2007 Outlander Noise from front suspension/brakes
#1
2007 Outlander Noise from front suspension/brakes
Hi,
Today I replaced the front brake pads on my wife's 2007 Outlander AWD. Before I replaced the pads there was a slight grinding from the front, and a 'creak' when the pedal was released after braking (and the car was stationary)
The pads were not worn down to the metal (though they were close), and the rotors are in pretty reasonable condition. The car has 107k miles (and has been trouble free)
After the pads were replaced braking action has definitely improved, and at slow speeds the grinding/creak have disappeared. But, if you brake at anything over about 40mph there is a pretty bad noise that sounds very similar to grinding. However, the car brakes in a straight line. I have double checked that I put the pads in correctly.
The ball joints seems ok (I've tried levering them with a prybar, and cannot see any movement. I strongly suspect that there is a bush failed somewhere, and the improved braking is now causing a vibration -but I was wondering if anyone else had seen similar symptons, and could help me narrow it down.
Thanks in advance
Steve
Today I replaced the front brake pads on my wife's 2007 Outlander AWD. Before I replaced the pads there was a slight grinding from the front, and a 'creak' when the pedal was released after braking (and the car was stationary)
The pads were not worn down to the metal (though they were close), and the rotors are in pretty reasonable condition. The car has 107k miles (and has been trouble free)
After the pads were replaced braking action has definitely improved, and at slow speeds the grinding/creak have disappeared. But, if you brake at anything over about 40mph there is a pretty bad noise that sounds very similar to grinding. However, the car brakes in a straight line. I have double checked that I put the pads in correctly.
The ball joints seems ok (I've tried levering them with a prybar, and cannot see any movement. I strongly suspect that there is a bush failed somewhere, and the improved braking is now causing a vibration -but I was wondering if anyone else had seen similar symptons, and could help me narrow it down.
Thanks in advance
Steve
#3
Thanks - that's not something I'd considered. Did you have them changed, and did it fix it?
I'm also wondering if it's the rear lower control arm bush - unfortunately my wife is away with the car this week, but looking online it seems that is a fairly common problem with the Outlander.
-Steve
I'm also wondering if it's the rear lower control arm bush - unfortunately my wife is away with the car this week, but looking online it seems that is a fairly common problem with the Outlander.
-Steve
#5
Thanks - I'll take a look at those as well once she gets back with the car.
Also; whatever the problem is I'll post details back here once it's fixed.
-Steve
Also; whatever the problem is I'll post details back here once it's fixed.
-Steve
#7
a) when did this come in??
b) that's what happens when you machine parts with no tolerance for wear, to save on production costs!
again. lol@ new cars.
#8
That said, it wouldn't surprise me if dealers recommend changing the rotors with the pads...
-Steve
#9
I only pad slap for brakes. rotors are still in good shape, only a little bit of hard spots causing some pulsing in the pedal.
I've had a creak up front since 65k miles. first thought it was ball joints, but extra greasing, front end alignments, and time have ruled that out. now I'm thinking it has something to do with the strut bearing. Struts are working fine for now, so no reason to change them out to see if that is the real cause.
I've had a creak up front since 65k miles. first thought it was ball joints, but extra greasing, front end alignments, and time have ruled that out. now I'm thinking it has something to do with the strut bearing. Struts are working fine for now, so no reason to change them out to see if that is the real cause.
#10
After several experiences with rotor warp which would noticeably shudder when brakes were applied hard. I always replace rotors when i do brake pads now, i've never had an issue with noise or shudder ever since on any of my cars. And with as cheap as rotors are these days $30-$40 a peice, i don't see a reason not to. I think in order to save weight and cost and for braking performance, manufacturers aren't over building rotors like they used to. They wear fairly thin right when the pads start to get low, they have it down to a science. You shouldn't just check them visually, you should use a measuring caliper to measure their thickness and make sure you have thickness left for wear.
The last two times i was doing brakes for people, we tried to have the rotors machined, but they were right at the thickness tolerance for being considered acceptable. It was a single mother friend of ours which didn't have the extra money for new rotors, so we helped out a little and paid the difference for new rotors. It wasn't much, but it's worth it for reliable brakes. It's probably the most direct vehicular asset connected to saving your life, don't cheap out if you have the money.
The last two times i was doing brakes for people, we tried to have the rotors machined, but they were right at the thickness tolerance for being considered acceptable. It was a single mother friend of ours which didn't have the extra money for new rotors, so we helped out a little and paid the difference for new rotors. It wasn't much, but it's worth it for reliable brakes. It's probably the most direct vehicular asset connected to saving your life, don't cheap out if you have the money.