My 95 has the same problem. It was fine until I replace the idle control sensor. As SOON as I tried to start it. It just dies. I actually have to rev mine and hold it at about 3000 rpm's for a few seconds until it decides to run. It only does this on its first start of the day. I dunno what the hell the problem is. I'm tired of people looking at me like an *** because I'm reving my car. LOL. I replaced the sensor because my check engine light was on and the code it was throwing was for the sensor. No more check engine, it just doesn't start right now. If you figure it out let me know!

 

Chances are good that there is something else wrong. Your ISC was merely trying to compensate for another issue before it burned out (throwing the CEL). You could have a leak, carbon buildup, bad FIAV, bad rubber vacuum lines, etc. What else have you checked?

 

I had a vacuum leak, which I fixed. I checked all the lines. As far as everything else, I actually had my garage look at. I am a female so I dont get to in depth. But im not clueless. Lol. As far as the garage, they said they couldnt find an other problems. But I agree with you, there's another problem here somewhere. I need to have them check out everything you mentioned.

 

Good deal, oh_what_up. Everything that you replaced or removed is what anyone in here would have had you check (except the AFPR of course). Idle issues are usually found in the TB area. FIAV or ISC or both are usually the troublemakers. Not so much the TPS though. The TPS causes throttle position voltage errors. If it's gunked up, then it will cause throttle plate closure issues and so on.
If the ISC is fried on one coil, you will have idle issues either cold or hot (motor). If the ISC is fried, then you will have idle issues cold and hot and that makes it harder to troubleshoot. The FIAV will cause idle issues when cold. The leaking seals can be a boost leak or vacuum leak which can lead to idle issues. And the good 'ol BISS screw o-ring is another constant vacuum leak if it is the original. Having a cap on it helps seal it up better than just the o-ring too.

98gstspy, I suggest you clean out your TB area before buying a new TPS. Before that, I suggest that you ohm it out first. There's a TPS check in the VFAQ for it (I think it was there, or perhaps it's over at Tuner's).
Hell, you could just have a crusty 'ol TB that needs a good cleaning. When was the last time you looked in there? I bet it has oil (old and new) all over the place.

 

Oh_What_Up where did you et all of the parts to do tat throttle body rebuild i cant find anywhere that would sell those parts, the seals and stuff i you could let me kow that would bgreat im in the process of working in that area now so i would like top rebuild the tb scence i am already pulling it off.

 

The shaft seals, gaskets, biss screw, o-ring, and cap came from machv.com and i picked up the block off plate off of ebay. If you don't have a way to set the idle (dsmlink, aem ems) you're going to have to get the one that retains the ISC. I hope that helps. If you need anything else don't hesitate to hit me up.

 

isc i had planed on leaving so i wouldnt have to worry about that last part witth the idle correct.

 

yeah i had a check engine light due to tps i replaced it and its somewhat beter but if im like gettin on the gas and hit the clutch it wont go back to idle it will bottom out and kick back on or just die. so like when i brake i have to pop the clutch to try to keep it from dying which prolly isnt the greatest thing for the car, anyone else had that problem.