I am in the process of changing the timing belt on my '05 Montero. I used the starter trick with a breaker bar to get the crankshaft bolt loose and in the process messed uop some of the threads on the bolt. I took the bolt to Tacoma Screw and got a tap for it (M14 x 1.5) and ordered a new bolt from the dealer. I am now re-tapping the threads on the crankshaft and having two problems:

1. The thread tapper is only going in about 3/4" before encountering major resistance
2. When the tap encounters resistance the crankshaft starts to turn.

My major questions are:

1. Am I using the right size tapper?
2. Does anyone have a bolt/fastener size/thread gauge spec sheet?
3. How can I lock the crankshaft while I am re-tapping the threads without the pulley installed?

Thanks, I am stumped.

Mike

 

Donpedro, sorry you are having issues with crank bolt. Did your bolt come out in one piece or did it break? The thread size does sound right.

The distance from the washer (front end of the harmonic balancer) to the end of the bolt is about 40mm (1.5 inches). Considering that the edge of the harmonic balancer does not sit flush with the end of the crankshaft, the depth of the hole is probably a less than that, but it could be deep enough to for the full thread.

You can try two things:
1. Get a small mirror and a flashlight and take a look into the hole to see if threads terminate early, or you have good clean bored end to the hole.
2. Re-install the timing gear and harmonic balancer. Install the new crankshaft bolt. If the bolt does NOT bottom out early - you are good. If it bottoms out early and does not secure the pulley - our thread is ether still messed up, or there is something left in the hole.

That will give you an idea of what is going on there. I would advise against locking the crankshaft as you are trying to re-tap it. The thread repair should not take that much effort.
Make sure that shavings from the re-tapping did not get stuck in the bottom of the hole. Use some compressed air or a long slender pick to clean out debris.

No matter which way you go, repairing the thread should not take so much effort that you need to lock the crankshaft.

 

Thanks for the reply HunterD. It took some patience and a lot of elbow grease but I got it tapped well enough to seat the bolt!

 

I got it all back together and it would not start. Can anyone point me to a resource on how to check TDC without removing the whole top of the engine? I can't find anything that walks me through tthe process. the service manual just says to make sure its at TDC. When I pulled the old belt off all the marks lined up.

 

Does it sounds right when you turn over? As in - it has compression... Check that you plugged in the crank position sensor (on the front of the engine.

 

It sounds like it almost cranks on the first spin but it doesn't. I had the sensors all plugged in. The crank position sensor was plugged in. I don't know why it wouldn't have compression unless that is a simple condition of setting the timing on the wrong stroke. I replaced the belt because the tensioner was going out and the belt was making lots of noise.

1. How do I make sure the engine is at TDC on the #1 cylinder?
2. What would cause the motor to not have compression besides a bent/broken valve/lifter if it had compression when I started?
3. Is the sensor affected by cleanliness of the plate behind the crankshaft sprocket or all magnetic?

 

The reason I was asking about compression was to eliminate bad timing/bent valves. If the sound of cranking is not rhythmic it would be easy to notice. Since your state the cranking sound is normal, and you had compression before installing the intake manifold, it is safe to presume your timing and valves are OK. The only way to find TDC on #1 is to take off the intake manifold and spark plug(s). Then put a plastic straw into the cylinder and slowly rotate the engine (by hand) until the straw stops rising, Before you go that direction, check that you have spark. You can do that at the coils. Also, check that the fuse for fuel pump didn't get blown out by accident.

 

pull out your #1 spark plug stick a LOOOOOOOG screwdriver or something similar in the hole. make sure its long, last thing you want is for it to fall in the hole.
rotate the motor( by hand) to where the piston pushed it up the highest it will go.
-that's the most basic way.

There is also a notch on the plate the sits behind the harmonic balancer, there is a timing mark on the on the motor that shows where is goes.
If I had to describe where it is, I'd say it's about minute 2 or 3 on clock.

side note there is also a little spacer(of some sort) back there they both sit only one way thanks to a couple of tiny location pins