p0335 p0340 cam and crank 02 Eclipse 4cyl
 

hey guys! so i'm new to the forum, and new to mitsubishi's so please give me a little slack! anyway though i have a problem! The mitsubishi i own is a 2002 eclipse 4g64 4Cyl, all stock automatic. I bought the car because it needed a motor, well, later i found out it needed a motor. The engine in the car previous to the swap, was the same 4cyl, and it was 180 out and not running due to that. I fixed the timing and it turned out to have a thrown rod:mad:
So i went out and bought a used guaranteed engine for it from my local junkyard, i had to use my old intake manifold, with all the sensors, and i tried to swap over as much as possible, the engine is out of a 2002 galant, same engine however there are a few things i'm having issues with!
Since i put the engine in, it has thrown 2 codes for the Cam sensor and Crank Sensor, i replaced the timing belt, cam and crank sensor and i am 100% sure the timing is spot on! however the codes are still there, and the motor runs like it has a miss fire and quit frankly like ****... So i changed the coils and checked everything out on the top end, and the car still doesn't run rite!:confused: it has a almost a loud hissing noise coming from the timing area, however the plate behind the crank sensor is fine, the water pump is new and the oil pump is probably fine although i am not sure, however it gets oil at the top end. I checked the compression and its all good, all 4 cyls are at 150psi (the motor has 130k on it). Thereas i do not believe this is a head gasket, piston ring, or mechanical timing issue. BTW i have not checked the computer however the original motor never showed the same codes! it had no codes! So i am at a complete loss, i paid 700 for the car, and i now have 2000 above that into it! which puts me at 2700, i have no more money for this car! but i need help, can anyone help me out please? it would be much appreciated. :rolleyes:

Go to Autozone and clear the codes. See if it comes back after that.
Next, That hissing sound your talking about sounds like a vacuum leak. Look around all the vacuum hoses and see if any of them are cut or damaged. This could have happened while you was swapping out parts. This can cause it to run like ****.

And just for the heck of it, I would recheck the timing. Just for kicks. You never can be to sure sometimes. As for the hoses, Run your finger over them until you feel air coming out of them. Careful not to get burned. You could always spray some carb cleaner over them and see if you get bubbles and what not to confirm.

Is long as the engine is the same as the original, that rules out a lot of reasons for it running….bad. As for the codes you are seeing now, when you swapped engines, are you sure that the wires to the sensors did not get pinched or cut? You should look at the electrical schematic for your car to check the harness side of the sensor for an open circuit or power issues. As the original engine did not give any codes and this “new” one does, it is something that you disconnected, replaced, touched….

As for the hissing sound, the only things under pressure that could hiss are the cooling, oiling, AC, power steering and the fuel delivery. Does the hissing stop when the engine stops or does it continue for a while afterwards? Vacuum leaks usually are more like a whistle, will stop right when the engine is turned off..... and you will not feel any air coming out of the hoses if you run your finger over them…because it is a VACUUM hose. Hope to hear any updates...

I checked all of the vacuum lines, as well as everything hooked up, the timing is still on however I heard that in 2002 they changed a few things on their engines, I read that they changed the relucter wheel for the crank sensor in some matter, so that could explain the timing, the hissing im hearing could be the compression working against the valves durring strokes because of faulty timing due to this wheel potentially being different, you see the engine I bought was from an 2002 galant the build times could be different..., does this sound rite?

I can buy it, the difference in the hub or wheel that the crank sensor uses being different on the two engines and causing the error codes. Sounds like you need the cam and crank sensors for that year and make engine and not the old one. Hopefully the connections will be the same.


The hissing, you only hear when you are cranking and not running?

I've been putting alot of wrench time into the car lately, I found out that these motors had balance shafts, one connecting to the balance shaft belt, and one connected to the oil pump. Now the interesting thing comes in when you need to remove a plug out of the motor and slip a 8mm thick screwdriver into the block directly behind the exhaust manifold (made things a bit tricky) none the less got the timing spot on, balance shaft spot on and it runs rough!!! Now I have a picture of the four plugs, I've since cleaned them and reinstalled them and attached the picture of them dirty (they have next to no use, just a year old). I will be putting the grenade pin back In the timing casing tomorrow and starting it up, Is it possible to have a misfire go undetected by the computer though? Say I had a bad boot or wire, wouldn't the computer throw a code for that?? It would only make sense however no code for it

OKAY! So i have some more information for you guys (if any one is reading this). I cleaned the plugs and put them back in, then looked towards the battery and realized the battery was grounding on the engine, and the engine on the battery. Nowhere in this equation was there a ground to the chassis except for the ground off of the intake manifold to the fire wall.

I removed the ground from the battery to the engine, and grounded the battery to the chassis, much like the stock design. The motor is grounded in the stock place on the transmission which rises up to meet the ground of the battery on the chassis, near the driver side fuse box under hood, however i believe there may be one more ground. As it stands rite now, the motor is grounded to the firewall via the intake manifold, and the frame via the transmission. is there another location i need to ground out?!

as it stands rite now i have p0335, p0340, p0123 and p0507

Since improving the grounds i have now 2 extra codes!! in this situation it is good, because it helps identify the problems.

Is it possible that the ground for the cam, crank sensor and MFI are all in the same location on the transmission? i know this is a pretty into it question but i'm hoping the forum can help me out.

IS there another ground that i am missing??

Yes there is a ground right next to your fuse. Say ur standing by driver side fender looking at motor fuse box right in front if you. Now to the right of fuse box should be a flat mount bracket that has 2 10 mm screw holes in it take your ground and ground it out there then to ur negative post