I've got 150k on my 3.0L - I've had it for a few months. Acouple questions:</P>


The damn emissions light came on at exactly 150k the other day - is this just a computer reset that anybody can do?</P>


I'm going to have the timing belt replaced - simple procedure? How much should I expect this to set me back?</P>


Are the brake pads/rotors easy to change on this car?</P>


Thanks.</P>

 

I do believe that light came on automatically. In a fit of stupidity some years ago I had mine disabled without asking for a quote. It required removal of the dash and really set me back. However, the light doesn't come on any more.</P>


I last had the timing belt replaced at 120,000 miles at my Mitsubishi dealership. I believe the total cost was around $700 but that included all new hoses and belts as well as flushing all the coolant.</P>


I recently had brakes repaired on all 4 wheels. The front cost twice as much as the rear because, according to the service guy, "we have to remove all the 4 wheel drive stuff." All 4 wheels cost me $300. My guess is the rear pads are fairly easy to change, but the front are difficult. I have had two rotors replaced and a caliper as well. These were not what I considered expensive repairs.</P>


However, wait til you need a tune-up. That's when the Montero shows poor engineering. The intake plenum has to be removed to get to the spark plugs. Fortunately, the Mitsubishi dealership here is loaded with good mechanics and a great customer service ethic. Still a tune-up will cost $300 or so.</P>


As you can see, I do very little repair work on my own. The only mechanical component I have replaced was the master cylinder. I won't be much mechanical help, but I have had the vehicle a good long time and know it pretty well.</P>

 

Thanks Moontero. My service guy wants 379 for the timing belt, and 180 for the front brakes, assuming that the rotors will not need to be replaced.</P>


Have you had any issues with your radiator? Mine has some pinholes in it that are "bubbling."</P>


P.S. I'm getting a consistent 15.8 or so MPG with mixed driving - what are you getting, and what does the EOA say we should be getting?</P>

 

I haven't had any troubles with the radiator at all. The Valvoline Instant Oil Change folks are telling me my coolant is dirty right now and it should be flushed but I am skeptical of flushing all fluids at one time in any system, so I haven't done anything yet.</P>


The $180 for the fronts sounds good if that includes turning the rotors.</P>


My gas mileage is significantly higher. I get right at 20 MPG on the highway and I average about 17 in town. I always use Shell gas. However, having said that, my speedometer has never read correctly and since I bought the car used (24,000 miles)I have always suspected somebody changed the gearing in it. At 65 MPH I am running about 2900 RPM - how does that compare to yours?</P>


BTW - the gas guage no longer works correctly, I have some dash indicator lights out and the power locks are slowly failing. The brakes have always been the worst problem but since I found new brake guys that has gotten better. I have always had a little highway vibration that is very inconsistent too and the tires haven't always worn well. </P>


Still, I love this thing. When I want to get somewhere that is difficult I reach down and put it in four wheel and I go. I love that it's a real truck and has real 4 wheel drive and not that silly twist button on the dash. I have never had a vehicle this long or put so many miles on one. I am probably going to replace it in 2004 with a newer Montero but I am afraid they are a little too prissy. </P>

 

I have changed my brake pads twice on my 2000 Montero Sport and the front pads are easy, while the back brake pads are much more difficult. 4 wheel drive didn't have any impact on changing the front pads</P>

 

Hello Shawnsharper,

This forum thing new to me, but I do have some info for you on the timing belt and brakes.

I have a 95 Montero with the 3.0L 24 Valve motor; I have had it about 18months. If you decide to do the job yourself, be careful about the parts. Napa, Advanced auto, Pep Boys all list the 95 3.0L as a 12 valve motor and the parts are no the same. It took me 1 1/2 days to change the timing belt, tensioner, spark plugs, plug wires, new belts, hoses, and valve cover gaskets. The biggest problem was finding the last bolt that goes through the intake manifold (it is on the back side, ie: towards the firewall, just past the intake), and finding parts. All the parts I had gotten were wrong. Even from the dealer. Make sure the engine they are looking up is a 24 valve if you have a 95 or newer Montero. This is not a hard job, but if you are going to do it make sure you have plenty of time and the right parts to start with.

All the bolts were metric, and since you have to take out the radiator, clutch fan, hoses, and belts. You might as well replace what you can afford, or figure won't make the next 60k miles. It is true on the 24 valve 3.0L engine that you have to remove the intake to change the plugs, and I am going to have to do it again this week, after about 24k miles. Again there is nothing crazy or difficult here, just a lot of stuff to take off and allot to put back on. The cams line up very easy, there is no distributor to mess with.

Brakes,

I could find any spec's for the rotors, my experience has been if they have been turned once before or are warped (vibration in the peddle) just buy new rotors. I had the vibration so I went to ebay and got all new rotors.

Rotors
In the front you need to take off the 6 bolts for the Hub, then a snap ring, then a phillips screw that holds a keyed ring, then there is a threaded ring that holds the bearings in. You then need to remove the caliper ( I think it was two bolts) then there are 6 little bolts that hold the rotor to the hub.

In the rear, there are two threaded holes in the rotor, just release your emergency brake, and I think there was a Phillips screw. Then put two bolts in the threaded holes and tighten them up. That will pull the rotor off of the brake shoe’s (yes there are disk and drum brakes both on the back). The little drum in the center of the rotor is used for the emergency brakes.

Pads

It seems like there were just two bolts to get the caliper off in the front and in the back. You just swing the caliper out of the way, and clean up the bolts, take the little clips off of the old pads and put them on the new pads, keep your fingers off the pads if you can, I can't remember for sure, but I think there are little rubber boots on the bolts that need to have grease replaced. I then spray the rotor and pads with some brake cleaner. Bolt it back up, and go.


I'm sorry I can't be more specific, that was about 2 months and 3 brake jobs ago, hope this helps

 

Since changing the timing belt is such a big job, replace all the belts, hoses and water pump too. As far as the spark plugs, since it is such a big job you should only use the OEM plugs. I think they are ND platinum which cost about $20 each. However, they should last 60k miles.

I have 147k on my Montero with the original rotors, never turned. They have no grooves in them. Amazing huh? I replace the pads only and use the Bendix "Import quiet - IQ" pads. I have tried others and they squeel.