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Tie rods problem

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  #11  
Old 05-22-2014, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Akzle
you obviously dont have the knowledge, skills or tools to do it yourself. So yes.
maybe stanza does have the tools...maybe time is an issue...have you ever thought of that akzle? of course not...you just love being rude to people..... they come here for help and advice... honestly it was a very good question imo... how is asking if a price is fair ignorant and dumb??? maybe you should keep your thoughts and opinions to your self... just sayin...thank yu have a good day
 
  #12  
Old 05-22-2014, 08:17 PM
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I think that's way too much money for replacing two tie rod ends, but if it includes an alignment, at least that lessens the pain a bit.

In case you are interested, this is a pretty easy job, even for a first-time DIYr, and you need just a few tools. The genuine Mit replacement end is around $50 each, so $100 for two, plus whatever you'll pay for an alignment, so probably well under $200 total. And if you go with aftermarket ends such as the following,
PartsTrain.com - Hard to Find Auto Parts and Truck Parts -
the total drops considerably. You might get out of it for less than $150.

This is a photo of the driver's outer tie rod end on a 2003 (viewed from behind the rear of the front wheel toward the front of the vehicle). I think the '08 tie rod end will be very similar.
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Here's a video of the tie rod end replacement on a Mit. Lancer, including a good suggestion on how to set rough alignment.

Before removing the end from the steering knuckle, loosen the locking nut that prevents the end from loosening on the shaft of the tie rod. In the photo you can sort of see this nut where the shaft of the tie rod enters the nut on the right-most part of the tie rod end.

Then proceed to remove the tie rod end from steering knuckle by first removing the nut on the end of the tapered shaft, where it exits the steering knuckle.

Because you are not going to reuse the old tie rod end, after removing the tie rod end nut, as shown in that video above, just use a heavy hammer to strike the threaded end of the tapered stem to "break free" the tie rod end from the steering knuckle.

After the tie rod end is free, use a pair of locking pliers to prevent the tie rod shaft from turning and then unscrew the tie rod end from the shaft either by hand or, if it's too tight to turn by hand, with a wrench, while carefully counting the number of turns that it takes to release the end.

Screw the new end on the tie rod shaft the same number of turns it took to unscrew the old one. Insert the tapered, threaded shaft of the new end up through the steering knuckle. Screw the nut onto the shaft and tighten it to the recommended torque specification.

If the replacement end comes with a cotter pin, make sure the castle nut that comes with it is installed with the "cut-outs" pointing upward. After tightening the nut to specification, insert the cotter pin through the appropriate cut-out in the nut that is in alignment with the hole in the end of the threaded, tapered shaft and bend it so that it does not fall back through the hole.

Finally, to prevent the rod from turning in the new end, tighten the locking nut on the shaft against the end of the tie rod end (the end of the end ).

Hope this helps.

Good luck.
 
  #13  
Old 07-25-2014, 01:42 AM
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Thanx everyone for your inputs. To make story short, this is what happened.
After reading all your advices, i decided to go to another Mitsu dealer for a second opinion and may be a better price for tie rods.
After inspecting my car, they confirmed that i need new tie rods, the price was 140 less than the first dealer, but also they came up with a list of more than 8 things which according to them, needs to be changed. Total bill was 1700.
Had enough with Mitsu dealer. Took my car to my regular mechanic, fixed tie rods for 170 and he couldnt find anything else wrong with my car.
 
  #14  
Old 07-25-2014, 08:19 AM
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you gotta wonder how successful an independent mechanic would be if they setup shop right next to an auto mall.
 
  #15  
Old 07-25-2014, 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by stanza75
Thanx everyone for your inputs. To make story short, this is what happened.
After reading all your advices, i decided to go to another Mitsu dealer for a second opinion and may be a better price for tie rods.
After inspecting my car, they confirmed that i need new tie rods, the price was 140 less than the first dealer, but also they came up with a list of more than 8 things which according to them, needs to be changed. Total bill was 1700.
Had enough with Mitsu dealer. Took my car to my regular mechanic, fixed tie rods for 170 and he couldnt find anything else wrong with my car.
Did he include alignment for that price? If so, that's a good deal and you didn't even get your hands dirty (or bloodied). If not, and you don't want your tires to wear unevenly and have to be replaced prematurely, get one done. Sometimes places advertise for alignment specials (hoping that they can hoodwink you into some new suspension parts, of course).
 
  #16  
Old 07-26-2014, 01:45 AM
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Default Tie rods

Outlaander- I have firestone lifetime alignment deal. After getting new tie rods, i took my car straight to firestone for alignment.
I think this all experience with Mitsu dealers made me little paranoid. Who knows if i visit them again, they may ask me to change the color of my car and divorce my wife . Seems like they always find something need to be changed
 
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