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Severe Sag / Hesitation 2.5l 6G73

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  #1  
Old 07-31-2007, 08:16 AM
sumncguy's Avatar
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Default Severe Sag / Hesitation 2.5l 6G73


I have a 96 Sebring with a Mitsubishi 2.5l 6G73 ... I dont mean to intrude but Im having problems getting this answered in the Chrysler environment. If the info I found is correct, the 90-02 Diamante and 92-96 Galant also have the identical version engine.

Ok so ...
All of this started when I had a mechanic do wires and plugs. The car was running ok, prior to plugs and wires. This mechanic put Bosch double platinum plugs in, was told by a Chrysler tech that "ONLY ONLY ONLY" Champion dub plats.

Some history :

Champion Plugs put in a few days before the stuff below,

Rotor and Dist. Cap, Valve cover seals and gaskets, Egr valve and transducer replaced with OEM, Mopar parts (Neighbor is the parts manager at the local Dodge dealer and I get 25 % off.)

Car .. well the car is doing the same thing ... I needed to all of this anyway, but my work did not correct the issue.

The car runs ok for about five minutes.
Gradually, hesitation increases. As it increases idle becomes irradic.
Eventually (probably after 7 or 10 minutes), when stopping at a light or stop sign, intermittently rpms will drop very low, the Oil light comes as the car stalls or it comes back up to about 7 or 8 hundred rpms. If it stalls, it hard starting it again, but it does crank and eventually will go over after a few tries. If it doesnt stall, and I step on the gas to pull away, I get a very severe sag, hesitation ... hit gas but going no where. spitting sputtering ...

The check engine light is NOT illuminated .... a friend lent me his OBD II reader, no codes as I figured, due to CEL not illuminated.

The car is up on jack stands. I will do the fuel lines ... pretty rusted, live in south but car came from the north ... and the fuel filter. If the situation continues, I suppose I should try a fuel pressure test and vacuum test.

Doesnt look like the Chyrsler environment can really say whats up with the info that I have provided. Anybody having a clue as to what might be going on is welcome, and even encouraged ... pleeeeeeeeeez to respond

Thanks alot
Chris




 
  #2  
Old 07-31-2007, 05:53 PM
Manybrews's Avatar
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Join Date: May 2003
Location: United States
Posts: 1,187
Default RE: Severe Sag / Hesitation 2.5l 6G73

ORIGINAL: sumncguy


I have a 96 Sebring with a Mitsubishi 2.5l 6G73 ... I dont mean to intrude but Im having problems getting this answered in the Chrysler environment. If the info I found is correct, the 90-02 Diamante and 92-96 Galant also have the identical version engine.
unfortunatly, no mitsu ever used that engine. the diamantes had 3.0 liters, and the galant never got the 2.5 liter.
The version you have is also using chrysler fuel injection. Only the engine itself is mitsubishi sourced.
Ok so ...
All of this started when I had a mechanic do wires and plugs. The car was running ok, prior to plugs and wires. This mechanic put Bosch double platinum plugs in, was told by a Chrysler tech that "ONLY ONLY ONLY" Champion dub plats.
Ill tell you NEVER to use champion plugs in a mitsu. Only NGKs. But they're not causing your issue.
Some history :

Champion Plugs put in a few days before the stuff below,

Rotor and Dist. Cap, Valve cover seals and gaskets, Egr valve and transducer replaced with OEM, Mopar parts (Neighbor is the parts manager at the local Dodge dealer and I get 25 % off.)

Car .. well the car is doing the same thing ... I needed to all of this anyway, but my work did not correct the issue.

The car runs ok for about five minutes.
Gradually, hesitation increases. As it increases idle becomes irradic.
Eventually (probably after 7 or 10 minutes), when stopping at a light or stop sign, intermittently rpms will drop very low, the Oil light comes as the car stalls or it comes back up to about 7 or 8 hundred rpms. If it stalls, it hard starting it again, but it does crank and eventually will go over after a few tries. If it doesnt stall, and I step on the gas to pull away, I get a very severe sag, hesitation ... hit gas but going no where. spitting sputtering ...
sounds like more of a coil/distributor issue. your description fits that of secondary ignition issues, but you've already covered 90 percent of it from the sounds of it.

The check engine light is NOT illuminated .... a friend lent me his OBD II reader, no codes as I figured, due to CEL not illuminated.

The car is up on jack stands. I will do the fuel lines ... pretty rusted, live in south but car came from the north ... and the fuel filter. If the situation continues, I suppose I should try a fuel pressure test and vacuum test.
absolutly. your problem is not from a clogged filter, but you may have fuel pressure issues.

Doesnt look like the Chyrsler environment can really say whats up with the info that I have provided. Anybody having a clue as to what might be going on is welcome, and even encouraged ... pleeeeeeeeeez to respond

Thanks alot
Chris
your average "dodge and chrysler" tech is not really all that bright. Unfortunatly, your car is using non-mitsu injection.
However, its still just a car. I suggest taking it to a GOOD mechanic (possibly a mitsu guy) if you cant figure it out.


 
  #3  
Old 07-31-2007, 07:10 PM
silvercoupe97's Avatar
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Colorado Springs, CO.
Posts: 3,430
Default RE: Severe Sag / Hesitation 2.5l 6G73

The crank sensor on that 6g73 will also cause those issues after being warmed up as your motor is doing.
I always suggest stock plugs.
PFR5G-11 NGK is NGK's double platinum plugs, which is also denoted to be stock for the 2.5L on their site. http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/part_fi...uv/results.asp
Anyway, if you have the original crank sensor, it's time to change it out. This item starts to act up in the similar fashion your motor is acting. The cam sensor that's built into the distributor assembly can also cause this.

What you need to find out is if you have spark, fuel, and...well, you probably have within spec combustion pressures, but it never hurts to have that checked or check it yourself with a dry and wet compression test.
Do the spark and fuel check after the motor starts to act up and we can help diagnose it better afterwards, or at least to test my theory.
 
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