When I try to give it W.O.T. for heavy acceleration, the RPM's will raise but not the vehicle speed. I found out the hard way today its the clutch slipping. At a light there was 3 lanes, but only 2 were on-ramp ones. I noticed an old truck that wanted to speed into my on-ramp lane when the light turned green. So when it went green I just did a normal everyday ease into first launch to get rolling...then it happened. I gave about 80% throttle in 1st and the RPM rose to like 5k-6k but not the vehicle speed. I shifted to second...same thing RPM only, and moronically and hard headed wanting to beat the truck again in 3rd. So after that horrible burnt clutch smell hit me I took it easy from then on.

Anyways...what I wanted to know is if its the Clutch Disc, Flywheel, Pressure Plate, or All-of-the-Above that needs to replaced to get that non-RPM-surge? Im pretty sure the stock clutch parts can at least handle the stock horsepower with Full-Throttle launches or Full Throttle period for that matter. Keep in mind im not the one that burned out the clutch...previous owner did. I first noticed the slip a week or 2 after I bought it, I was getting on the freeway doing about 40 when I decided to go W.O.T in 3rd to have some fun but the RPM decided to rise all by itself instead. Thanks.

 

i had the same thing happen to me in another car and i drove it even tho is was sliping and one day it would move so i went to change the clutch and there was no padding on it so it sound like the clucth is just going out and if your going to change one thing you might just want to change them all sence you under there get the flywheel resurface if you can. and buy a clutch kit and a throw out bearing

 

Ok the clutch comes in a kit. That includes the pressure plate, disc, and throw out bearing.

From what you tell me it sounds like there would have been a lot of heat going through that. I would defenatly avoid slipping the clutch like that ever again.. the clutch disc or flywheel might explode due to the heat... it has happend.

Also, when this happens the surface of the flywheel heats up and contracts very rapidly causing ltitle surface cracks not always visible to the naked eye.... these can result in major cracks if left untreated. The precaution when changing the clutch is to have the flywheel machined to remove the surface imperfections... alternatively you can replace it with a performance one or a stock one. What ever you want to do. Having the flywheel machined is just fine.

What car do you drive???

 

Your clutch is damn near toasted after doing all that to it.
How many miles on the vehicle??

 

My car is a 99 GST and it has 132k on it. I dont intend to ever over rev it passed 3k until I get the parts fixed. I also have an exhaust leak in the front pipe that I need to replace. Apparently whoever installed the exhaust system didnt secure the cat converter and the front flex pipe was constantly bouncing around for I dont know how long. Now I could here a hissing sound from under the car. That and I have a slight lean A/F mixture. So you guys would suggest aftermarket clutch because of price? I know the factory parts are sold piece by piece. If I do go aftermarket...which brand/type would be slightly stronger than the stock one? I would just like one that would be able to handle occasional Full Throttle acceleration in pretty much 2nd gear and up, thanks again.

 

Perfect would be the ACT 2100 clutch kit. The full disc ONLY.

Remember when buying a new clutch... take it easy on it for 300 miles. This means no aggressive launching, no high rev bull****, no high load downshifting. After that... drive it as you please

 

Cool thanks Sebba, I already looked that clutch up...not a bad deal. I take it its the street type clutch system. Im still determining if I should replace or resurface the flywheel though, it happens to be the more expensive part to replace.

 

Indeed. If you were going to replace it i would recomend Fidanza.

 

it depends on how much power and performance you want out of the car. If you just want to have some fun here and there and keep stock turbo and such then just resurface the flywheel. If you plan on taking it to the track or trying to get some good HP out of it in the future then buy a flywheel

 

I smoked my stock clutch 3 or 4 times. once doing donuts in the snow then it just decided it didnt like 3rd gear anymore and started slipping, i notcied it right away but when your doing AWD donuts in 3rd at 7000rpm they heat up quick and the smoke rolls. My flywheel had to be resurfaced of course but its still ok. The ACT 2100 would be a good choice for a clutch kit definately, ive never had much luck with stock replacements unless they come from the dealer, them autozone clutches(unless you buy a LUK clutch)arent good for nothing but a frisbee. your stock flywheel is good for a decent amount of power. The lighter aftermarket one makes it harder to drive for some people but you get used to it and they get rid of someunneededdead weight. I would say if your flywheel is able to be resurfaced stick with it, if not then go for a better aftermarket one instead of replacing it with stock again.
Dont buy aluminum you wont like it. My talon puts down quite a bit of power and ive managed to stall it launching from 6000 r's from that weightless heap of **** on there.