ok i want to know about how much boost i can run with my current set up...i bought the car with a blown motor and have swapped all the parts onto a new runnin motor and im just wonderin how much boost i can run.. i just replaced the headgasket on the new motor also..

Setup
Garret T3 turbo-watercooled
RC 510 or 550 injectors
RC fuel Pump
S-AFC
FMU i think 12-1
OBX intercooler (huge) dont know the specs on it

I just want to know what the most psi i could possible run with this set up? im gonna get it tuned as soon as its runnin...just curious to know what i can get from it

 

you say you have swapped out all the old parts.... with OEM parts? forged parts? bottom end? top end? both? a lil more specific. on an OEM block you can only run 10 lbs of boost. forged bottom end you can run i think close to 19 or 20 lbs without any head work, after that you'll need to do head work.

 

Sorry...its all OEM parts...only 10 lbs safely? or is that kinda pushin it?

 

put it this way, after ten pounds, your gonna have to rebuild the engine again cuz it wont hold up. So yes 10lbs is fine. If it were me i probably would try and stay in the 8-9lb area because boost can flucuate, so keeping that little room for it to is a good idea.

 

ok thanks...the turbo is already set at 8lbs but i was just seein what is safe and whats not...thanks for ur guys help

 

exactly, thats why hahn sells their wastegates set at 8psi.

 

On OEM bottom end, as others have said it is recommended to stay under 10 pounds of boost, safely 8-9, some people have blown stuff up with less, some peoples motors have stayed healthy with more, a guy made over 300whp on the stock bottom end at 15psi, but he had an excellent tune, and didn't care if he broke something. So yes on average 8-9psi is the max, however there is always a chance of something breaking. You do not need to do any head work after 20psi, the limiting factor there is the stock ignition system. After around 20psi you will start to knock and probably break something if you're not careful. Hahn runs a completely stock head in terms of airflow in his 10 second 420a eclipse so the head is fine. So yea anyways run 8psi but make sure you have a good tune and keep an eye on the EGT gauge, and the wideband A/F gauge, if you have them, which I hope you do.

 

Pics or shens on the 300whp stock bottome end. I have a close personal friend that was running forged pistons and stock rods and that little bitch bent at 14 psi, also he was no where near 300whp... matter factly you would need even more then 15psi to make 33whp with a 420a.

The stock ingition sucks after 10 psi, thats why hahn sells their port fuler system with a msd box.

 

so upgraded the ignition would be a good idea? im gonna get the car fully tuned when its runnin again...thanks for ur guys help

 

Your friend must have had some week rods, the stock rods are good for at least 15psi, usually what goes after 10psi is the ring lands, however with a good tune free from detonation it's pretty safe. Oh and 15psi on a big t3 turbo is plenty to get to 300whp. The stock ignition does not suck after 10psi, I'm running 20 lbs on it daily as we speak, and it's damn near dead on. And hahn doesn't sell their portfueler system with an msd box, or else I would have one, because I run the portfueler on my car. They advise the crane ignition box after 20psi. So no you don't need to upgrade the ignition, you're fine. By the way if you want to be able to tune the car better forget the FMU and get a vortec SFMU. And the SAFC can really only be used to take out a little bit of fuel in our cars. I would suggest just getting an aeromotive 1:1 and run MSnS. Join the 2gnt website and search around, there's more than enough info there to tell you what you want to know.