2007 outlander XLS questions
 

I have a 2007 outy with 34k miles. still under warranty. Does anyone know if my breaks rotors are covered if there slightly warped? i got a wobbling in my steering when i break and i feel the same sensation on the pedal. would anyone know.

Does anyone know or is it best to call the dealer?

Rotors are wear items and are not covered under warranty, especially after 4 years and 34K miles.
They are not warped but most likely pitted from rust giving uneven friction under braking.
Most brake rotors are mad from recycled cast iron and the worst one come from Mexico.
The dealer will be looking for a lot of $$$ so an independent brake shop is a better choice or you can buy your own and spend a few hours doing the swap.
Remember, new pads need to go with the new rotors.

After installation be nice with the brakes as to bed them properly otherwise the pad will glaze and the rotors will polish and not be as efficient.
For bedding procedure just increase brake force slowly over a period of a few days, that will ensure rotors and pad have a good contact patch.

replace rotors when replacing pads, kinda sounds expensive. cant you cut the rotors? they never been cut before and in my other truck i cut them a few times before replacing them.

If not to damaged they might be machinable, but my experience is the thinner they are the faster they die.
In your case the best is to have a brake shop look at them and make you decision at that point.

Corrosion is the worst enemy of brake Rotors. They will rust just sitting in your driveway.

Most of my previous rides (9 of them) needed Front rotors every 18 to 24 months. The last one (a Neon 2000) was very good at 4 years.
My list of cars is as follow:
1 Honda Civic - Japan
2 SAAB - Sweden
1 Ford Taurus - US
1 Dodge Intrepid - US
4 Dodge Neon - US

That's why in my experience rotors and pads are changed at the same time.
That apply to most modern cars and SUV living in the snow belt (Maybe not on heavy duty truck, I never had one)

Also any cars with electronic brake distribution like the Outlander and for that mater my last two Neon will wear the rear brake rotors at the same rate as the Front.

And driving style and location has little influence.
My spirited, heavy late braking, gave the same life as my wife, sensible, city driving. Mine wore down, hers rusted.
(Same life span i.e. 4 years)

If you have a known good flat surface (window pane...steel storm door), you can put the rotor flat on the surface and get an idea if it is warped. If it rocks, it is warped. If warped, they aren't machinable.

Another possibility is a hard spot in the rotor. Sometimes the cast iron is not completely mixed homogenous and you'll get carbon deposits...these spots will not wear as fast as other spots on the rotor...causing a pulsing sensation in the pedal. You can machine this, but as it wears again, you'll feel the pulse again.

For my ranger, if I need new rotors, I might as well get them new instead of machined...they are that cheap. For our Outlanders, I think I'd machine them....they are not as cheap.

If you are replacing pads, you don't need new rotors. You can sand the glaze off and let the new pads put their glaze on. If you think about it, if you need new rotors, you don't exactly need new pads...scuff up the pads to take its glaze off and both surfaces will work together just as well. I will say, if you replace something, it is safest to replace on both sides. I replaced a caliper and rotor on one side. I still brake just fine, but there is a difference side to side....another project for this summer.

thanks for the info, i appreciate it... im going to see if they can be machined first if not then i will get new rotors. any decent brands out there that they wont break the bank?