I have a 2008 Mitsubishi Outlander XLS and the A/C for the most part is blowing hot air. Does anyone know the type of refrigerant used for the Outlander? Would those DIY canisters at Pep Boys get the job done?

 

Check for leak at first. If your air conditioner is low on refrigerant, it can be recharged to combat this issue. There could also be a problem with the air conditioner's compressor. Vents will blow hot air if the compressor does not activate when the A/C is turned on. To find out if the air conditioner's compressor is causing hot air to come from your vents, you can test it by connecting its clutch wire to a battery. If the compressor fails to turn, it is likely that you will need to have it replaced. You can refer this link AC Compressor - Buy Auto Parts | Free Shipping on above $50 to learn about AC Compressor.

 

AC is a closed system.

Look for any connection with a build-up of greasy dirt. That is your leak. You can get a product called DyTel that will show up the leak, but you first have to have a working compressor. If the compressor clutch engages while the engine is running and the compressor is turning, you can add the dytel to the system with a kit from Pep Boys.

Best is to fix the leaks(s), so you don't have to go thru this again.

You can get a kit that has a leak-stop, lubricant and R134a refrigerant.

Best is to evacuate the system. (Pull the vacuum with a vacuum pump), with gauges attached. Check to see if the system holds vacuum. Then recharge using the proper amount of R134a. The capacity should be on a sticker on the system somewher under the hood.
If you use a diy kit, connect the charging hose to the low side port, and add 1 can (12 oz). This is with the engine running and the A/C set to Max.

If you still have kind of cool air, add 1 more can. You should have a thermometer inserted into the center vent. If you can get it to 50 deg, you should be good to go. DO NOT add more R134a than the system has capacity for. You WILL destroy the compressor seals and probably the compressor clutch.

The only thing that the power wire to the compressor will do is engage the clutch, allowing the compressor to work. It needs to have the engine running for the comressor to turn and have the clutch engage and dis engage.

 

This from a different forum-checking compressor clutch :


With the engine "off" disconnect the electrical connection to the AC Compressor Clutch and "jump" the clutch with 12V battery power. If the clutch engages, your problem is elsewhere

(compressor will not turn, only checking the clutch action)

 

just about all new vehicles use R-134a. I'll echo much of what milliesdad said. I'll advise against those quick jobs at auto parts stores. You can get a set of gaugues for $50-$80 and that will give you a better idea what is happening on the low side and high side. you can use your gauges to add dye and more coolant.
I checked mine out last summer and I was just slightly low, based on ambient temp and my pressures. We topped it off and it did help some. This summer I plan on doing my Ranger.
This video does everything just about right, with the exception he let in outside air via the fill hose.