Hey guys! Ok, so in my intro thread, I touched on my situation with my car. So, I'm copy/pasting it here, and rewording it slightly. Feel free to ask me any questions in order to find the best solution! This is a 1998 Galant ES. There are no mods to it, it's completely stock, save for the stereo that was in when I got it lol. But that doesn't count
Basically, I got the car at a good discount (paid $400 total) because the water pump was failed. There was water always pouring from it whenever the radiator was filled. So, we got a new WP, replaced a belt (the guy at AutoZone determined it was an AC belt) that had been so worn, it literally had half of the treads missing, and worn enough to snap so there was just a broken belt there. And we also replaced a freeze plug in the cam that had a puncture that was spilling water.
PRIOR to these repairs, the car had been driving decently (decently enough to drive home (yes, I limped it about 5 miles) and to drive to test stuff)
After we pulled everything, replaced the pump, all that good stuff, the car won't start. It turns and WANTS to go vroom, but not catching and firing. We've checked all the timings and followed the repair book we got down to the wire. I'm at a loss of words for how to fix this.
If you need more details on this, I'll gladly answer as soon as I can. I want to get this car running asap

 

no. Youve overlooked something.

 

i'd appreciate any suggestions you may have about what i've overlooked? i'll gladly go back and reevaluate my work if there is somewhere you feel i'm overlooking.

 

things that make the engine go. Coil? Fuel at the cylinders? Plugs and leads good?
Changing a water pump shouldnt affect any of that. You said youd 'folowd the manual down the wire', i say, youve overlookd something.
There is also no such thing as a 'frost plug on a cam'

what engine? 6g? Vr4?

 

coils are fine. there's fuel coming in, and the plugs and leads are all spotless (for an engine anyways)
there are sensors that must be disconnected from mine while working my way down to the water pump. (at least 1. I know because I did the work myself. I can take pictures of every step if you want to dispute that)
also, i said FREEZE plug. it's a plug that goes at the top, behind the cam shaft "gear" at the uppermost driver-side part of the engine, behind the plastic cover. I've always referred to it as a freeze plug. there may be other names for it, but the name doesn't indicate its to prevent freezing or frosting. again, i can take pictures of these things if you want to dispute this.
i checked the sticker under the hood, and i'm not sure exactly how to tell which is which. i'm sure there are differences, just not sure how to tell what i have. mind helping out with this? (in a, prefereably, more RESPECTFUL tone?)

 

no disrespect intended. Im just blunt in my delivery.
Im not disputing anything, either, you tell me engine doesnt work, im telling you something is wrong.

Have you CHECKED the spark, or replaced the plugs/wires?
How do you know theyre getting fuel? Do they smell like fuel when its been cranked?
have you TESTED the coil(s)?

Freeze plug=frost plug=cold plug. I know what they are, theyre a result of block casting and for some stupid reason brass hasnt become standard.
What displacement, and type is the engine?
Ie an early 90s inline 4 2litre is probably a 4g63, while a late 90s v6 3lt is a 6g73.
You can google 'debunking mitsi engine codes' or 'how can i tell what engine model i have'

also, for 400$ id expect problems, so check compression because they may have blown the head by overheating...
Is there oil in the water or water in the oil?

 

spark has been tested.. it's good. the gaps on the plugs have been checked and measured. (my brother knows this stuff and has done it properly)
there's definitely a fuel smell when its cranked
its a late 90's (1998) model 2.4L. the engine family sticker says 4g1G, which is supposed to be an Orion version. which, according to Wiki, doesn't make sense because i've got a 2.4L. it says so on the sticker

the only engine error code recieved is a P0505, which is a "idle control system malfunction", but that was there when i got the car, and i can address after it starts again.

 

well, let us know how compression testing goes, and head check.
From memory you should be running a bpr8 or bp7 plug,
.8mm gap, but if theyve got good blue crack then theyll be right.

 

Akzle, so sorry for the long delay, but turns out, someone came by and looked at the engine, tried to start it, and then checked out the distributor. Apparently, both the book and my bro were wrong. We were off on the timing by about 90 degrees. The car fires right up and runs great. Onto the next projects! lol

I appreciate your assistance here, without a doubt, you are awesome.