so i came out to my truck after having it parked by a school to find that someone tried to get my wheels off... great way to end the day. who ever it was was an idiot and tried to turn the lugs the wrong way, snapped one off, could not get the other off, and took 2 of my front and 3 of my rear driver side... so i needless to say i was pissed. figured i would take some pics to show the worlds easiest vehicle to do wheel stud replacement

so... after you get your wheel off, pull the caliper (you can leave the bracket on the caliper and just remove the 2 mount bolts... you can access your wheel hub. use a hanger or zip ties to secure the caliper out of the way so it is not hanging from the brake line... pop that rotor off and you can see what your working with. Thankfully the rotor shield only covers about 1/2 the rotor on these trucks, sure enough i was able to use a hammer and pop the stud out as long as the hub was turned in the front portion of the shield. so turn your car ign on, press brake and put in N. from here you can rotate your hub to line up the wheel stud with the front section of the shield, use a hammer and pop those suckers out


well i found out why they did not get the one lug off the front, they tq'd it the wrong way, and basicly stretched the threads so it snapped right off when i went to take off the wheel



use a bolt, tack a weld inside the lug nut to what is left of the wheel stud an you can simply unscrew this


back on track... so i replaced all 5 on mine, as i did not want to have to do this again... to install then since i did not have to take the hub off, i was not able to use the press to press in the new ones... so simple solution, got some metal collar spacers and used that to take up the slack and the lug nut to pull the stud into place. just make sure it is strait and comes in flush. New wheel studs where at the local O'rielys auto parts for $1.25 each, the shank/ spline no the replacement does not look spot on to the stock but they work perfect and in my opinion are a better stud. when i do brakes next ill prob replace them all

you can see the spacers (use steel) and the collar i used to have a nice flat mount and contact area.


Tighten that sucker up till it is flush and seats, again be sure you are going in strait!

i replaced all 5


slap a bit of anti seize on the hub so the rotor will not be impossible to remove later down the line, and bolt up the caliper and rotor once again, few drops of blue loctite on the rotor mount bolts... since you had to press the brake to put the car in N, you will have to press back in the caliper piston to get it on the rotor again, you can use a c clamp and not even pull the pads, easy



then pop back on the wheel, tq to 80ft lbs in that good ol star pattern... pull the chucks from under the back tires and drop that sucker down



i did this in my drive way, it was cold as ****, but i would bet i do not have 1.5 hours into this start to finish. engineers rarely make things wrench friendly but i do have to say the mitsu crew got this one right! Hope this helps people if they ever snap one of these suckers off!