Idle Air Control Motor '06 Lancer 2.0 Vin E
 

Hello,

I'm hoping someone can help me out. I own a 2006 Lancer OZ Rally with the 2.0 SOHC Vin E motor. manual 5 spd trans.
My idle air control motor went out, and to replace it on this vehicle evidently means you replace the motor AND the heated aluminum casting that screws on to the bottom of the throttle body. I say it went out as when the vehicle is cold, it does not idle... AS the car warms up, the idle creeps from 400/500, up to the 750/800rpm when it is fully warm. When it is fully warm, it idles perfect. Also, when i removed the IACM from the housing and turned the key on, there was no movement. Also, the length of the pintle from the end of the solenoid part when cold did not change once the car was warm... Also, when using an Ohmeter on the pins (1-2, 2-3, 4-5, 5-6) i am getting very low readings (low 20's) to 0 resistance on 4-5 and 5-6 so, I am feeling it is bad.

Well, I got a new one (Airtex 2H1395). However, I have a question. When I look at my old one, it seems that the pintle end of the IACM is flush with the housing. However the new one, there is a 1/4" space between the end of the IACM pintle and the housing. This didn't bother me at first.

I disconnected the battery, then changed the IACM/Housing. I let the Car sit overnight to make sure the computer was reset, and then in the morning, I started it up.

The car immediatly ran up to 3500 RPM.. after running for a minute, it went down to 1500, then popped back up to 3000... then down to 1500, then back to 3000.... this went on for about 5-10 minutes and then the car just idled at 3000 RPM.

Is there a way to adjust the idle ON the IACM? Or, is there a chance that the IACM is incorrect? OR.. did I not let the car run long enough to adjust? It ran aobut 15-20 minutes or so.. I didn't drive it... That space is now bothering me between the pintle and casting....

This part ran me $250, and if I purchase a NAPA brand it is 450ish....

What would you more experianced folks do?