Hey guys, I'm a little new to this forum thing. I always come here looking for information and just reading what everybody has to say but I have never posted before so I hope I'm doing this right. So I have a problem with my '95 GSX. I'm not sure where I went wrong but I was giving her a tune up last week and when I put in the new fuel filter it wouldn't screw in tight, so I make a rubber washer out of some hose and tightened it until it stopped. I checked it later and I there was no sign of leaking. I didn’t feel like bolting that stupid bracket back onto the firewall when I was putting it all back together. I'd been working on the rusty part for 8 hours and was tired of wrenching on the blasted thing. So anyways, I took her for a test drive like one would normally do and it seemed like i lost some power. It also smelled a little bit like something was burning, I just figured I had dripped some of the half gallon of gas I wasted on part of my engine. The smell seems to have gone away but the loss of power is still there. I also took out that restrictor on the waste gate solenoid like the site suggest and it seemed like it got worse again. Can anybody please help me figure out what is wrong with her? Also I have been noticing some clutch slipping with the throttle to the floor. What kind of clutch should I get and is it hard to install on an AWD? Any help would be most appriciated.

 

the awd is the hardest to install for a clutch because of where the tranny is and the difficulty of gettting around the axle. For a clutch what kind of mods do you have, plan on having. That way we can give you a good answer on that. As far as the power loss, do you have a boost guage? that might help. For the power loss you may just have a leak somewhere either in your intake or intercooler pipes. Its kinda hard to say though because it could be alot of things. Where do you feel the power loss? More detail?

 

Yeah, the shops around here want to install a stage 2 for almost $1500, and I dont even know what brand that is. I figured if I ordered the part and just had them put it in it would be cheaper, or if it isn't to difficult I could do it myself. I have a 3" exhaust except for the down pipe, Greddy Type S BOV, Upper Intercooler Piping, Front and rear tower strut bars, new yoko tires, 5" cone intake, and thats about it. I've done a couple of those free upgrades to help performance but not the difficult ones. I just ordered a boost controller, tripple gauge a pillar, boost gauge, air/fuel gauge, and a oil pressure gauge, if I remember any more mods I will list them, but I'm pretty sure thats about it. I could definately check my pipes again, I may have missed someting when reinstalling the UIP. I adjusted the blow off valve to make it more crisp. It has alwasy been vented to the atmosphere though. I mostly have a loss of power in the lower RPMs, during acceleration. It feels like my turbo doesn't spool as hard or fast as it used to. It could be that I'm just getting used to my car. Because it used to suck me into my seat when my turbo kicked in, now that only happens during first gear, maybe seconed.

 

Ok first off you want to correct the venting issue. That could be a major cause. Why are you venting? In terms of the clutch i recomend an ACT 2600 they are about 350 and usually like 500 to install so your quote was total bull****. You dont always see boost leaks so i recomend making a boost leak tester. You can either buy one or make one. Or you could just wait till you get your boost guage and act on what ever that tells you.

You also should have reset the ECU after installing the part. To do this all you have to do is dissconnect the battery for an hour and reconnect it.... then start the car and drive around.

Thats all i can think of right now.

EDIT: When you say you got an a/f gauge.... what kind was it? Narrowband? Wideband?

 

Aren't there also a lot of other things that they have to charge for, for instance resurfacing the flywheel and such? I don't know how to make it so the BOV doesn't vent, I turned it to hard, as far as it would go and it just sounded like it was a wind tunnel. If you have instructions on fixing that problem I will try that out. i just recieved my manual boost controller in teh mail today, but they did not give me any instructions. I will have to wait until my gauges to install it but I want to get an idea. It is a narrowband, but I dont plan on upgraded anything over 320 HP. Just something to give thos ricers around here a good scare. Thanks for all fo your help fellas.

 

sebba hes talking about an AWD not a FWD and the AWD is alot more to install than the front wheel. Your looking at usually 10 hours of work on that so what they said isnt too far off. And what kinda of BOV do you have because it may be very easy to recirc. it

 

Oh... well maybe thats around the right price though. Also dont bother with a skimmed flywheel just get a fidanza one.

To fix the venting problem all you have to do is put the pipe back onto the intake leading to the BOV... and reset the ECU and your done

 

I have a greddy type-s BOV and it still has the tube that goes into the intake after the air flow sensor. It just makes that sound that I love so much, but is it bad for my engine? Why would I need a fidanza flywheel? I heard that they don't have very good life, like they go out pretty fast. Wouldn't it be more cost effective to just get mine resurfaced? Could I do the work myself? I have the haynes car bible but have never put in a clutch before. Should have have the pros do it on this one?

 

I would just get it resurfaced. You could do it yourself but plan on spending some time doing it. It really depends on whether you think your capable. If anything its good to do it yourself cuz youll learn more.

 

Fidanza flywheels NEVER wear out because they have a bolt on friction plate. So you can just replace oen little part of it. The flywheel itself will last a lifetime. I have one and i love it.

If your BOV still has the tube then you are not venting so you are ok.

Also a narrowband gauge is USELESS!!!! Because it does not show your real time a/f ratio. So how can you tune a car with something that doesnt even show the exact numbners? Just a little display saying RICH,OK.. and LEAN... .its pointless