Very thorough in your read of my thread. Yes Cylinder 6 (see Post 16) in my case is the lone Class A piston (and the one with the misfire) with the others all Class B. I too had concerns regarding the piston ring selections due to this case but all information I could find, and going to Mitsubishi and having them run the parts, all showed the same ring pack regardless of Class A, B or C piston. Hence I proceeded down this path. Perhaps the dealers parts book is full of crap, but you cannot buy individual ring packs per each piston Class so there is no other option short of boring out the block to an oversize, yet the factory somehow built this engine with select fit pistons.

I'm also not confident that I was at TDC during my "poor man's leak down test" as there are not TDC marks for each cylinder and suspect that I was not at TDC thus valves may not have been fully seated thus the air leakage heard may have been from an open valve.

You may be on to something, I don't know, but I have zero interest in going back into the engine. That was a 7 month project.

 

I have been searching high and low on anything to do with removing, rebuilding, and reinstalling a Montero engine... and here you are having done a thorough description on MY YEAR! Thanks so much for your thoroughness. You have answered a bunch of my questions, and helped with a bunch of tech specs that I had no way of finding, seeing as NO ONE has the manuals except for the $300 online version. I am in the put back together phase, and am pretty excited to get it going. I am going to take your "wish you had" to heart, and have my heads gone through.
Thanks again. I'll let you know how mine comes out.

 

Thank you for your compliments. When I started that project I too was miffed on the lack of information out there - bits and pieces here and there but nothing A-Z if you will. I am not a professional engine builder by any stretch of the imagination, just a normal garage gear head guy. Thus I chose to document my journey to help others as I have learned a lot front the net.

Here is a link to manuals from a 2003. It is an overseas model, but nonetheless free and quite helpful. Wish you the best on your build. Feel free to PM me if you need any additional details.
http://www.pajero4x4.ru/piii/

 

Larry,
I went back and re-read your post on the cylinder size stamping on the block. What bothers me is the "reversal" of the cylinder order compared to the firing order. I can't figure it out. Normally Left bank (passenger) is cylinders 1-3-5. However, the stamping on the engine says it is 2-4-6. Were you able to resolve that? This makes me wonder if you are getting the misfire on the back cylinder on the driver side instead of the one on the passenger side (not the A size cylinder). That would mean it is a right most coil that fires cylinders 3 and 6.

 

Hunter - Thanks for the continued interest. I too was very unclear on how these engines defined "left bank " vs "right bank" and thus the cylinder numbers. See posts 14 thru 16. In my case the front two pistons were roached so I could say with certainty they were both type B regardless of left vs right. I was very careful in putting parts back to the location they came from, even if I originally named the cylinders wrong.

Originally I was convinced that when looking at an open hood facing the windshield, the passenger side was the left bank and drivers side the right just as you have now posted. See the manual excerpt (6G75 3.8L) which originally confused me.

Later, when I found the diagram posted in Post 16, it clearly showed that cylinders 2-4-6 were on the "left" side (drivers) when sitting in the car looking forward. That is when I updated the nomenclature. This is also consistent with the diagram I found in the timing belt section of the manual (posted here).

With the hood open looking at the engine facing the windshield, the coil on the far right side (drivers side) feeds cylinders 3-6 (ie, when sitting in the car, the cylinder on the drivers side closest to the windshield is #6 while one adjacent radiator 2). I have switched the wires (wasted spark scheme) on this coil and I have replaced it as well; no luck.

For ****s and grins, I may swap the wires on the 5/2 coil to see if the rear passenger cylinder (5) is the problem. Then maybe swap the 5/2 coil with the 4/1 coil. From Post 138 the 3/6 coil is unique.

I'm glad I wrote this all down as there is no way in heck I could remember this journey.

On a good note, still being driven near daily.

 

Yes, I remember going through this Right/Left business way back too. I must have read the same manual as you did I finally figured out that standing in front of the vehicle, looking at the engine, the bank on your left (right bank ) is Bank 1 and has cylinders 1,3 and 5.
What was (still is...) confusing to me, is the post where you deciphered the engine block stampings. Makes me wonder if the stamping marks refer to the Right/Left banks in the same orientation as on the timing image. In that case #6 cylinder is the one closest to the driver. To me it would seem to make much more sense to stamp the cylinder markings as:
X X XX
X X X
indicating simply which holes on the block go where. This way just looking at the stamping you can see what is where regardless which way the block is rotated and where the timing belt might be.
Anyhow, I'm still impressed with your full rebuild. I think trying to swap the coils is a good idea. You can try to just swap the coil (leave the wires as is). Then, if no change - swap the wires too. That way you can eliminate the coil and the wires separately.

 

This has been the most pain in the a$$ part of the job so far! Removing those seals killed my hands.

 

So I got in all of my bearings/rings/gaskets in today! Still cleaning the heads, and am wondering if I should remove the camshaft. This engine spun a #2 bearing, but had no other issues. All compressions were good, and engine was strong. What are your thoughts?

 

My engine spun 2 rod bearings and there was very fine metal debris throughout the engine. To that end, I took everything apart so that all of the oil passages could be thoroughly cleaned. I think this should be your concern as well. This included removal of the cams from the heads to clean these oil passages along with thoroughly cleaning out the rocker shafts and rockers (after removal of the VLAs).

The cams are removed out the back of the head after removal of the timing gear and the rear cam seal plates. Reinstalling the timing gears and torquing the bolt to spec was a PIA as I had to rig up some straps to hold the gear while torquing the bolt. I did not have the factory tool to hold the gear. I tried to install a bolt into the head to engage one of the gear spokes but it bent the bolt so don't do this.

 

larry4406,
Any updates on your #6 cylinder misfire?