Hello, on my 2007 Outlander I have a very irritating problem with brake pads. Brake pads are moving (mainly vertically) inside brake caliper, making 'click' noise almost every time I press brake. I've replaced brake discs (ATE), brake pads (tried BREMBO, TEXTAR and finally ATE- I've thought maybe pads dimensions were wrong), brake shims (number 5 on photo), and brake accessory kit (number 8 on photo). However, brake pads are still moving vertically and hitting part number 8, no matter what I do.
Almost identical thing happens with rear brake pads.
Did anyone had the similar problem, and if did, how did you solved it?
Thanks in advance.

 

I had similar occur when I changed to slotted front discs (because the originals had a slight warp) and non-Mitsubishi pads. It sounded that there was slight abrading (like the pad overlapping the machined area of the disc) but it all looked ok. I left it for a few 1000km but it kept making the noise so I removed the pads to see what was happening.

The new pads came with one shim glued to the each pad so I used the original outer shim with the new pad shim. But, when I removed the pads, I could see the new shim on one pad had actually moved around the pad and had fret marks on it. I removed the new glued shims and fitted the original Mitsubishi shims to the new pads. That fixed the noise and you can see disc contact surfaces look better (previously they looked to have abrasion lines, but felt smooth).

 

Thanks for the reply.
All aftermarket pads that I could find have those glued shims on them. I've tried using them without original shims, but the same thing happened. I've also tried installing original shims on top of glued shims, but nothing changed. The only thing I haven't tried was to remove glued shims and to install original shims instead of them.
So, that solved the problem for you completely?

 

I didn't quite get the story correct on first recollection. The original outer shim (on the outside of the vehicle) didn't fit over the glued shim nicely because the glued shim had a tab in the centre, like the original outer shim. So I installed the pads with the glued shims only. I recall there was only one shim on the original inside pad so I didn't fit the OEM inside shim over the glued shim. Looking at the manual for my 2011 MY12 there is only a single shim on the vehicle inside but 2 on the outside.


When I refitted everything I removed the outer glued shim and used the two OEM shims on the outside pad. For the inside (I think) I fitted the OEM shim with glued shim, as the OEM inside pad shim was different to the outer pad shims and did fit over the glued shim. (I still have the parts but can't check at the moment)


That did fix the problem.

 

I just had a look at my rear brake pads since I was thinking of replacing them. As it happened, the pads still had some thickness left, so I decided to leave them. However, I noticed that the pad shim had a clip to hold it to the caliper, and there weren't all these other shims and clips immediately apparent. Is this normal? Having a pad with just this external clip screwed on sure would be convenient!

My car is a 2011 Outlander ES FWD, now with 75K miles.

 

I've tried removing glued shim,but same thing happens again, so I guess it isn't the same problem you had

 

are you guys applying a thin film of caliper grease between the shim and the pad? That is supposed to help with noises by absorbing energy between the brakes/shim/caliper. Must use caliper grease as it holds up to higher temps.

 

Are #8 and #5 OEM or aftermarket? I find that OEM steel is much better quality and fit than aftermarket. I find cleaning and reusing OEM #8 is better (unless it is damaged). It should not be moving up/down. #5 aftermarket is OK with a liberal amount of “CRC disc quite” (or something similar). This stuff acts as an insulation layer while bonding the shim onto the pad.


Did you apply a thin coating of “CRC disc quite” (or something similar) on the surface area between #7 and #5? You should also clean and apply small amount of “sil-glyde” (aka caliper grease) where #7 and #8 mounts. You also need to clean the caliper slider pins thoroughly and apply sil-glyde on the pins to ensure the caliper is not binding.

 

Thanks for replies. I have applied copper grease between #7 and #5.
#5 is OEM, and #8 is Bosch (I have oem #8, but the reason I have removed oem is that I had that sound with it, so I thought aftermarket will fix it). Slider pins are cleaned and applied 'red grease' on them as advised from Mitsubishi service.

 

just returned from my friends' garage, the problem is not in shims, but in caliper or pads... I've recorded a video:

So Brembo,Textar and ATE pads do the same thing. so far no solution