Parts and 1 Code! Help please
#11
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Well, it gets spark,turns over fine, and tries to fire, But it will do that over and over for however long, I am assuming its most likely a fuel issue. Just turns over until the battery dies. Where is the test port to check for fuel?
#12
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well i was saying to try the thing i posted on testing the Fuel Pressure solenoid first and see if thats working. Click the link i posted in the begining, it showed exactly where it is located.
#18
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well like i said i still think its related to the fuel pressure soleoid. But i wouldnt spend the money on it till you know it the problem by hooking a battery up to the terminals on it and seeing if it opens
#19
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Well, here's my thoughts on this. It could be the FPR, the IAC, TPS, the FIAV or a combo of the three or all of the above, lol. I don't think it's all of the above because it will start when it's already warmed up, so the FPR is doing it's job. Now if you're not getting enough air or not enough air.......or......the computer thinks that it is getting enough or not enough........that leads to the IAC and TPS. The TPS tells the computer the throttle plates position. The FIAV (fast idle air valve) has a wax pellet that can also cause start up issues. I lean more towards the IAC though. That's the idle air controller. It's also called an ISC, idle surge controller or idle speed controller. Either way, it has a stepper motor that pushes or pulls a plunger that blocks or opens the air passage. If it's open, it may cause the car to have a harder time starting. During start up on cold days, it should be closed. All four play an important role with start up and idle. I think your starter was changed out because of all the stress that's put on it during the initial and cold starts and probably because it sounded bad trying to start it up..oh and it's probably the original starter.
You can check yours by following the VFAQ.
Does your car's idle surge at any point too?
Check your TPS from this link.
That's what I'm thinking. I've gotta head out for a few and when I get back, I'll continue. That up there should get you started though. Oh and here's a random thought to piggy back John's thoughts. Your fuel pump may not be sealing up anymore and thus taking you an hour to start your car.
Does it start "easier" on warmer days?
You can check yours by following the VFAQ.
[ol][*] Remove the ISC connector.[*] On the ISC side of the connector, you will see 6 pins (see picture). A top row of 3 and a bottom row of 3.[*] With the car shut off, take a ohmmeter and check the resistance between these pins: 1&2, 2&3, 4&5, 5&6.[*] This checks the 4 different coils in the ISC that can go bad. If any of the values are GREATER than ~30 ohms (like in the kohm range), then you have a busted ISC and have to replace it. L[*] If they check out OK, then it isn't the ISC[*] Be sure to reattach the connector when done! I don't know how many times I forgot about that.[/ol]
Check your TPS from this link.
That's what I'm thinking. I've gotta head out for a few and when I get back, I'll continue. That up there should get you started though. Oh and here's a random thought to piggy back John's thoughts. Your fuel pump may not be sealing up anymore and thus taking you an hour to start your car.
Does it start "easier" on warmer days?
#20
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thanks for the input. Well the thing is he says it sat in a warm garage fora while and started up fine, so yea warmer days it should start fine for him. But the one thing that is confusing me is this code that he is getting p1105? You think maybe it is coincidence that hes getting that codeand the car is having a hard time starting. Like they are totally unrelated