17" rim on 2010 Outlander XLS
#1
02-06-2010, 08:08 PM
17" rim on 2010 Outlander XLS
Hi,
I wanted to know if anybody has tried fitting 17" rims in place of the factory 18" rims on a 2010 Outlander (Canadian) XLS. I am looking at what I need to get for winter driving and it would be nice to go -1, i.e. 17", as 17" winter tires are typically cheaper than 18". If so, what offest and pattern does one need?
Thanks a lot in advance.
I wanted to know if anybody has tried fitting 17" rims in place of the factory 18" rims on a 2010 Outlander (Canadian) XLS. I am looking at what I need to get for winter driving and it would be nice to go -1, i.e. 17", as 17" winter tires are typically cheaper than 18". If so, what offest and pattern does one need?
Thanks a lot in advance.
#3
02-06-2010, 09:00 PM
16 or 17 doesn't really matter. The 16's would be cheaper for sure. Another thing to consider is if you drop in size, you will have to get new rims for those tires. Is it better to just switch them over for a couple of years and get the summer tires on a bigger rim? And then with this whole tpms (junk) it makes it almost impossible for you to rotate your tires yourself. Something about the codes not matching and the lights will go off. Are you going to get new tpms for the smaller rims or have them switched over each season?
Fricken money grab by the tire stores if you ask me.
Bolt pattern is 5x4.5" or 5 on 114.3. I am not sure on the offset but I believe it's in the 38-40 range.
http://1010tires.com/TireSizeCalculator.asp
use that link to help you decide what size to go with.
16 will give you a much softer ride and if you decide to go that route you should get a narrower tire which will give you more traction because there will be more weight on a smaller contact patch. Depends on what you consider acceptable levels of tire sidewall lean. I like it stiff. so I wouldn't consider going all the way down to a 16". Also, from experience... 15" will not clear the brakes so don't even go there. Had to sell a set that I thought I would be able to port over from a previous vehicle.
From experience... since january.... the factory all-seasons have been fine so far. Stopping has only been an issue once (so far) and we will replace the all seasons in the fall when tire selection is WAY better and the factory rebates are in effect.
hope that helps.
Fricken money grab by the tire stores if you ask me.
Bolt pattern is 5x4.5" or 5 on 114.3. I am not sure on the offset but I believe it's in the 38-40 range.
http://1010tires.com/TireSizeCalculator.asp
use that link to help you decide what size to go with.
16 will give you a much softer ride and if you decide to go that route you should get a narrower tire which will give you more traction because there will be more weight on a smaller contact patch. Depends on what you consider acceptable levels of tire sidewall lean. I like it stiff. so I wouldn't consider going all the way down to a 16". Also, from experience... 15" will not clear the brakes so don't even go there. Had to sell a set that I thought I would be able to port over from a previous vehicle.
From experience... since january.... the factory all-seasons have been fine so far. Stopping has only been an issue once (so far) and we will replace the all seasons in the fall when tire selection is WAY better and the factory rebates are in effect.
hope that helps.
Last edited by jasen1; 02-06-2010 at 09:13 PM.
#4
02-07-2010, 01:09 AM
16 or 17 doesn't really matter. The 16's would be cheaper for sure. Another thing to consider is if you drop in size, you will have to get new rims for those tires. Is it better to just switch them over for a couple of years and get the summer tires on a bigger rim? And then with this whole tpms (junk) it makes it almost impossible for you to rotate your tires yourself. Something about the codes not matching and the lights will go off. Are you going to get new tpms for the smaller rims or have them switched over each season?
Fricken money grab by the tire stores if you ask me.
Bolt pattern is 5x4.5" or 5 on 114.3. I am not sure on the offset but I believe it's in the 38-40 range.
http://1010tires.com/TireSizeCalculator.asp
use that link to help you decide what size to go with.
16 will give you a much softer ride and if you decide to go that route you should get a narrower tire which will give you more traction because there will be more weight on a smaller contact patch. Depends on what you consider acceptable levels of tire sidewall lean. I like it stiff. so I wouldn't consider going all the way down to a 16". Also, from experience... 15" will not clear the brakes so don't even go there. Had to sell a set that I thought I would be able to port over from a previous vehicle.
From experience... since january.... the factory all-seasons have been fine so far. Stopping has only been an issue once (so far) and we will replace the all seasons in the fall when tire selection is WAY better and the factory rebates are in effect.
hope that helps.
Fricken money grab by the tire stores if you ask me.
Bolt pattern is 5x4.5" or 5 on 114.3. I am not sure on the offset but I believe it's in the 38-40 range.
http://1010tires.com/TireSizeCalculator.asp
use that link to help you decide what size to go with.
16 will give you a much softer ride and if you decide to go that route you should get a narrower tire which will give you more traction because there will be more weight on a smaller contact patch. Depends on what you consider acceptable levels of tire sidewall lean. I like it stiff. so I wouldn't consider going all the way down to a 16". Also, from experience... 15" will not clear the brakes so don't even go there. Had to sell a set that I thought I would be able to port over from a previous vehicle.
From experience... since january.... the factory all-seasons have been fine so far. Stopping has only been an issue once (so far) and we will replace the all seasons in the fall when tire selection is WAY better and the factory rebates are in effect.
hope that helps.
I didn't think about the TPMS. Do you know how much the valves are? I like having my winter on separate rims as it allows me to swap them over whenever I want and not have to line up with everybody at the first snow.Thanks for the info on the pattern and the offset.
#5
02-07-2010, 05:55 PM
From what I have read, the tpms should only last 5-7 years. Then they need to be replaced cause the battery dies. Personally... I think I am gonna run summer tires without them and deal with the light being on.
tmps:
http://revolutionsupply.com/%28S%281.../AppGuide.aspx
looks like 42-75 bucks for the set of 4 plus shipping of course.
but then again... for 45 bucks or so it might be worth it to get an extra set.
tmps:
http://revolutionsupply.com/%28S%281.../AppGuide.aspx
looks like 42-75 bucks for the set of 4 plus shipping of course.
but then again... for 45 bucks or so it might be worth it to get an extra set.
Last edited by jasen1; 02-07-2010 at 05:57 PM.
#7
02-09-2010, 02:57 PM
I wanted to remove the 18's from my 2007 XLS (just bought with 30K miles) because I don't like the ride that much with them, and the options for snow/aggressive tires are limited. My first idea was to see if the dealer had any OEM 16" rims that had been replaced on another customer's car.
#8
02-10-2010, 02:05 PM
I went to 16" tire/wheel combo because it was cheaper than just the 18" winter tires were! The place I got my winter tire combo from screwed up and got the wrong hub sized steel wheels so they upgraded me to very nice alloy wheels for free. Also the tire sensors they supplied(not factory) didn't work! So I went back a week later and got them to give me the Mitsubishi sensors and everything works great. My Mitsubishi dealer said he would flash the computer for the TPMS for $20. $40 a year is cheap insurance and doesn't void any warranty claims I will ever have to make!
#9
02-12-2010, 05:51 AM
Other link
Pictures of the tires on my Outlander.
https://mitsubishiforum.com/forum/sh...t=30593&page=4
https://mitsubishiforum.com/forum/sh...t=30593&page=4