Ive never replaced a clutch before ang I heard they are a real pain. I can't even imagine how hard they would be on an allwheel turbo. i honestly don't think i am capable, but Ive always done everything else on my cars, including oil changes, tune ups, tire rotations, mods, body work, and other various things.. I love learning new skills. I remember replacing a head gasket on my moms 85 Fiero GT with the 2.8, and if anybody has ever done that they know it'a a huge pain. I think I will just resurface it for now. In the future I plan on getting a whole new engine with hopefully 600 HP, but theres no way I'll be touching that because I know I'll mess something up. Better to let the pros do it. That way if they mess up they have to fix it. A narrowband is fine for me because I won't be tuning it much, I just want to know if I'm running rich or lean, I want to be on normal right? Anyways, so a ACT 2600 will do me fine huh? Is that what I tell them I want at the shop? Do they order it or do they just put in something like it, because if they BS the job I wont be happy. Better to know if I should order it myself and hav them put it in. I was looking for it on www.andysautosport.com and am trying to figure out which one it is so I can start looking for better prices. Thanks again guys, you rock.

 

Ok i dont think you understood fully what i was trying to say. The narrowband wont actually tell you anything useful because turbo cars run rich anyway so it will ONLY read rich im willing to bet. You should never ever tune your car with a narrowband. How can you feel safe just relying on the gause preset a/f ratios? Every engine runs different and there is no way they could make something that would be accurate for everyone. Take my word for it.... its asking for trouble tuning with one. No matter how small of a tuning job. That gauge is for ricers that do not tune "just for show". Back me up on this one guys!

Well with the whole shop thing, ask them how much they would charge for the ACT 2600 clutch first. Then once you get a price just for the clutch itself... search the following places for a better deal. If you get a better deal just bring them the clutch. www.slowboyracing.com , www.amsperformance.com , www.buschurracing.com , www.extremepsi.com . You should be able to find the cheapest out of the bunch. Also you are going to regret surfacing the flywheel.... i have seen resurfaced flywheels shatter. I only did it once for a week when i got my clutch because i needed to track down better flywheel bolts because i wasnt happy with how far they went in and once i got the bolts that flywheel went in the trash!

Remember to take it very very easy on the clutch for 350 miles.

 

Well for your clutch it doesnt seem like you have alot of mods or plan on getting to crazy in the near future so i think i would suggest the ACT 2100. Its alittle less agressive and will still give you good grabbing. Also its a bit cheaper. I would just buy the kit yourself then bring it to have someone install it. Look around and see what people give for quotes but im sure your still looking at around $650+ for install

 

its the same price actually lol

 

find a place that has them the same price

 

holy crap...i stand corrected. Ok in that case if you have no future mods planned then i guess a 2100 will do great

 

Thanks for all of your input, I was camping this weekend and it would be silly to bring my laptop along. So anyway, I understand about the narrowband compared to wideband, but I have already ordered my gauge, I think I will upgrade depending on how much it tells me. I'm new to the whole tuning concept and am trying to get as much information as I can. I am also planning on putting in an aftermarket intercooler with some polished pipes. I heard that a bigger one than stock is bad for you're turbo because it has to work harder to get throught it, but doesn't it also do a better job? Compressing the air to make a better mixture and a bigger explosion is the goal, right? Just wondering what your guys' set up is. As for the clutch, will the 2100 be as aggresive as the 2600? What is the differance and what do the numpers mean. All I am finding is stuff about 4 puck plates and 6 puck, with different springs or something like that. I basically want something that will grab hard over and over and not wear out for a relatively long time. Thanks again.

 

the 2100 is less agressive than the 2600 but its really all youll need. The big misconception is that the big difference between them is the clutch disc which is what grabs the flywheel, but the major difference is in the pressure plate with it apply's the pressure to the clutch disc. If i were you i would stay away from the 4/6 puck clutches becuase it will be a pain for diengaging and taking off. With the power your looking at its too much IMO. I would stick with the street disc 2100.

 

and as far as the pucks and the springs go. the puck clutches are for very aggressive racing because they increase the number of surfaces, the trade-off is that you will have what is called chatter when releases the clutch and it can be difficult to drive under daily driving. And the springs in the clutches are used to reduce the chatter that occurs.

 

Just do yourself a favor and DO NOT try and tune with that gauge.

4/6 puck clutches are only for racing. They will break your teeth and give you whip lash.

In the terms of the intercooler yes it will be more difficult for the stock turbo to get air because of the longer piping... or something like that. Just wait till you get a bigger one.

By the way.... you only need a tuning device if you have aftermarket injectors. So why do you think you need to tune?