2008 Rear Shock Help
#1
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hi,
I was into the local dealer this morning for an oil change. They told me my driver-rear shock was leaking and to replace both rear shocks would be $750 + tax. They also asked me if I wanted my cabin air filter replaced for $70![EEK!](https://mitsubishiforum.com/forum/images/smilies/eek.gif)
So the question is - if I have the rear shocks replaced - can I simply replace the shock or should you replace all the boots, strut mounting kit ?
Also - anything special with XLS & 3rd row seating?
As far as the work - do you need to access the interior trim, or can all this be done under the car from the outside? What is the avg time to do this job?
I was into the local dealer this morning for an oil change. They told me my driver-rear shock was leaking and to replace both rear shocks would be $750 + tax. They also asked me if I wanted my cabin air filter replaced for $70
![EEK!](https://mitsubishiforum.com/forum/images/smilies/eek.gif)
So the question is - if I have the rear shocks replaced - can I simply replace the shock or should you replace all the boots, strut mounting kit ?
Also - anything special with XLS & 3rd row seating?
As far as the work - do you need to access the interior trim, or can all this be done under the car from the outside? What is the avg time to do this job?
#2
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I would get up under there and check it out. You would only need to replace the shocks if the bushings and ball joints look good. No need to rebuild the entire suspension.
As far as the in cabin air filter (you didn't ask anything about it but you mentioned it so I thought I would add) is a simple job.
Open the lower glove box, disconnect the small shock on the side and you should be able to lower the glove box to the floor. The air filter is in the center, inserted into the ducting like a home air filter, there should be rectangular cover with two small screws. Take the cover off and pull the filter out and replace with the same size.
As far as the in cabin air filter (you didn't ask anything about it but you mentioned it so I thought I would add) is a simple job.
Open the lower glove box, disconnect the small shock on the side and you should be able to lower the glove box to the floor. The air filter is in the center, inserted into the ducting like a home air filter, there should be rectangular cover with two small screws. Take the cover off and pull the filter out and replace with the same size.
Last edited by Jayasc; 02-11-2017 at 07:51 PM. Reason: More info
#3
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks.
is there any need for pulling the interior trim to access the strut tower? Just curious how the shock/strut attaches to the frame? I don't think it's fastened to the frame? Just a matter of bolting the shock to the strut and the strut frame has 2 guide pins that seat it into the frame/body? Does that make sense?
Thanks
is there any need for pulling the interior trim to access the strut tower? Just curious how the shock/strut attaches to the frame? I don't think it's fastened to the frame? Just a matter of bolting the shock to the strut and the strut frame has 2 guide pins that seat it into the frame/body? Does that make sense?
Thanks
#4
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I would get up under there and check it out. You would only need to replace the shocks if the bushings and ball joints look good. No need to rebuild the entire suspension.
As far as the in cabin air filter (you didn't ask anything about it but you mentioned it so I thought I would add) is a simple job.
Open the lower glove box, disconnect the small shock on the side and you should be able to lower the glove box to the floor. The air filter is in the center, inserted into the ducting like a home air filter, there should be rectangular cover with two small screws. Take the cover off and pull the filter out and replace with the same size.
As far as the in cabin air filter (you didn't ask anything about it but you mentioned it so I thought I would add) is a simple job.
Open the lower glove box, disconnect the small shock on the side and you should be able to lower the glove box to the floor. The air filter is in the center, inserted into the ducting like a home air filter, there should be rectangular cover with two small screws. Take the cover off and pull the filter out and replace with the same size.
I always do the cabin air filter myself & when I heard 70$ for what amounts to a $20 part and 1 min of work - my BS meter went into high alert on the suspension quote.
My only complaint about Mitsubishi so far is the lack of service options (dealerships or shops that specialize in Mitsubishi) in my area. It seems like all the dealerships in SW Ontario are garbage!! This last service 2 hours for an oil change and tire rotation will have me crossing my 4th Mitsubishi dealership off my list of places to take the Outlander.
#5
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks.
is there any need for pulling the interior trim to access the strut tower? Just curious how the shock/strut attaches to the frame? I don't think it's fastened to the frame? Just a matter of bolting the shock to the strut and the strut frame has 2 guide pins that seat it into the frame/body? Does that make sense?
Thanks
is there any need for pulling the interior trim to access the strut tower? Just curious how the shock/strut attaches to the frame? I don't think it's fastened to the frame? Just a matter of bolting the shock to the strut and the strut frame has 2 guide pins that seat it into the frame/body? Does that make sense?
Thanks
I think the stabilizer link needs to be removed from the lower control arm and then the guide pins for the shock absorber. It shouldn't be too bad since it's not a coil-over-shock setup. And I think I read somewhere the auto-leveling sensor was disconnected, but I think it was because someone was removing all the rear suspension.
#6
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
![](https://s32.postimg.org/rrgh11f9h/IMG_8565.jpg)
![](https://s16.postimg.org/8sg1lkdad/IMG_8566.jpg)
Here are some images from that should help you out.
Numbers in the diagrams are the order in which parts should be removed.
These images are directly out of the service manual, so they're for a complete rear suspension break down and maybe you can skip some steps. Just have to try and see. The first image is the rear height sensor, which needs to be removed prior to taking apart the rear suspension - at least, that's what the service manual states.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post