Temp Gauge
#1
Temp Gauge
Hello all Im new on this forum and new owner of 2003 montero limited. Just recently purchase this vehicle and I love everything about it. I notice that the temp gauge rise up to the hot when I first start the car and the engine
is cold. once the engine warms up the temp gauge goes down to the middle point. When I turn the car off and the needle goes down as normal, then I start the car back up and the needle goes all the way up to the hot. Then as I'm driving the needle goes back to the middle. Dose any body know what the problem is? or is this is normal?
Thanks
is cold. once the engine warms up the temp gauge goes down to the middle point. When I turn the car off and the needle goes down as normal, then I start the car back up and the needle goes all the way up to the hot. Then as I'm driving the needle goes back to the middle. Dose any body know what the problem is? or is this is normal?
Thanks
#3
Definitely a common issue. On the circut board of the instrument cluster there is little...actually im not sure what its called but... heres a couple links on how to fix it...but be very carefull cause you can short out the entire temp gauge.
Mitsubishi Pajero Faulty Engine Temperature Gauge: http://youtu.be/HTqxmSLe92U
http://www.pajero.guru/how-to-fix-the-faulty-temp-gauge-on-a-pajeroshogunmontero-nm-2001-1003/
Mitsubishi Pajero Faulty Engine Temperature Gauge: http://youtu.be/HTqxmSLe92U
http://www.pajero.guru/how-to-fix-the-faulty-temp-gauge-on-a-pajeroshogunmontero-nm-2001-1003/
#4
same issue on my 1990
Temp guage(dummy guage) doesn't go last the first notch. I'm gonna replace the thermostat see what happens. As for the wiring its clean with minor issues such as the most sensitive horn on the steering wheel ever! Multiple ways of honking be it push pill turn grip or hand drumming. Everyone gets the horn!
#5
jhill15, thank you so much for your links. I followed the second on and did added a touch of solder on either side and my temp gauge works perfectly now. I almost made a video so one would exist. Really wish I had now. I waiting on some new bulbs to arrive, as I have at least one out, before screwing everything back down. I plan on replacing some of them with LED bulbs since they are known to go out over time.
#6
Thats awesome man, good to hear you got it fixed! I need to do this to my fuel gauge as well. There isnt much online for the fuel gauge as it isnt as common as the temp gauge. But I think I will pull the cluster and look for cracks in the soldering with a magnifying glass. Did you use a normal size soldering gun or a micro size one? I know harbor freight sells some micro soldering guns so I think I will pick one up.
#7
jhill15, thanks for the links! I noticed a similar looking resistor along the edge just above the R10. Because it was similar, I went ahead and added a little solder to that one also on both ends. {It was R12} I might assume the second one is for the fuel gauge. It would certainly be worth a try no harder than it is to do. If not, my next guess would be the sensor gauge in the fuel tank. GMs were famous for going bad there, but I would start with the cluster since this is not a GM and there is far less cost involved. {Looking at the photo again, I see there are a lot more "R" resistors. In fact, R46 is in the photo. I might start with a volt meter to quickly check them or a big magnifying glass. If you can't find anything, you could always just heat each end up with the iron to maybe bridge any cracks.}
I did used more of a micro soldering iron. I just happened to have one. I don't know that it is essential to the task, but it doesn't hurt either.
I did used more of a micro soldering iron. I just happened to have one. I don't know that it is essential to the task, but it doesn't hurt either.
Last edited by mlduncan96; 02-26-2015 at 07:59 AM. Reason: added some info in { }
#8
Definitely a common issue. On the circut board of the instrument cluster there is little...actually im not sure what its called but... heres a couple links on how to fix it...but be very carefull cause you can short out the entire temp gauge.
Mitsubishi Pajero Faulty Engine Temperature Gauge: http://youtu.be/HTqxmSLe92U
How to fix the faulty temp gauge on a Pajero/Shogun/Montero NM (2001-1003) | Pajero.guru
Mitsubishi Pajero Faulty Engine Temperature Gauge: http://youtu.be/HTqxmSLe92U
How to fix the faulty temp gauge on a Pajero/Shogun/Montero NM (2001-1003) | Pajero.guru
I replaced my gauge cluster at 106K, got a killer price on a salvage unit. Unfortunately after a few thousand miles it also developed the fuel gauge issue.
I remembered the pajero.guru procedure above and just did it this morning. Using a fine point soldering iron I just heated up the solder to make a good connection on each end of the R10 resistor and then used a magnifying glass to check my work.
Back to normal. Make sure if you do this to do the last step, remove the plexi and press the speedo face to reseat the multi pin connectors. If not, your speedo probably won't register.
Take your time and you will be successful, it's not difficult.
#9
UPDATE
When I resoldered R10 I only heated the existing solder and this did not keep, I ended up with an intermittent temp gauge. More research on how to solder circuit boards was required.
I went back in today with a clean micro-tipped iron because a clean tip is required to fully transfer heat. Then I added some solder at each end using fine gauge rosin core solder--you can get this at radio shack. Temperature gauge is now perfect.
Many have asked about the fuel gauge. Mine was working but wandering around and not showing a full tank. Not knowing which Resistor was applicable, I soldered R12 and R46. Be careful, R46 is tiny. Now, the fuel gauge is perfect.
If you are careful the process is not difficult but having a micro-tip iron and fine solder was a key for me. And worth the trouble.
When I resoldered R10 I only heated the existing solder and this did not keep, I ended up with an intermittent temp gauge. More research on how to solder circuit boards was required.
I went back in today with a clean micro-tipped iron because a clean tip is required to fully transfer heat. Then I added some solder at each end using fine gauge rosin core solder--you can get this at radio shack. Temperature gauge is now perfect.
Many have asked about the fuel gauge. Mine was working but wandering around and not showing a full tank. Not knowing which Resistor was applicable, I soldered R12 and R46. Be careful, R46 is tiny. Now, the fuel gauge is perfect.
If you are careful the process is not difficult but having a micro-tip iron and fine solder was a key for me. And worth the trouble.
Last edited by SpyVito; 12-26-2015 at 06:13 AM.
#10
I have the same year montero and determined it's in the instrument cluster. I'm thinking of sending my instrument cluster to Module Master for $150.00 to repair. Have you heard of this place? Currently researching before I send it.