It could be because the fuel froze up in the FPR or the down the line too.
If it is the fuel freezing, use a bottle of dry gas.

 

Yesh as, theengineer said, when its warm, or already warmed up, it starts perfectly fine. Idles great, its just when starting it freshly cold that it has an issue.

 

Still looking for advice, I'll be checking the sensor tomarrow as i will have some free time on my hands

 

The only other thing I can think of is a low charge battery or frozen cells...as in the battery can no longer discharge it's full capacity cold cranking amps when a cell or two is frozen or dead. The thing about having low battery output is thatit can cause your car to throw codes because it may seem like the sensor is detecting below ECU maps.

 

blah this is so troublsom

 

Okay Well, I am going to bring this back, Its warmer out, and the car now always starts on the first crank ( thank god ) did figure out my alternator is pretty much just junk, could that have something to do with the code? I'm broke at the moment so a new alternator has to wait until i get back to work. But i would REALLY like to solve this code issue.

 

Changed a flat tire today, i had the car at a funky angle, it ended up turning the CEL off, while i went down the road, but it turned back on as soon as i pulled back in the driveway 2 minutes later!? wtf lol

 

Pere, I would try what TheEngineer suggest with the FPR. I would even go as far as getting one from a junkyard (from the same motor) and replacing it.
Have you had a chance to get the alternator looked at? You can get a rebuilt one from an alternator shop for around $100 (depends on shop). Have you had the battery checked for a dead cell or anything like that? Do the lights dim at night or seem dim to you?

I think your initial issue of cold starts are because of the FIAV or the ISC since in warm weather you don't experience it. Here's another though. Those two items regulate the amount of air coming in during cold weather, if you have unmetered air coming in, you won't run rich at start up like you should...I'm going off of Racer's comment btw.
That leads me to...do you still have the stock 2G bov? The 1G bov isn't a drop in btw, you will need an upper intercooler pipe with a 1G flange welded in. For a stock daily, IMO, the HKS is a pricey piece. IMHO, replace the 2G bov with another one since you don't have plans to go any higher than stock. If you're set on replacing it with an aftermarket one, might I suggest a Forge 2G bov.
Anyway, let us know bud.

 

You can buy a greddy BOV and it comes with a flange that fits in the stock 2g piping. I beleive I still have that fitting and the plug.

 

The alternator was looked at last time i was in the shop, the battery was fine, but the alternetor squeels loudly on cold startups, and doesnt put out like its supose to, It'll get swapped as soon as i get back to work. I understand the HKS is a little spendy, but I'm a picky person ( for example, i cleaned my car interior today with a Q-tip, for nearly 8 hours ) As for finding one from a junkyard, i had inquired about it with a guy ( ~ 2 months ago ) he had my convt top clam, and the other piece, but has since fallen off the earth. The only junkyards near here, either dont have my car, or are privatly owned, and do not have vehicles. So im stuck looking in for-sale sections, and online junkyards.