tool would help to diagnose some of the components without disassembly but it is not required for actual repairs.
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