it doesn’t take much force to hold them on the 3000gts, I’d imagine it works on monteros but haven’t actually done it yet. I plan to!

 

@Naeos_Valkarian the bolts that hold the tensioner on are the right length and thread pitch to make something work. I will post a pic on reassembly. Currently getting *** kicked by camshaft seals, but making it up as I go lol

 

EGR issues: I found, on my 2002 with 123000 miles, the EGR solenoid was electrically defective. It is easy to check. I also broke a wire in the solenoid connector cable and had to repair it.

Cylinder head and valves: I removed the intake plenum to change plugs and wires and found many sparkplug tube seals leaking, so pulled off the valve covers, and it was a good thing I did. I was glad I did because the left cam and valve area was heavily gummed up with an oily tar. I was doing the timing belt so I pulled the cams off, disassembled and cleaned out all oil passages on the cams as well. It had smoked a lot so I used a rope down the plug holes and changed 5 cylinders' valve seals as well. The leaking valve cover had fried the alternator, giving me a parasitic drain,, so I got one with a shield for that vehicle.

Lifters: I originally had ticking lifters but cleaned and reused them. There is a procedure for bleeding them after assembling at 3000 RPM. I did it twice after assembly and the ticking went away.

Front end things: If you do anything with the front wheel bearings, they are loaded the same way any loaded bearing is assembled. Without preloading they will be loose and the truck will wander all over the road. Previous owner told me he had "changed them but it didn't work". They should be cleaned and greased periodically anyway, but you may be suffering from a PO who didn't know how to reassemble them properly.

I had to set the steering box worm gear clearance three times to get it right. Well worth doing. My suspension was all ok and my wandering problems were loose wheel bearings and normal wear on the steering box. After an alignment it handled like a new vehicle and was a joy to drive. It is important to service the bearings before aligning, of course.

Transmission: I had an open circuit code for the transmission temp sensor. Trans would slam from gear to gear when warm. It is a common problem due to the plastic connector's locking tab breaking off. Drop the pan and wire the connector back. Use stainless steel aircraft grade wire if available. Otherwise use copper. Use only Mitsubishi fluid.

 

Ok so I’m down to just code 33 for 4wd, new solenoids fixed code 35. Any suggestions on that?

 

Try this:
https://www.justanswer.com/mitsubish...ock-light.html

Like the above post suggests, I would replace the associated vacuum lines to start. Also look for any related vacuum leaks, like possible housing cracks. No rubber can be trusted after 20 years.

Also do a Google search on code 33 montero.

 

I have the same code showing up. Although I have a 2003 Montero Limited with the 3.8 6G75. I found the hissing finally with starter fluid on the very front of my intake manifold where the rod connecting all the butterflys comes through. The plastic washers were wallowed out and I couldn't find or find a way to replace just them. Which worked out because when I pulled off the intake manifold to replace plugs I found that a couple of the butterflys were sucked into the valves and chewed up anyway. ha d to replace the entire intake manifold assy. and pull the heads to cleanout tiny peices of metal. Thank God no major damage. So, I got that back together, same code. Swaped out the wires and ignition coils +too. My Monty has around 217,000 miles. Same codes. Pulled the timing cover to have a look at the belt and it look pretty old so I change the timing belt, pullys, tensioner and water pump just because I was in there. Same codes. I dont like to throw parts at something unless I'm sure. Sure wish I would have this time because I think those codes and intermittent stumbling and stalling as well as hard cold starts are from a failing crankshaft angle position sensor. I'm Not possitive though and I'm not at all sure how to check it. Hope this helps some. My advice is try and check and be sure before shutgunning these rigs. Good Luck. Please keep me in the loop.

 

@Xjfire i solved my issue, belt was a tooth off from a mechanic who botched the job.

 

TrilkB
What engine do you have? Is it the 3.8? Do you know if I have to pull the crank gear to get to the crank sensor? I did my timing belt about 2 and a half or 3 years ago and I can't remember. As hooky as that sounds. It'll be a good time to recheck timing marks anyway again. I just remember it being a pain in the butt holding things in alignment putting the T belt back on.

 

Thanks for your reply too. I'm not having a lot of luck on the forum yet. But I'm new and I'm career Army with a lot of combat. Patients isn't my strong suit. Work in progress. Thanks man.

 

@Xjfire I have a 3.5L. 01-02 is 3.5L 03-06 is 3.8L (in USA). Not 100% sure on the crank sensor but I think you can leave the crank gear on, if not I beleive on these engines it should just slide off, its not pressed on.

The way I do timing belts is I wrap it around the crank, tight up to the drivers side and around the water pump and then around the passenger side. You can use binder clips to hold it to the sprockets on the drivers side, then there should be enough slack to "jump" the teeth on the passenger side if you need to make any adjustments. Gotta use a 17mm wrench so you can be precise.

Another thing you could do is take your timing belt tensioner bolts to the hardware store and match them up with some just a little bit shorter and buy some large washers. There are bolt holes behind the sprockets that you could use lock the cams in place. Also you can take cardboard and cut it so it wraps around the crank gear and holds the belt on better while messing with the rest to make sure it wont fall off.