Today I had to buy an 1156 daytime running light for our 2010 Outlander XLS w HID.

The only difference between a regular old 1156 lamp and the Mit 1156 lamp [Mit. part no. MS820949; writing on lamp: Stanley 12V32CP(27W)LL] is that the regular lamp bulges out like a regular lamp does and the Mit 1156 is almost a cylinder with parallel sides.

Well, believe it or not the local dealer charged me $19.50 for one lamp! I could have bought a regular-shaped lamp for $5 at a parts store.

As far as I can tell, the two lamps' electrical specifications are identical. Will the inexpensive regular-shaped lamp fit as well as the Mit lamp? Anyone tried them?

Thanks.

(Regardless, I'll definitely try one of the following before shelling out another $20 for a single lamp:
1156 12V 32CP Automotive Miniature Light Bulb, Replacement Lamp

Wattage: 26.88W at 12.8V, 25.2W at 12V
Voltage: 12.8V for 12V Systems
Amperage: 2.1
Base: Single Contact Bayonet, BA15s, S. C. Bayonet, SC Bayonet
Mean Spherical Candlepower: 32 MSCP
Glass: S8, S-8, 1 Inch Diameter Clear Glass, P8
Filament: C-6
Maximum Overall Length: MOL 2"/50.8mm
Maximum Overall Diameter: MOD 1"/26.4mm
Light Center Length: LCL 1.25"/31.8mm
Average Rated Life: 1200 Hours
Alternate Part Numbers: 800203, GE1156, SYL1156, JKL1156, E1156, W1156, CM1156, 40190)

BTW, the "LL" designation at the end of 12V32CP(27W)LL stands for "Long Life" ("up to twice the life of standard lamp", so, in this case, up to 2400 hours). For example: SylvaniaŽ Long Life 1156LL - Light Bulb | O'Reilly Auto Parts
Notice in the above specifications that the diameter of the glass is 1". My caliper tells me the Mit lamp is 3/4", so the glass on the standard lamp "poke's out" a mere 1/8" more than the Mit lamp on either side of the center line of the glass.
Therefore, as far as I can tell, Mitsubishi's Stanley 1156 12V32CP(27W)LL lamp is indentical in every way to the Sylvania 1156LL, except the shape and diameter of the glass "bulb" and, perhaps significantly, that little "hip" on the metal body of the OEM, as shown below:

Mit lamp (burned):


Standard Sylvania 1156LL:



Applicability of the Sylvania 1156LL for Outlander:

 

$20 per bulb is highway robbery, especially considering the dismal light output of the #1156 DRL (barely visible in daylight). My suggestion, increase your Outlander's conspicuousness (and your safety) by purchasing a pair of #3497's. Each bulb draws 27-watts like an #1156 but outputs more light:

• #1156 (27-watt) = 32 candlepower
• #2396 (28-watt) = 40 cp (for comparison)
• #3497 (27-watt) = 45 cp

BE WARNED, most of the #3497 bulbs being sold by online vendors are poorly-made junk. I'd suggest getting the genuine Stanley bulb directly from a Honda dealership. The Honda dealer nearby didn't have them in stock so I purchased them at Majestic Honda (HondaAutomotiveParts) for ~$4 per bulb.

I mentioned this and other bulb upgrades in this thread: Bulb Upgrades!

 

Thanks for the information about the 3497 and particularly for the photo. Dimensions-wise, the thing looks absolutely identical in every way to the Mit. lamp, including the shape of the glass and the hip on the metal part.

I don't really care if the running lights are that bright -- just that they are working, so the one and only question I would have is whether the 3497, because of it's higher light output, would last as long as the 1156LL. But if for some reason the 1156LL cannot be used as a substitue for the Mit. lamp, the 3497 might still be a $16 better option than $20.

Thanks again.

Edit. Just did a brief search for the average life of a Stanley 3497 but I could not find any specific to Stanley, but I did find some for Sylvania (which might in fact be provided by Stanley).

The Slyvania 3497LL specs are shown here:
Sylvania/Brake Light Bulb (3497LL) | AutoZone.com
The average life is 730 hours, so apparently there is a fairly big drop in lifetime versus the 1156 for those extra candles.

The Sylvania 1156 specs:
Sylvania/Back-Up Light Bulb (1156) | AutoZone.com
1200 hours for the 1156 and, presumably, 2400 hours for the 1156LL.

 

All 3 bulbs (#1156LL, #1156, #3497) are compatible with the OE socket. Also, the #1157 with a wider glass envelope will fit inside the assembly's bulb opening.

No, an #1156LL bulb will outlast a standard #1156, which will outlast a #3497.
Transversely, the #3497 will be brighter than the standard #1156, which will be brighter than the #1156LL.

In general, brighter = shorter life / dimmer = longer life

Personally, I care more about the functionality of the DRLs than the lifespan of a $4 bulb.

 

Much of my driving life was spent in vehicles that had no daytime running lights -- before the insurance companies had enough money to buy political slaves who would do their wishes (to pass legislation requiring everything from anti-lock brakes, to air bags of ever-increasing number and complexity, to hands-free phones).

Now in Canada, all vehicles after a certain year of manufacture have to have at least daytime running lights on all the time.

Ok, against my wishes I will comply, but with the dimmest, longest-lived bulb that I can find.

 

So you don't believe anti-lock brakes, air bags and DRLs increase people's safety?? Overwhelming amounts of contrary, objective data be damned! It's a secret government agenda!! Keep wearing that tinfoil hat, big guy!

 

It's about freedom of choice -- an increasingly rare commodity as time goes on.

For example, some people choose to ride a motorcyle. IMO, that's a far more inherently dangerous thing to do than operate a vehicle that does not have DRL, anti-lock brakes, air bags, etc., and I'd at least like to have the freedom to buy a much less expensive vehicle that does not have all of the safety devices that are now mandated by law.

In the future, after motocycles are banned, all of the safety devices imaginable are installed on vehicles and the driver is no longer allowed to have one iota of alcohol in his/her blood, to talk to the person sitting next to him/her or listen to the radio, then the insurance companies' emphasis will no doubt shift to decreasing speed limits -- the last great, untapped reservoir of "safety".

After all, if the highway speed limit as well as most city and residential speeds were reduced to say 25 mph or less, that would probably save literally tens of thousands of lives each and every year. And if saving lives is the overwhelming priority, immediately lowering speed limits should be at the top of the safety agenda.

 

A 2013 Hyundai Veloster Turbo is loaded to the gills with safety features, has lots of standard features, and the option to do completely stupid things if you so chose; all for only $22k US.

Not the most powerful compact on the market but plenty powerful for an exciting suicide or murder-suicide at an affordable price.

Motorcycles? Those aren't going away in our or our children's or our grandchildren's lifetimes. If you really need to go faster than 186 mph on a ZX-14, then you can make a few, minor modifications to do so - granted, you void your warranty but Kawasaki didn't it make it impossible or difficult for folks to modify their bikes.

 

You know, you could buy an 1156 LED for it. I bought some for my tent trailer and they're pretty bright, and draw a fraction of the power with none of the heat.

 

I don't think they increase safety for a competent driver, in fact I find anti-lock brakes dangerous.