Car stutters and tach goes crazy betweek 2 and 3k rpm Galant 4G64
#1
Car stutters and tach goes crazy betweek 2 and 3k rpm Galant 4G64
While I'm driving the car will stutter between 2k and 3k rpm. While it stutters the tachometer goes crazy but only in that range. It runs fine and the tach is operating normally when below 2k or above 3k.
Had the same problem with the previous carb and a lot of parts have been changed recently but the problem is slowly getting more noticeable. It feels more like an electrical problem than anything else.
In the last 3 months the parts changed have been;
Carb, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel pump and filter, starter, alternator, battery and timing belt.
The problem has always been there. And there is no ECU in this specific model.
Does anyone have any ideas? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Had the same problem with the previous carb and a lot of parts have been changed recently but the problem is slowly getting more noticeable. It feels more like an electrical problem than anything else.
In the last 3 months the parts changed have been;
Carb, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel pump and filter, starter, alternator, battery and timing belt.
The problem has always been there. And there is no ECU in this specific model.
Does anyone have any ideas? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Last edited by posceola; 03-11-2011 at 07:01 PM. Reason: accidentally submitted post before completion
#3
Thanks for the advice and the quick reply.
Its a 94 but its not the US version. Tested the compressions saturday and everything looks good. I was thinking maybe the distributor?
Its a 94 but its not the US version. Tested the compressions saturday and everything looks good. I was thinking maybe the distributor?
Last edited by posceola; 03-13-2011 at 12:28 PM. Reason: add photo
#5
Thanks again for the quick reply.
It is a nightmare. This has been driving me crazy for months and no one can seem to find the problem. I've gone to through 3 or 4 professional mechanics so far.
I got the car cheap due to non-working conditions. For now with all the repairs it can drive ok as long as I keep it out of that RPM range but I would love to get it fixed.
It is a nightmare. This has been driving me crazy for months and no one can seem to find the problem. I've gone to through 3 or 4 professional mechanics so far.
I got the car cheap due to non-working conditions. For now with all the repairs it can drive ok as long as I keep it out of that RPM range but I would love to get it fixed.
#6
There is nothing I would change, that you haven't done already.
If you think the distributor could be changed then go for it.
Personally if you don't know what the problem is, I think just replacing things is counter productive. You need to seriously find out what the problem is here.
It COULD be the distributor, but I can't think of why it would be only in that RPM range and so inconsistent.
You say that the tach goes crazy, what do you mean by that? It could be something electrical. Where does the tach get its RPM signal from?
If you think the distributor could be changed then go for it.
Personally if you don't know what the problem is, I think just replacing things is counter productive. You need to seriously find out what the problem is here.
It COULD be the distributor, but I can't think of why it would be only in that RPM range and so inconsistent.
You say that the tach goes crazy, what do you mean by that? It could be something electrical. Where does the tach get its RPM signal from?
#7
Most of the parts changed were necessary and independent from this problem. Most everything was worn out or wearing out. The previous owner left the car in pretty bad shape.
The tach will move back and forth quickly over the whole meter but only when the engine is between 2 and 3k. It runs smooth before and after that range.
Thanks, I'll check on where it gets the signal from and test it, I'll post back with an update.
The tach will move back and forth quickly over the whole meter but only when the engine is between 2 and 3k. It runs smooth before and after that range.
Thanks, I'll check on where it gets the signal from and test it, I'll post back with an update.
#10
Just took a quick look to see if anything seemed out of place. Didnt find much, but the posts in the cap are looking a little corroded and the rotor has looks burnt. These were replaced around 1 month ago. The center contact of the rotor was completely black. I'm not sure if this indicates anything.
Next weekend I'll have the electric system checked by a specialist to see if anything can be found.
Next weekend I'll have the electric system checked by a specialist to see if anything can be found.