2001 Mirage, acts like timing is off
 

My son's car is a 2001 Mirage, with 1.8. Had to change timing belt and replace all exhaust valves. Lapped the valves to make sure they seal good, both exhaust and intake are fine. Had a problem for months, not getting power to the fuel pump. Finally figured out the problem was the battery. Even though it had power, once you put a draw on it, the voltage would drop to 8-9 volts, not enough to run anything. Figured that out by checking power while turning the key and watched it drop. That's why there wasn't enough power to keep it running. Now that that's figured out, as it cranks, it acts like the time is out. It kicks and sputters like when a distributor cap is out of timing. But, there is no distributor on this engine. It has 2 coils on top, and each coil runs 2 spark plugs. I did not remove the timing gear from the cam when I did the valve job. The timing marks clearly line up with the marks on the gears and engine, top an bottom sides. So, how can it act like the timing is off with distributor less system? All the wire connectors are connected. All fuses are good. Fuel relays are both good. The last time it ran, it was like it's missing on a cylinder, just like it did before I changed the valves, after only changing the timing belt, but quieter. But now it's just not starting with good battery. When I used starting fluid to try to start it, it backfired and blew the screen off the air flow sensor.
Any help would be appreciated.

Thank you.

Okay, just thought I would ask about it anyway, even after I saw a post 3 years old that no one replied to telling the person asking the question to check for a vacuum leak, since that would explain what they were experiencing. I was still hoping someone could help.
Basically, I'm at the point of why would it backfire with a distributor less system? The fuel problem was just do to the battery voltage dropping with a power draw. It did run rough for a little bit, but now just backfires, and kicks back when cranking the engine.

Well, ends up the battery is bad. It shows 12+ volts, then when you put a load on it, the voltage drops to 8 volts, not enough for the fuel pump to run. I only found out when I put a voltage meter in place of the fuel pump, via the connector by the right rear passengers seat, and watched it as I turned the key. Even though the starter would turn the engine over, it didn't have enough for the fuel pump too. And to bring it to the second part of the problem, it would backfire because the crank position sensor went bad at the same time. When I test the CPS, it doesn't even register a a resistance, just open circuit. Why wouldn't the computer at least tell you there is no reading from the CPS to make trouble shooting easier? It sure tells me if something else isn't, like if the TPS isn't even connected, the first time you turn the key to start.

Well, I replaced the crank shaft position sensor, and it still does not run. It kicks back like the timing is off, but all the timing marks line up perfectly. Distributor-less ignition, so what else can make it not run like this? Plenty of spark. Cam position sensor tests good.

Does anyone read these posts? I have a pile of Mitsubishi in the driveway the city want's me to get rid of, since I can't get help to fix it, it's time to just junk it.

I may have finally found the answer. I have to pull the front apart tomorrow to check for a slipped reluctor from the crank gear. The expert I have to pay says this sounds like the exact thing to cause this problem I am having.

I think I can help you. First and foremost, send me your regular email. I have the factory service manual for a 1999 mitsubishi mirage in pdf format. It used to be available but the link to it doesn't work anymore and I saved it months ago, it goes over the 1.5 and 1.8 and might be the same for you, at the very least it will help. I don't think I can email you through this forum with it as it is a large file. I'll try though. I have the 1.5liter 2000 mirage but if yours is anything like mine, I'd bet you have an issue with your egr valve and/or catalytic converter, especially if you have a California emissions vehicle (with two catalytic converters). I was bogging for months, with reduced mpgs before finding out the egr was plugged solid with soot. It wasn't just the egr valve that was plugged, but the entire port. I had to remove my exhaust manifold and scrub a tunnel from my cylinder no. 3 port through my head all the way to the intake manifold where it meets the egr assembly. I also had no codes....active or pending to let me know. My catalytic converter was impossible to check since it was one piece with a curved pipe on the inlet side, but if it comes down to it, you can use a long drill bit and drill one 1/4 inch hole through it length wise to allow for more exhaust gas to go through it. They will plug from the inlet side. If you can take yours out and if it is a straight pipe, put a light on one side and see if you can see some light on the other side. If you see light, the cat is good enough and no drilling is necessary. if you cannot see light, drill just one hole through it, no more than that. You'll get a catalytic converter code if you go more than one hole. I know, it appears there aren't too many people that use this forum, also it doesn't list the newest posts without clicking on the newest post at the top of the topics, then it comes in order.

Well, I finally found out what was going on with it.
#1 - Reluctor plate pins sheared and was not in the proper position.
#2 - Got the spark plug wires wrong, instead of the one on the right going all the way across to #1 plug, I had it going to #3. If I had a book, or even the memory card that I took picture before with, (which I loaned that memory card to my brother-in-law and was suppose to get it back the next day, months ago) I would have seen that. lol
Compression on cylinder #2 is really low, but it runs now. It is noisy, thought the tappets or lifters were hydraulic and should adjust by them selves. But that book would really help with this. I could not find a book in the library.
Now, I do get a pending code of P0455 - EVAP System Large Leak. So I need to trace that down before I try to smog it. And, it seems to take forever for the OBD checks to finish enough to smog it.
This car has been a big pain in the you know what. rofl
I will send a PM to you with my e-mail.
Thank you.

pdfs sent in multiple emails to you. as far as the p0455, check the gas cap or find the hose you may have forgotten to reconnect when you were working on it! that cyl #2....just how different was it from the others? you just did the valves on it, right? lots of miles? are you the original owner? If you decide to go with the hydraulic lash adjuster cleaning, do yourself a favor and read my topic post...I just cured my 9 year old problem with them clacking without buying new ones.

Forget when I was putting the fuel pump connector on, after removing it and checking it, I lost one of the nuts for it. When I put it back together, I still had not found it. When I put it together, it was still lost and loose. Found the nut afterwards and I just put it on the other day. So that is fixed, but taking forever to check off the drive cycle checks for it to pass a smog. Evap system test and EGR test incomplete. Just need one more to pass to smog it. About a whole tank of gas used already and still 2 left.