Brake fluid/PS fluid change
#13
04-25-2013, 01:41 PM
Hey thanks everyone...
Sounds like the consensus is to change both (at the very least the brake fluid)
I'm having a that weird noise coming on when I am braking (had another post about it), but doing some searches on the net, it sounds like this is a suspensions issue since others describe the EXACT situation I am in (weird braking CREAKING when applying brakes only in forward motion)
I'll probably get a garage to change out the fluid - I wouldn't feel comfortable doing anything myself on a car (especially brake stuff). The thing is, it is coming up on 3.5 years since I bought the truck, and apparently there is still good amounts of pad left, so I probably will get it replaced when I get new pads on...whenever that will be.
Thanks!
Sounds like the consensus is to change both (at the very least the brake fluid)
I'm having a that weird noise coming on when I am braking (had another post about it), but doing some searches on the net, it sounds like this is a suspensions issue since others describe the EXACT situation I am in (weird braking CREAKING when applying brakes only in forward motion)
I'll probably get a garage to change out the fluid - I wouldn't feel comfortable doing anything myself on a car (especially brake stuff). The thing is, it is coming up on 3.5 years since I bought the truck, and apparently there is still good amounts of pad left, so I probably will get it replaced when I get new pads on...whenever that will be.
Thanks!
#14
04-25-2013, 02:11 PM
The creaking I can almost guarantee is your lower control arm bushings. Do NOT replace them with an aftermarket variety, because they use substandard rubber for their bushings and tend to wear out twice as fast. Stick with OEM Mitsubishi control arms and bushings. You may be shelling out an arm and a leg for them though...
You should also know that this influences your braking distance and tire wear, because of the way it will change the steering geometry under braking consequently reducing the rubber contact to the road.
It could also be sway bar bushings/end links, they are fairly cheap parts and they are not complicated to replace. This is something you can get greasy and do in your driveway. Same thing with the control arms actually. Very simple, just remove and replace. As long as you aren't leaving bolts tightened like a sissy, you're fine.
You should also know that this influences your braking distance and tire wear, because of the way it will change the steering geometry under braking consequently reducing the rubber contact to the road.
It could also be sway bar bushings/end links, they are fairly cheap parts and they are not complicated to replace. This is something you can get greasy and do in your driveway. Same thing with the control arms actually. Very simple, just remove and replace. As long as you aren't leaving bolts tightened like a sissy, you're fine.
#15
04-25-2013, 02:23 PM
I was very surprised by how long the OEM brakes lasted. I changed mine out at 70k miles and only changed the pads out with Wagner ThermoQuiets. I left the rotors as-is and have had no issues.
Do change the PSF. My wife had a Grand Am that only lasted 110k miles. One thing she never did was change out the fluid and the rack&pinion died an early death. Outlander is already past that in mileage and runs like a top. Proper maintenance goes a long way...pardon the pun.
Do change the PSF. My wife had a Grand Am that only lasted 110k miles. One thing she never did was change out the fluid and the rack&pinion died an early death. Outlander is already past that in mileage and runs like a top. Proper maintenance goes a long way...pardon the pun.
#16
04-25-2013, 02:27 PM
You aren't kidding!
I used to whip my little Nissan daily. Once the temperatures were warmed up, I probably redlined that car 50-100 times a day, sometimes more. One particular day I was full throttle for almost 30 minutes, and the car never skipped a beat.
In order to make sure I wasn't doing damage, I did a compression test every few months, and I always changed my oil at a reasonable interval with the highest quality lubricants. I also took the time to investigate, isolate, and resolve any strange noises I heard during my ownership of the car. The compression was as perfect as it was the day it left the factory, not one psi of deviation. I bought the car with 26k on it, and it had 68k when the moron illiterate Mexican t-boned me
That car was a true testament to how a vehicle can withstand consistent racing level stress, and survive quite happily with the appropriate prerequisite measures. How hard you drive the vehicle doesn't matter, it's all how you maintain it.
I used to whip my little Nissan daily. Once the temperatures were warmed up, I probably redlined that car 50-100 times a day, sometimes more. One particular day I was full throttle for almost 30 minutes, and the car never skipped a beat.
In order to make sure I wasn't doing damage, I did a compression test every few months, and I always changed my oil at a reasonable interval with the highest quality lubricants. I also took the time to investigate, isolate, and resolve any strange noises I heard during my ownership of the car. The compression was as perfect as it was the day it left the factory, not one psi of deviation. I bought the car with 26k on it, and it had 68k when the moron illiterate Mexican t-boned me
That car was a true testament to how a vehicle can withstand consistent racing level stress, and survive quite happily with the appropriate prerequisite measures. How hard you drive the vehicle doesn't matter, it's all how you maintain it.
Last edited by Sebba; 04-25-2013 at 02:33 PM.
#17
05-24-2013, 07:36 AM
REPLACE BOTH!
Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it pulls moisture from anything. Over time, brake fluid will accumulate a certain amount of water/air and consequently will reduce your braking force and the boiling point of the fluid. I have boiled old brake fluid before, and you lose all braking. It should be replaced every 3-4 years.
As for the PS fluid, there are conditioners to keep the pump lubricated. If the fluid smells burnt, or is not its original color, replace it. This is actually super simple and easy. Most vehicles (check your owners manual) use automatic transmission fluid for the power steering. Only Hondas and some other European makes use a special power steering fluid specifically for that purpose. There are two hoses going to your power steering reservoir, one is a suction, the other is the return.
In order to change your brake fluid, here's what you do:
1) Open the brake fluid cap
2) Crack open all bleed nipples on the calipers and let them drip
3) MAKE SURE THE RESERVOIR STAYS FULL. Never let it suck in air.
4) When all the fluid dripping looks sparking clean, start closing them off, starting from the furthest from the brake master cylinder, to the closest. Without this, you may have a mushy pedal.
To change the PS fluid:
The hose on the bottom of the PS reservoir is the suction, you want to place that hose into the fresh can of PS fluid. The return hose, you should place into an old milk jug or something. Then start the car, and turn the wheel all the way to the left, then the right. You will want to have someone else do this, so that you can make sure the fluid is always being sucked up. Make sure it doesn't suck air as that'll harm the pump over time. You may need a couple quarts for this. When the fluid out of the return line looks like the fluid going in, stop. Then reattach the hoses, fill the reservoir, start the car one more time, and turn the wheel all the way in each direction again. NEVER hold the wheel against either steering lock for anything more than a second, this will burn out the pump. You'll notice it may make an ugly sound when you do.
After that, you should have fresh brake fluid, and fresh power steering fluid coursing through.
Hope that helps! Don't be afraid to pick up some wrenches
Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it pulls moisture from anything. Over time, brake fluid will accumulate a certain amount of water/air and consequently will reduce your braking force and the boiling point of the fluid. I have boiled old brake fluid before, and you lose all braking. It should be replaced every 3-4 years.
As for the PS fluid, there are conditioners to keep the pump lubricated. If the fluid smells burnt, or is not its original color, replace it. This is actually super simple and easy. Most vehicles (check your owners manual) use automatic transmission fluid for the power steering. Only Hondas and some other European makes use a special power steering fluid specifically for that purpose. There are two hoses going to your power steering reservoir, one is a suction, the other is the return.
In order to change your brake fluid, here's what you do:
1) Open the brake fluid cap
2) Crack open all bleed nipples on the calipers and let them drip
3) MAKE SURE THE RESERVOIR STAYS FULL. Never let it suck in air.
4) When all the fluid dripping looks sparking clean, start closing them off, starting from the furthest from the brake master cylinder, to the closest. Without this, you may have a mushy pedal.
To change the PS fluid:
The hose on the bottom of the PS reservoir is the suction, you want to place that hose into the fresh can of PS fluid. The return hose, you should place into an old milk jug or something. Then start the car, and turn the wheel all the way to the left, then the right. You will want to have someone else do this, so that you can make sure the fluid is always being sucked up. Make sure it doesn't suck air as that'll harm the pump over time. You may need a couple quarts for this. When the fluid out of the return line looks like the fluid going in, stop. Then reattach the hoses, fill the reservoir, start the car one more time, and turn the wheel all the way in each direction again. NEVER hold the wheel against either steering lock for anything more than a second, this will burn out the pump. You'll notice it may make an ugly sound when you do.
After that, you should have fresh brake fluid, and fresh power steering fluid coursing through.
Hope that helps! Don't be afraid to pick up some wrenches
Thanks for this response...
The brake fluid seems a bit beyond what I can do
The PS change seems doable. Does anyone know what to use for PS fluid? Does Mitsuibishi have a specific fluid for this?
Also, How do you not suck air up when the hose is in the bottle of fluid unless it is see through? Also when you say STOP when the fluid coming out looks the same as going in..stop what? Turnning the wheel or turn off the car? I am 100% new at this stuff
What color is the fluid supposed to be? Yesterday looking at the reservoir, it looks dark (brownish).
Thanks!!
#18
05-24-2013, 01:14 PM
You can't top up a reservoir while it drips out of the brake lines? It's that easy.
The powersteering takes automatic transmission fluid, and should be a cherry red. Brown = bad. Once the fluid coming out of the return looks like the fluid going in, cut off the engine.
The powersteering takes automatic transmission fluid, and should be a cherry red. Brown = bad. Once the fluid coming out of the return looks like the fluid going in, cut off the engine.
#19
05-24-2013, 01:44 PM
The dealer said NOT to put ATF fluid.
Can we get a poll of what people used for power steering fluid in their second generation outlander?
As for the brakes, yeah, I think even I could do that
#20
05-24-2013, 02:10 PM
Of course they did. Why do you think that might be?
https://mitsubishiforum.com/forum/mi...erience-40320/
Here's the best stuff: Power Steering Fluid « Chris Ness – Amsoil Independent Dealer – Mississauga, Ontario
And here the discussion appears again. Check out ccernst's post on here as well (you're a popular guy!
): What is genuine mitsubishi power steering fluid? - Bob Is The Oil Guy
Ultimately the choice is yours, but if it were me, I'd be using ATF.
https://mitsubishiforum.com/forum/mi...erience-40320/
Here's the best stuff: Power Steering Fluid « Chris Ness – Amsoil Independent Dealer – Mississauga, Ontario
And here the discussion appears again. Check out ccernst's post on here as well (you're a popular guy!
): What is genuine mitsubishi power steering fluid? - Bob Is The Oil GuyUltimately the choice is yours, but if it were me, I'd be using ATF.