My 2007 Outlander has been doing the same for a month or so. I saw on here to look at the seals on the turbo ducting. I have just replaced the seals for the turbo outlet and the throttle body inlet. The throttle body inlet duct seals were considerably worn when compared to the new. I just took her for a blast 4th gear 4000rpm up hill and no issues fingers crossed it will last. I have pictures of the bits I changed but how do you upload pictures on here?

 

The new seal did last for a while but unfortunately the problem did rear it's ugly head again . I have replaced the front pipe leading into the EGR valve I believe ( this is behind the radiator at the top). Yep cost me£100 too. So far so good. I have just completed a 2000 mile journey to the south of France and back going through the mountains and have had an exceptional time with the car. No faults as yet.

 

I'd like to share my experience with "loss of power" issue. I've drove my Outlander III 2.2DiD 2013 (EU version, diesel) and suddenly power was lost, limp mode is activated and the CEL turned on. Fortunately car is on the warranty (2.7 years old) but, unfortunately, mid of July in Sweden is a vacation period meaning that no Mitsubishi specialists were available. After 3 weeks they replaced solenoid valve (see pictures) controlling the vacuum pipe which in turn controls another vacuum valve sitting on turbo charger.

Actually I have checked resistance of that solenoid and it was within the acceptable range 10-14 Ohm (or kOhm?). Anyway, it is known that they can be broken in a way that electrically everything is fine though mechanically there is an operational fault.

EDIT:
And the error code was P0299. I've tried to clear it but it (+limp mode) appeared again if RPMs goes above 1500 or so. Faulty solenoid had to be changed in my case.

 

Hi guys first post here, but I have been following this post from the outset as My 2007 2.0 Outlander developed the same problem. When it did display the EMU light the code thrown up was for the turbo overboots. With 150,000 on the clock I was pretty sure it was going to be coked up turbo vanes so shelled out for a replacement turbo.

Got it back and it ran great for a while. Then the loss of power happened again, this time displaying a fault with the EGR. Stating it was not allowing enough oxygen through. Therefore stuck in the open position. But turning the ignition off and then back on cleared the problem and full power was restored. Until tonight.

Towing the caravan 100 miles away from home and it drops into limp mode. But no matter what I do, no matter how many times I turned the ignition of and back on it just stays in limp mode. Could the EGR cause this? The turbo does sound noisy as if its cutting in, but just not producing power. The recovery driver suggested a stuck waste gate. where is that located and how do I test it? It pugged in his diagnostic machine and it was showing the EGR fault. He cleared the fault down, but still no power.

After 2hours waiting for recovery and a further 2 hours sitting in a recovery truck. My 7 year love affair with my Outlander is getting a bit thread bare.

 

Yet more common faults with this horrible 2.0 vag engine! Egr would cause this, but you need correct diagnosis and not from a recovery guy. For starters it doesn't have a wastegate they are variable geometry turbos and on this thread i have explained how to clear them up so they work fine again without the need for a new one, however you have already forked out for one! I find it hard to believe its gone again. Usually the same carbon deposits that messed up your turbo originally will also mess up your entire intake system including the egr valve. Take the main intake pipe off and inspect around the egr inlet valve to see what its like. The flaps on the intake will probably be seized or seizing too. But you did say its noisy so maybe you have a split pipe some where also causing a lack of power. If its sort of a whooshing then check the intake hoses for splits, especially if the intake is choked up around the egr valve as its more likely the combination of a new working turbo and a blocked inlet would put large strains on the pipework. The usual culprit is from the turbo and intercooler that goes down the crank pulley side of the engine, again especially if someone has had these off to replace the turbo and not put the securing bolts back in! Hope this helps😃

 

I have just dropped the main pipe off, that connects to the EGR valve to find its got a lot of oil around the connection point.

Surely this isn't normal?

And how in gods name do you take the rear bolt out of the EGR to remove it?

Cheers for your help on this.

 

Looks fairly normal. Incidentally if you know a bit or 2 you can check the vanes of your turbo by disconnecting the cotrol rod from the turbo end (not the actuator end) and you should be able to freely move the arm. But as yours is fairly new i would hope its ok.

As regards the rear bolt i cant remember now, its been a few years but seem to recall there is 1 bolt thats a **** 😃 ! A whole lot of fettling and trying different tools. I cant remember well but i think i had to remove virtually everything else before i could even tickle it ! What you're really looking for here is thick sticky black **** that is carbon mixed with that oil and it blocks everything right up. If it continues to be a fault after cleaning (specific fault code not erasing for this fault) then blank it and have it mapped out of the ecu 😃

 

Ohhh, I wish so much to map out that stupid EGR from my Outlander III...

Please post successful EGR-disabling stories on https://mitsubishiforum.com/forum/in...ing-egr-46734/

 

Well the EGR is off and this is what I found.



Hopefully this is the route cause of my problems now and satisfactory service will resume once I fit the new one.

 

Hi, Its been a few years since i sold my grandis d.i.d but would think this fairly simple (maybe someone could correct me who has done it recently)

This is a 2.0tdi VAg engine, it seems nearly all if not all are running a Bosch EDC16 ecu. Id need to know that first. Some 2.0tdi's run a siemens set up and it can still be done but is a bit more complicated.

I would think as the actuator pictured is vacuum operated if you disconnected the vac line, it would remain perm shut. Then remove ecu from car (better then via obd) and remap with all egr related data off (approx £150-200 if you need to get someone to do this for you) if you want to get into this yourself you would need to buy probably a good KTAG clone from china, but be careful which one you get as they may need to be reworked. Then ask for an EGR off file from someone that knows what they are doing. (approx 50e for a good map file)

Once the ecu is reprogrammed it wont recognise theres any fault with EGR system, even though the vac hose is off. You may need to do more work depending on what type of valve opens to let the exhaust gas through.

I have EGR off files as well as DPF off.

EGR is of no benefit to the engine, in fact its quite the opposite. The ECU decides how much to open the poppet vale (in this case) in the picture depending upon load. On full throttle the valve is shut, and when doddering its open quite a bit. This is the reason wht cars that get a good thrashing all of the time (like the high motorway milers) dont get this problem so much. EGR is purely for enviornmental reasons and manufacturers must fit them. When open they allow a small percentage of exhaust gas to recuirculate into the intake and this has the affect of lowering combustion temperatures due to the fact that it doesnt burn very well. This in turn then means that the vehicle produces less nitrous oxide which is harmful to the enviornment and causes acid rain amongst other things.The price it comes with is less performance and more blockages, which is why the valve shuts at full throttle.

Hope this help you all