I'm replacing a timing belt on a 99 eclipse 420a engine. Followed manual and numerous threads and postings. I've set crank timing mark 1/2 tooth before top dead center. Cam spider gears marks set together, Installed belt per manual, moved crank time mark to exact tpdc, installed tensioner and set per manual. All goes good except after the belt tensioner is set the cam gears are not lined up. around 1 tooth off and it looks like they have moved respective to the direction of belt movement.

Any suggestions will be appreciated.

 

in my experience (which doesn't extend to new shiny vehicles)
you don't set the cam/belt off by a tooth. you line everything up TDC.
ignition timing is what you change.
the average tooth is about 10° of CAM TIMING. which is HEAPS.

 

also, when installing belts, you work clockwise,
then turn the crank/cam CW and CCW respectively, to collect the slack at the tensioner. then let the tensioner go.

 

Manuals on the 420a engine state just before installing belt set the crank 1/2 tooth btdc, Cam spiders marks facing each other, Install belt starting at crank, then water pump, idler, cam sprockets, tensioner pulley. Turn crank to tdc. install tensioner, pull torque wrench on the tensioner pulley to 24 ft lbs, push tensioner cylnder against tension pulley assy and tighten bolts. remove torque wrench and pull pin on tensioner cylnder. if slides out easy and back in easy, remove pin and all is set. turn 2 revolutions and recheck. however when doing this the cam spiders turn in direction of travel about a 1/2 tooth each.

 

when you say 'spider' i assume you mean timing pulley/pinion/sprocket?

If you put it half a tooth btdc, and it turns half a tooth to tdc, that sounds right. Ish.
And if thats what it says when you rtfm, then go with it.
I have no knowledge of that engine specifically. I guess turn it over by hand and make sure the valve train is doing what it should. Youll soon find out if it innt.

Also If you can push an hydraulic tensionr in by hand, its stuffed. A 4t shop press is more like.

 

The Tensioner is pre loaded and a pin holds it pre loaded until installed, then the tensioner does its job. With the torque wrench pulling the pulley to tension you slide the tensioner up against the tensioner body and tighten the retaining bolts and pull the pin.

 

yeah. Thats right.
It was the '. if slides out
easy and back in easy, remove
pin ' comment i was curious at
if you were re using one you reseat it with a press.

 

Yes it is new, but first try it didn't go well. I had to reset it by using a vice as shown in manuals and insert the pin to hold it for installation.

 

I have done this job twice. Changing the timing belt. My first atempt a crack head didn't align anything. it was cranked over by hand only. I realize that crackhead was not a real mechanic and re-did all of the work again. I aligned everything with clamps and tiewire to make it perfect. after it failed at starting, I did a compression test on the cylinders. I have a 0 30 0 60 compression. My question is, did the first mistake bend the valves to give me a F#$K up valves and compression, or did the teeth on the belt go over enough to give me no compression? Could it have skipped over 1-2-3 teeth to give me no compression? Or is my engine valves totally screwed? Talk to me...

 

I guess you cranked it with the starter to check the compression. I would crank it by hand and hope there isn't any resistance. (you can take spark plugs out to turn easer. If all is ok get #1 piston to top dead ctr on the compression stroke. Than follow the instructions to the letter. 2GNT.com - Timing_Belt_Replacement this is one sight that is good ( make sure you catch the stumble on setting crank states 1 than latter states1/2 notch). Prob I had is the cam gears would turn and be off. If you get it the first time buy a lottery ticket. If you cranked it and it was not aligned correct you have valve problems. No room for error here. Hope this helps some. they can be a bugger at times. Good luck