I need some help before I send one of my orders through. I'm not on a budget I can buy anything or everything on this list. I just don't want to waste my money or buy something I don't need. I know some of you don't like slow boy racing. I will be buying a few things from them just because of the prices and projected delivery time, and other things I will be purchasing elsewhere.

http://www.slowboyracing.com/estore/product.php?productid=5797&quantity=1 I decided to go with this Air filter kit. There was another one on there with a 4.5 inch intake ( round ) and it was made by vibrant performance it was $10 dollars less. Would there be any benefit to me going with the bigger one thats cheaper or just sticking with the K &N ?

I want to get the AEM tru Boost gauge/controller. It says it acts as a manual boost controller. Does that mean I will not need to buy a manual boost controller?

The GM MAF hack what advantages do I have to getting this besides venting it to atmosphere because to me its not worth the 400 bucks if thats all it does.

Which size wastegate should I get for an evo 3 big 16g? I don't understand the differences between sizes. I mean yeah if one is pushing 25 psi I could understand where you would recommend the biggest one possible, but how do I know which one to use? I want to push around 18-20 psi range is that a reasonable amount or should I push a little lower?

What are the differences between these to units below? If I purchase one or both will I even need a boost controller or air fuel gauge at that point?

AEM Six-In-One Gauge-Type UEGO Controller
AEM Gauge Type TRU BOOST Controller

Also do you know where to purchase a radio bezel like this but for a 2g? I'm having the hardest time finding one.

http://www.slowboyracing.com/estore/product.php?productid=6024&quantity=1

 

-GM MAF, IMO, isn't worth the $$.
-There's no benefit to getting a larger one because the MAF will only meter so much, not to mention the turbo itself.
-The 34mm or 36mm? is fine for the E316G at those boost levels and 18-20psi is fine.
-The AEM UEGO Wideband is what you want. The Tru Boost is a boost controller and boost gauge....way over priced if you ask me. You can get an average boost gauge for $50 and manual boost controller for $50.

Here's a SAFC bracket for just that. I replaces the pocket for you 2G
http://www.machv.com/safcdinmount.html
[IMG]local://upfiles/10268/A03C556C355D43698E0F2980ED282512.jpg[/IMG]

Oh yeah, if you can get it all, go for it, IMO. Are you getting injectors, turbo, fuel pump, AFPR, SAFC I or II also?

 

Yeah to me the GM MAF sounded like a joke just to vent it to atmosphere.The onlydownside is Ican't get a Tiallike I had wanted. So I should pick up the AEM UEGO wideband and not get an air fuel, then pick up a boost controller and boost gauge?

I plan on getting injectors, fuel pump, SAFC before I get my turbo. Once I get that stuff i'll pick up the E316G. I wanted some advice on that stuff too. I wasn't sure what size injectors or fuel pump to get. What is an AFPR?Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator?

 

Well, the GM MAF allows more airflow through the intake system....but, unless you can take advantage of that or until you have a need for a large amount of airflow, it's a waste of money. Your 2G MAF can be modified to allow for more than 400HP (which the stock MAF is capable of). The Translator, is also needed to convert the GM MAF's signal to speak Japanese (haha, get it? American MAF and Mitsu MAF? Bah..), ok, really , though, it translates the GM signal to a Mitsu signal. The translator is also a fuel manager.
Save your money for DSMLink so that you can replace the SAFC that you're getting later and skip over the GM MAF.

An AFPR is an Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator. You were close, though it made me smile when you said Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator, lol.

Yes, get a wideband instead of a blinky light Air/Fuel gauge. A wideband monitors with a 0-5volt signal where a air/fuel gauge will monitor a 0-1volt signal (narrowband). The wideband also aids in tuning, the air/fuel does not (yes, but no).

IMO 650cc or 660cc, because that's all the SAFC II can handle. If you go higher, you'll need DSMLink or a stand alone, but your not in any need for a stand alone.

Go with a 255lhp. Both the 190 and 255 are the same price anyway. 190= $80....255=$85 @ EPSI

Oh yeah, I prefer a manual BCS in the engine bay over one in the cabin because the only time you need to change boost settings is if you're adjusting it to your desired boost range. I could careless about low/high settings, my foot takes care of the low and high boost settings and my manual boost controller handles the cutoff or limit. That AEM tru boost is too pricey for convenience for what I can do with my foot, that's just me though, I'm oldschool, literally.

Hope that helped Matt

 

Yeah this is helping a ton sorry, i'm still learning what these motors are capable of. I went ahead and bought the AEM UEGO and the AEM TRU BOOST along with the K & N filter kit and dual gauge pillar pod. I know its pricey but everyone says its deathly accurate and it has some nice extra features on it. Eh if I hate it one of my stupid honda friends will buy it off me and i'll just get a normal boost gauge.

Next check i'll buy the injectors, safc II ( should I just skip this and go straight to buying the dsm link? ), AFPR, and fuel pump.

 

I skipped the whole SAFC thing and went straight for DSMLink, so I'm kind of biased about getting DSMLink, to be honest with you , especially when you ask me a question like that, lol. That's a yes btw, skip SAFC and get DSMLink, lol.
There's a ton you can do with Link over the SAFC to include it being a logger too. I have a few friends with SAFCs and do fine with it though, so I'm not saying that it's a POS at all.

My unbiased answer...
If you plan on keeping your DSM with possibilities of bigger than 660cc injectors and a larger turbo, get Link. If you plan to make your DSM a daily driver + a 1/4 mile weekend warrior, get Link. If you bought the AEM Tru Boost because of all the extras on it...you'll love DSMLink.
If you plan to keep your DSM with no thoughts of going any higher than 660CCs and a turbo no larger than the E316G, stick with a SAFCII, because that extra money can go into something like the suspension if you like closed course/autox type racing or driving.

These are just my opinions of course and I know you'll use the info according to your taste, which is also why I typed out a ton instead of simple answers, lol.

 

Well looks like silver did most of the answering, but i do have one thing to note. Well its more of a question. Isnt the 16g internally gated. So there is no need to buy an external wastegate?

 

Yes the E3B16G is internally gated.

 

I like baller ****, what can I say? I'll just skip the SAFC and get DSMLink. This car is going to be a daily driver/ weekend worry for a few months,but i'm going to bemoving to Florida come this summer and picking up a s2000 when I get down thereand at that point I'll be throwingin abuilt 6 bolt longblock into the eclipse and hopefully pushing 26-28 pounds safely, which I feel is a fairly obtainable goal with the right internals. As far as auto cross goes thats what the s deuce will be forbesidesits front wheel drive to me the only suspension I want is something streetable and puts weight to the front tires so I can get more traction. Hey silver I really appreciate all the help, keep the answers coming. Biased or unbiased experience with the vehicle and product means something.

Heres a good question where do I get a 97-99 rear bumper and GS-T/GSX spoiler at for a halfway decent price? Everywhere i've found wants 250+ for the rear bumper and around 180 for the spoiler and I'm just gonna have to drop the cash on this one or am I looking in the wrong places? I picked up my frontbumper for 86.00 brand new but I used a friends discount and they didn't carry the rear bumper orspoiler. Also i'd assume as much, but it never hurts to ask anyone ever swapped a 98-99 ( black/grey two tone ) interior into their 95-97? I like that interior much better especially how the center console is set up.

Heres a pic of my car if any of you care. I picked up the paint already for the hood and bumper just waiting on a NICE day for once in ohio. Its kind of a sleeper at the moment it has the 95-96 lose rise spoiler but a 97-99 front end. Everyone thinks its a 97-99 GS, its great.

http://i10.tinypic.com/2rpyyr7.jpg
http://i12.tinypic.com/4dqtqfo.jpg

I was checking my ECU today to see if it had e-promm ( since my car is a 95 ) and I have quite a weird ECU code MB942485g0T11072M. i'm thinking someone switched out the ecu for a 96+ GS-T/GSX ECU a long time ago. Or maybe i'm just wrong and the E-PROMM ECU's only came in the GSX's which would in turn make them worth their weight in gold ha. j

I just got done checking out DSM link. Its only like $600 bucks only downside is I need to find an E-PROMM ECU. I thought it was going to be like $1000-$1200 bucks like k-pro for the k20's. I'll definitely be picking that up in the future.

 

Junkyard would be the best place to get the bumper and wing from. Check out www.car-part.com