can't hurt! and anything that doesn't hurt you, helps

 

That's why you're hitting fuel cut....
You're car's creeping!
Yes, if you raise your boost, you will stop creeping.....but, then you run into not having enough fuel available to your motor so...you will still need a bigger pump, injectors, and a regulator. Some cars do fine without regulator, but to run fine without issue, you might consider having an AFPR.
What turbo do you have again? I want to say that you have a 16g, if you do, did you get a 34mm flapper?

The reason most folks get a 34mm is to keep from creeping at low boost. At higher boost, it's usually not an issue.

The reason you need a bigger AFPR is because it controls how much fuel goes back into the tank. The stock FPR has tiny little ports and it gets overrun.
The reason you need bigger injectors is because the stock ones are fine for a non-turbo car convertered to to but for our motors, they run out of fuel capacity to inject into the chamber, you need a bigger pump to feed the larger injectors. In the end, those three items in conjunction with each other work to feed the motor with fuel and you will need all three to correctly boost higher....creeping or purposely.

 

Alright, well...

1. If i got a fuel pump now (which would be my only fuel mod), would that help out the fuel cut?

2. So it would be a great idea to get an AFPR with the Walbro 190lph? I just thought you didnt need one with the Walbro 190lph...

3. So if i bought injectors and a fuel pump and slapped it on my car, thats ok? I thought you needed tuning devices when puttin in "upgraded" injectors... or can i just slap on the injectors with fuel pump and NOTHING else?

4. No, i dont have a 34 mm flapper. Wish i did though.

 

1. No, it won't help because the stock injector is the bottleneck and so is the stock FPR

2. Generally, you don't need an AFPR wtih a 190fp, but if you think about it, you're pumping in more fuel, so you're going to have to allow it to go back into the tank...the stock FPR valve is tiny and can't allow a lot of fuel to go back. A 190fp has a 50/50 chance on needing an AFPR..it's one of those "per car" issues. Think of a loop, with the pump as the starting point and the FPR as the middle. Everything will flow fine up until you reach the middle...then, there's a "door" that is smaller than the piping leading to the door. Although fuel will still go back to the fuel pump, you start building pressure in the line before the FPR, that's call overrun. Try squeezing through a small door, a door smaller than you..that is you (the fuel) overrunning the door (the FPR), lol.

3. You will need a fuel management device or you will run rich all day long, until you boost that is and even then you run a chance of running rich.

This is why you can't just slap on a larger flowing turbo and crank up the boost. 12psi from the stock turbo isn't the same as 12psi from an upgraded turbo.
Ideally, if you upgrade the turbo, you want to upgrade the fuel SYSTEM and add a fuel management device (SAFC and the likes). That's what you call the supporting mods. You really shouldn't piecemeal anything....ideally. What you're running into is common with piecing things together without all the supporting mods...except for the boost leak of course. You're hitting fuel cut for a number of things. The common issues are boost leaks, stock fuel system, boost leaks....did I mention boost leaks, lol.
Boost leaks don't just happen in the IC piping either, they can happen on the intake manifold, exhaust manifold...anywhere and everywhere AIR can move through. The purpose of a boost leak test is to find it. You really want to hold boost at your preset...um, setting for at least 15 seconds. If the boost leaks out before then, you will have to find it by spraying soapy water onto the area or areas. You just removed the head, it's rational to think that something was moved out of place and is no longer sealing like it used to. It's not rational to think that you didn't touch a bolt or two and assume that, that gasket or seal is good.

Here's a thought for you for the time being. Disconnect your MBC from the wastegate and run the wastegate line to the turbo. You should only be able to boost at 10psi (standard wastegate actuator psi). You are in turn removing the MBC from the equation of boost leaks.
Keep it this way until all your boost leak issues are solved.

 

Well, i have my MBC coming off the BOV line. So I would just connect that line back with a "connector." And the line coming off the wastegate to the BCS, and the other line where?

 

.... that right?

 

Did you have a boost source on the turbo, say somewhere on the compressor housing or the charge pipe? If not, the wastegate will have to be connected to the same place the MBC is...on the BOV line.

 

Yeah man, i have one side of one of the mbc lines running t-ing off the BOV line. You can see it in my pic:

https://mitsubishiforum.com/photo.as...=6&apage=1

So just connect that line that i have t-ed off the BOV straight to the wastegate? Will that help out fuel cut? LOL! At least turn it down some...

 

Anyone.. PLEASE!

 

Silvercoupe97 I NEED YOUR HELP! LOL!