Well hello there.
Over the many years of motoring with Mitsi..
I have had so many (different) types and models to consider, I now consider them all, as just the "mitsi" I was using at the time.
So - roof rack fitments.

Was easy peasey for so many years with an interchangeability across all models and I do mean all, (three small cab& chassi/trucks and two enclosed vans) - until...?
I bought some station wagons.

My initial was a 1978 Mitsi T-120-Y Cab/chassis with custom fitted 8ft wide, flat-deck tray with fold-up sides and tailgate, that eventually fell off (wood doesn't last see), but with having at the end, THREE of the same similar models, a 1975 the 78 and a non running 75 that I converted into a trailer (by removing the front axle/cab) all had gutter grips for the roof rack load bars that I had my work/driving lights fitted onto.
I could thus easily swap vehicles, taking the load/light bars with me, depending on which vehicle I wished to drive for ny particular job (only one was left registered fir road work, the others became towed via A-Frames.

Anyways I obtained a swap (for my 1976 roadbike) an LPG converted L200 van also with gutter grip mounts, woohoo..
Then my much taller/wider L300Starwagon Delica 4WD, now that was a beast.
It too had guttergrip mounts, so a swapped fitment too allowed the instant interchangeability of off-road an onroad driving / everything lights.

My PROBLEMS started with the 1997 Legnum.
It did NOT have gutter grips, but used raised rails along the length of the vehicle, so I couldn't easily sway load bars as all of mine had the guttergrip feet.
Both the Prorack & the Thules.

The Legnum, a briliant car, suddenly died one day at 90kph while towing my trailer (in torrential rain).
It ran down until it went into 1st, with the trailer hunting it along, so with vehicles behind me, I slammed it into neutral and rolled around some twisting corners, until I found a suitable offroad area to pull off and stop.

That was the end of that.

I had to call a tow truck flatbed, for the car as they needed to also tow the trailer as well.

It came home, to "rll" down into my yard, where it stood forelorn until after several dry hot days, (long after I had replaced it with a newer Outlander 2005/6 model 4wd.
THAT didn't have any roofrack mounts visible.

Until I felt three tophat J-hook clamps, spot-welded to the hidden (below roofline) concealed rain gutters along each side of the top of the roof itself.

?
Having nothing except Gutter Grip FEET on all load bars, the triangular feet appear able to "fit" along the grooves in the conceiled roof rain gutters, but how do I clamp them down, unless I can use something with the Prorack K537 "Concealed Roof Fitting Kit" J-Hooks.

Why?
Why did Mitsi - make swapping (prior bought and always used) roof rack fittings, so darned difficult, as one swaps these across vehicles as one goes up into newer models?

Oh and don't get me started on the useless wiring of rear trailer lights, when everything TURNS OFF with the key going off?

WHY?
Why would one wish to have the rear tallights of a trailer, GO OFF AT NIGHT, when the driver needs to "exit & lock" the car - on a road, such as when finding an accident site, as EVEN LEAVING THE CAR's hazard lights FLASHING, the trailer's lights go off KILLING ANY SIGN, of a now hidden vehicle ahead of a wide/high trailer body??????

I am about to "rewire" the Mitsi Outlander's railer fitted wiring loom, to bypass the autooff feature, which is NOT a safety measure inmy mind at all - it causes a now darkened trailer, to itsel become a MAJOR ACCIDENT waiting for an unwary following vehicle to slam into at speed.?

I will, after I get this ruddy wheelchair down the steps of the house, (which our also useless ACCESS NZ has faied to install access ramps for me to use) such that I can rewire the trailer 7pin plug from it's current ONLY FIVE WIRE CIRCUITS - ALL WHICH ARE LIVE WITH - but only with the KEY ON wiring!!!!

Rewired with all 7 wire circits, that I have always used when towing (my own built) large trailers, fitted with, yes 7 circuits from the 7flat pin plug/sockets.!!!!!!

Now instead of simply adding two wires to these outlet sockets, I aso have to find ALWAYS ON, live circuit feeds from the vehicle's own lights that also NEED to be on when the key is off, for goodness sake, who turns all lights OFF when a car gets disabled ON THE ROAD - at night?

Auto off with key off, has to be the MOST unsafe vehicle wiring possible.

WHY KILL ALL LIGTS AT NIGHT, when a vehicle dies in the middle of a busy road?
Hey Mitsi - not everyone can park off a street, or dark rural road, when they break down.!!!!!

Mitsubishi 1978 Colt T-120-Y Cab/Chassis TRUCK (with rego plate) with - PERSONALISED PLATE NAME

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LAST SEEN WORKING _ five years ago ..
MY WORKLAMP / DRIVING LAMP "ROOFRACK" ((?)) style of fully loaded" (light-load) bar
In New Zealand, "loaded loadbars" must be lit when on roof of vehicle. !!!! Which I did, (literally, as seen by my "loaded with lights fitted" loadbars - on my last guttergrip vehicle.

Someday - my newer 2005/2006 Mitsi Outlander, will "also have" this loaded lightbar LOAD, fitted to it's 4WD rooftop to.
(for oficially using when off road working - and NOT for when driving along "on_road/s" with it on - eh?)